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Discussion Starter #1
When removing the cylinder head on a 2000 3.0 Di does the complete timing front case have to be removed, if so, does the sump need dropping. Is the crank pulley securing nut left or right hand thread. Will both inlet and exhaust manifold need removing. Any other tips.
 

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07 Black Patrol 3.0 / 04 Grey 3.0 Patrol / 01 3.0 Patrol
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You don't need to drop lower sump or front engine plate! Just the top timing plate is fine. You can do it without taking off intake manifold too. Exhaust manifold can stay on also if you like. You don't need to strip crank pulley either!!
Last time i took the head off a ZD30 engine i just bolted off turbo and undone exhaust down pipe from exhaust manifold and that done it for me. However the EGR pipes are slow and those are the tricky ones to the rear of head and the oil return is slow to get at too on back of head.
 

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Pistons very easy to change... drop lower sump and you can do the lot with the head off! Just saying in the case one was blown! Hope this is not the case and the pistons are ok!

Some people think dropping the lower sump is a big job but the reality with a good impact gun the gearbox is very easy to take out and move back.. obviously easy on a lift and with some decent tools and gearbox stand!

Yes a pig of a job when one hasn't the right gear.

No compression isn't good but could be a number of reasons...could be sticky or burnt valves in the head, (rare) or blown head gasket would do it or as you say piston/rings....

Low compression in the ZD30 is rare though, i have seen these engines with 500000k up running solid compression...bottom ends tough as!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dan before I remove the cam sprocket and chain do the cams need fixing so that they don’t turn. Also is it advisable to remove the cam chain tensioner. ( number 1 cylinder is on compression crank at top dead and timing chain links lined up with sprockets)
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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Best practice it to put on tdc before you start but you can do this on assembly.
Before you assemble it you need to rotate the crank until c & cc line up on the IP and timing gear at tdc. You place the cams in their correct orientation then put the cam chain on. Yes you need to remove the tensioner and guides. Put a small drill bit in the locking hole of the tensioner before you undo the bolts.
I highly recommend that you buy a manual for the car before you pull it apart as you will need to know the tightening order and tensions of each bolt. There are also 3 different length bolts on the front engine cover.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 

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Yes as Skeg said it there well. I didn't think you had any issues regarding timing so i didn't mention it but yes be careful and make sure it's at TDC when timing it back up.

A little trick i learned is you can rotate the cams with the crank every three turns without doing any damage, So when setting the timing you rotate the crank pulley three turns then you can rotate the cams via cam pulley too three turns also.

Been honest i don't lock the scissor gear anymore and i have a pump just out again for a friend as it's impossible to get these marks all aligned up by tirning with timing chain on so i just set the crank first now to TDC (While rotating cams also every three turns like i mentioned) and then when i have the C's lined up on the crank i will rotate the crank back a touch (This is a trick i have leanred) so all pistons are down the bores and you can turn the cams all you like to set the B's and A's up there...then once set up move the crank back the touch to TDC align the marks, put tension back on the Scissor gear, lock it in place and you are good to go!

The reason is if you lock the scissor gear with the crank at TDC but if you need to remove chain etc and gears on top it's impossible to line up the cams or rotate the top portion of the timing while scissor gear is locked.

This is how i do mine now :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Taken the head off. Head is damaged between 3 and 4. The head had previously been repaired and the weld had come out. It has paggered the top of number 4 piston but not holed it. Time to decide whether to fit a reconned head and risk the piston.
 

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Sorry to hear! If no hole on the piston i would go ahead and fit the new head! Depends how bad of course it is and the possibility of it getting worse though. Something you need to decide for yourself. Any pics?
Would you not get a head on ebay a new one? Might be worth it
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Taken the head off. Head is damaged between 3 and 4. The head had previously been repaired and the weld had come out. It has paggered the top of number 4 piston but not holed it. Time to decide whether to fit a reconned head and risk the piston.
Repaired heads are always a risk, over the years I've seen many failures, there are just so many variables in getting a good job done, personaly I would be buying a new head.
 

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That does not look great at all... not sure about the piston either it looks to have taken on quite the damage! It's your call but i think i would pull that piston out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I would just like to thank you for help and advise. Will update later when I've checked the bank balance. I've read somewhere that the 3.0 terrano engine will fit with a couple of mods. This may be an option.
 

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No problem at all! Maybe you could gamble the piston. It's the center of the crown that takes most of the heat but it would be a gambal and you could run the risk of destroying the new head hence why i wouldn't use it...with the expense of the new head you are already up in the dollars so i would say not to use that piston.

Well done BTW with the head removal...good job ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well- decided to risk the piston and managed to source a secondhand cylinder head. (didnt want to put too much money in to it as its a old truck.) Re-shimmed valves. Its running fine so far (no leaks, not pressurizing). Im not sure if the turbo is working as it should. The actuator operates as soon as the engine is started. There is a booming noise from the air filter inlet and if i remove the vacuum pipe from the turbo the booming noise stops. Is this normal? It drives ok
 
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