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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Going to work a couple of weeks ago i had done about an hours driving, got to the other side of Dalby put the foot down and nothing but black smoke (about the same amount as an old Komatsu 630 truck starting). Pulled over and under no load it would rev happily like normal, took off, then went to pass a truck and same thing lost power, black smoke and i watched boost gauge go to 30, it would also constantly fluctuate. Any way got going again this time no hard acceleration. Got to Miles and had to buy maf cleaner and torx bit set( i took the tool box out the day before:headwall:). Clean maf settled boost fluctuations but not the loss of power and smoke.
When at work i checked wiring and some voltages, gave plugs some dialectric grease, test drove all seemed fine apart from higher than normal boost. It's never gets above 16-17psi normally. Drove to Mackay and stopped at lights, green light i take off and probably got to 5kmh, put the foot flat then she would eventually come to life. For some reason the traffic behind me got out of that lane pretty quick;). Got a new maf in Mackay ($350:mad:) just incase, no change but now have a spare.
So i done a few nights drinking and reading the manual, In the end i unplugged the EGR control valve and that cured all those gremlins. So today just done 500k with it disconnected without any dramas, of course the fault code came up but no limp mode or any thing.
So the question is would it have done any damage driving with it disconnected? I have lots of work to do on it this week, ie checking the egr valve and cleaning manifolds etc but it has done 250228k so i would expect their to but some ****e in their.
Anyway just had to get that off my chest and ask the question. So throw some input into this drama if ya can please.
Thanks Beaver
PS I think being able to control boost by watching the gauge saved another blown engine.:iconbana:
 

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i doubt the EGR valve has failed. more likely the MAF has failed or the turbo vanes are stuck/sticking. the high boost means you also have high exhaust back pressure (due to the vanes not opening up) which shoves way to much EGR in causing the black smoke. hence why disconnecting the EGR cured the smoke (lucky enough to unplug it while it was closed).

time to replace the MAF, block the EGR off and fit dawes valve. you may still have to get the turbo looked at.
 

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i doubt the EGR valve has failed. more likely the MAF has failed or the turbo vanes are stuck/sticking. the high boost means you also have high exhaust back pressure (due to the vanes not opening up) which shoves way to much EGR in causing the black smoke. hence why disconnecting the EGR cured the smoke (lucky enough to unplug it while it was closed).

time to replace the MAF, block the EGR off and fit dawes valve. you may still have to get the turbo looked at.
Hi tweak'e, remember that you can see if the turbo vanes are stuck by seeing if the VNT arm gets lowered away from the grub screw when the engine is turned off.

It sounds like whatever the fault condition is, the ECU is not lowering the VNT arm at the usual rpm hence the high boost?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
i doubt the EGR valve has failed. more likely the MAF has failed or the turbo vanes are stuck/sticking. the high boost means you also have high exhaust back pressure (due to the vanes not opening up) which shoves way to much EGR in causing the black smoke. hence why disconnecting the EGR cured the smoke (lucky enough to unplug it while it was closed).

time to replace the MAF, block the EGR off and fit dawes valve. you may still have to get the turbo looked at.

Thanks Tweake, The valve is always closed when engine is off AFAK, it's a step motor and opens according to engine speed/ idle etc. MAF is good and actuator on turbo moves freely. What about turbo control solenoid? I should mention it's the EGR volume control valve not the the actual EGR valve.
Cheers Beaver
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi tweak'e, remember that you can see if the turbo vanes are stuck by seeing if the VNT arm gets lowered away from the grub screw when the engine is turned off.

It sounds like whatever the fault condition is, the ECU is not lowering the VNT arm at the usual rpm hence the high boost?

Hi whitie, Thanks I will check that tomorrow. It also had a split second of what seemed like run when shutting down.
cheers
 

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Thanks Tweake, The valve is always closed when engine is off AFAK, it's a step motor and opens according to engine speed/ idle etc. MAF is good and actuator on turbo moves freely. What about turbo control solenoid? I should mention it's the EGR volume control valve not the the actual EGR valve.
Cheers Beaver
Hi Beaver, I am pretty sure that the EGR volume control valve is the only one that the ZD has :)

It would be very unusual if the turbo control solenoid was faulty, it is more likely that the ECU is telling it to keep the vacuum up to the VNT which is what it would be doing.

Have you checked the error codes?

It also had a split second of what seemed like run when shutting down.
cheers
If you are talking about the engine shaking a bit when shutting down, that is usually the main butterfly in the throttle body not being able to close properly - it has a solenoid that provides it vacuum on shutdown and its actuator arm can have a foreign body stopping the butterfly from closing properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Beaver, I am pretty sure that the EGR volume control valve is the only one that the ZD has :)

It would be very unusual if the turbo control solenoid was faulty, it is more likely that the ECU is telling it to keep the vacuum up to the VNT which is what it would be doing.

Have you checked the error codes?

If you are talking about the engine shaking a bit when shutting down, that is usually the main butterfly in the throttle body not being able to close properly - it has a solenoid that provides it vacuum on shutdown and its actuator arm can have a foreign body stopping the butterfly from closing properly.

Yes right you are whitie, the second EGR valve is for cold area models. So with air cutoff valve not closing why has it gone now that i have unplugged the EGR volume control valve? Could it be a vacum problem? Can you come and fix it for me?:p
Cheers
I will supply beer:iconbana:
 

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Yes right you are whitie, the second EGR valve is for cold area models. So with air cutoff valve not closing why has it gone now that i have unplugged the EGR volume control valve? Could it be a vacum problem? Can you come and fix it for me?:p
Cheers
I will supply beer:iconbana:
Mmmm Beer... I am tempted :p
Me thinks that it is doing a dance because the EGR valve is not fully closed, this lets air into the intake manifold which gives you that symptom.

Block the EGR at the top of the pipe going into the intake manifold and you can plug the connector to the volume control valve again. This should get rid of the MIL and stop the engine from shaking as well :)

Darn, just did myself out of a beer ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mmmm Beer... I am tempted :p
Me thinks that it is doing a dance because the EGR valve is not fully closed, this lets air into the intake manifold which gives you that symptom.

Block the EGR at the top of the pipe going into the intake manifold and you can plug the connector to the volume control valve again. This should get rid of the MIL and stop the engine from shaking as well :)

Darn, just did myself out of a beer ;)
I think your spot on whitie, the little bit of exhaust gas is just recirculating. So the egr is effectivly blocked now it's closed and unplugged, it's a shame it's not just a case bridging some wires and plugging it back in to get rid of the fault code.
Oh well time to put that bit of titanium plate i've been saving for this job to good use eh.
Thanks Whitie and tweakie for your input.
Cheers guys
Beaver
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well i went through the manuals egr valve fault finding process yesterday, got to checking operation of the egr valve and it wasn't moving. Removed it, dismantled, cleaned and a bit of a lube. Tested and was moving albeit a very small amount. So i fitted a blanking plate to manifold and adjusted vnt 3/4 turn.

Test drove, only getting max 10psi boost but still very drivable, no faults on drive. Will have to adjust again today. Inlet manifold didn't look as bad as some with a lot less k's than mine. Lots of oil in turbo passages, so it might be time to ditch the home made catch can.

I ordered ecutalk gauge thingy off peter on Tuesday afternoon and had it just after lunch on Thursday, wow what good service and product.
I was worried my revs were to low at idle but ecutalk says it's spoton at 750rpm:iconbana:.
****** on a side note if ya read this mate can you update my k's in the how many k's post to 250236k's please.

I have my dawes valve in the shed, along with Foxshooters egt gauge (1 year in shed:confused:) so i will be fitting them soon, will see after another vnt adjustment as to how quick i get the dawes on.
Thanks to those that offered advice
Cheers Beaver
 

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Whitie on a side note if ya read this mate can you update my k's in the how many k's post to 250236k's please.
Done, turning the VNT grub too much the first time is quite common (did it myself :)), more must be better right :lol:

:cheers:
 

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Done, turning the VNT grub too much the first time is quite common (did it myself :)), more must be better right :lol:

:cheers:
I sent you an email whitie, did you receive it mate? PM sent mate.
 

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I sent you an email whitie, did you receive it mate? PM sent mate.
Yep, thanks, have replied and looking forward to catching up again :)

:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Done, turning the VNT grub too much the first time is quite common (did it myself :)), more must be better right :lol:

:cheers:
Yeh i went 3/4 first, now back to a 1/4 but still only getting 11psi boost. Whitie with ecutalk on the laptop i'm not getting any action on the fuel cut dial, i checked ecu pin voltages and pin 53 witch is supposed to be .35v is at just over 1v. The other pins the book said to check are good. No fault codes are logging. So just wondering if you get any reading off that dial. Also the inj timing vc, book says 50-70% i'm only getting about 35% at idle, is ecu talk reading it backwards because when i rev it goes lower toward 20% and lift off it goes upto near 100% then settles to 35% again, is this good or bad?
cheers beaver
 

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Yeh i went 3/4 first, now back to a 1/4 but still only getting 11psi boost. Whitie with ecutalk on the laptop i'm not getting any action on the fuel cut dial, i checked ecu pin voltages and pin 53 witch is supposed to be .35v is at just over 1v. The other pins the book said to check are good. No fault codes are logging. So just wondering if you get any reading off that dial. Also the inj timing vc, book says 50-70% i'm only getting about 35% at idle, is ecu talk reading it backwards because when i rev it goes lower toward 20% and lift off it goes upto near 100% then settles to 35% again, is this good or bad?
cheers beaver
Hi Beaver, I am not sure which manual you have but mine shows pin 53 to read around 1v at idle:

53 L/R
Electronic control fuel
injection pump
Engine is running.
Idle speed
Approximately 1.0V

Have a couple of questions for you:
Does the engine still perform well?
Is the VNT control arm hitting the grub stop at idle?
If you have a manual gearbox, what boost will it reach under load to around 2400rpm?

The switches to look out for on the ECUTalk is the %T which tells you the % of vacuum the ECU is sending to the VNT. It usually sits at around 55% from idle to around 2600rpm where it will drop to somewhere in the 20% area.

Also lookout for the AFM readings which should now be around 2V at idle due to blocking the EGR.

I would suggest that you disconnect the -ve off the battery overnight to see if that helps in any way.

Also, I do not have the ECUTalk software on the PC, only the LCD version so I can't help out there much but I think that the INJ Timing is not accurate for the 3ltr diesel anyway - maybe NewKleer can confirm this for us.

Cheers,
Whitie
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Hi Beaver, I am not sure which manual you have but mine shows pin 53 to read around 1v at idle:

53 L/R
Electronic control fuel
injection pump
Engine is running.
Idle speed
Approximately 1.0V

Have a couple of questions for you:
Does the engine still perform well?
Is the VNT control arm hitting the grub stop at idle?
If you have a manual gearbox, what boost will it reach under load to around 2400rpm?

The switches to look out for on the ECUTalk is the %T which tells you the % of vacuum the ECU is sending to the VNT. It usually sits at around 55% from idle to around 2600rpm where it will drop to somewhere in the 20% area.

Also lookout for the AFM readings which should now be around 2V at idle due to blocking the EGR.

I would suggest that you disconnect the -ve off the battery overnight to see if that helps in any way.

Also, I do not have the ECUTalk software on the PC, only the LCD version so I can't help out there much but I think that the INJ Timing is not accurate for the 3ltr diesel anyway - maybe NewKleer can confirm this for us.

Cheers,
Whitie
Thanks Whitie, I see where the confusion has come from, under DTC 0705 trouble shooting the pin values are .35v and under general description they say 1v. So i will run with the 1 table now i think. The car runs fine. VNT sits on stop. T% sits at 41 at idle. AFM is 2.1v at idle.My main concern is with low boost will it heat up too much when under load for a long period like going up a range? Mine is an auto. I might send an email to peter about ecu talk.
Thanks Bevan

PS I just checked through all the DTC codes and end ECM reference values under each, it looks like someone couldn't transcribe very well. The manual i use is the one that used to be on this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well it's all going good again, fitted dawes and needle valves today. Running like a dream.:iconbana:
Thanks for all the help gents.
 

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Well it's all going good again, fitted dawes and needle valves today. Running like a dream.:iconbana:
Thanks for all the help gents.
Great to hear Beaver, I am sure you will enjoy the linear boost and being able to control boost from the cabin (if you installed the needle valve there :))

Cheers,
Whitie
 
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