This be easier, its the one I used and worked great. Need to follow it to the letter and time.

Accelerator Pedal Released Position
Learning
DESCRIPTION
“Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning” is an operation to learn the fully released position of the
accelerator pedal by monitoring the accelerator pedal position sensor output signal. It must be performed
each time harness connector of accelerator pedal position sensor or ECM is disconnected.
OPERATION PROCEDURE
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
DESCRIPTION
“Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning” is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve
by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector
of electric throttle control actuator or ECM is disconnected.
OPERATION PROCEDURE
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
Idle Air Volume Learning
DESCRIPTION
“Idle Air Volume Learning” is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the
specific range. It must be performed under any of the following conditions:
+ Each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced.
+ Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.
PREPARATION
Before performing “Idle Air Volume Learning”, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied.
Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.
+ Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
+ Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 95°C (158 - 203°F)
+ PNP switch: ON
+ Electric load switch: OFF
(Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger)
On vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, set lighting switch to the 1st position to light
only small lamps.
+ Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
+ Vehicle speed: Stopped
+ Transmission: Warmed-up
For models with CONSULT-II, drive vehicle until “FLUID TEMP SE” in “DATA MONITOR” mode of “A/T”
system indicates less than 0.9V.
For A/T models without CONSULT-II, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.
BASIC SERVICE
PROCEDURE TB48DE A/T (WITH EURO-OBD)
EC-31

 

Where is the rest?

 

Forgot this part, my bad.

Without CONSULT-II
NOTE:
+ It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
+ It is impossible to switch the diagnostic mode when an accelerator pedal position sensor circuit
has a malfunction.
1. Perform EC-31, “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform EC-31, “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic “PREPARATION” (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MI stops
blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MI turned ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the
specifications.
ITEM SPECIFICATION
Idle speed 675±50 rpm (in “P” or “N” position)
Ignition timing 10±5° BTDC (in “P” or “N” position)
13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, “Idle Air Volume Learning” will not be
carried out successfully. In this case, find the cause of the incident by referring to the “Diagnostic Procedure”
below.
DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE
If idle air volume learning cannot be performed successfully, proceed as follows:
1. Check that throttle valve is fully closed.
2. Check PCV valve operation.
3. Check that downstream of throttle valve is free from air leakage.
4. When the above three items check out OK, engine component parts and their installation condition
are questionable. Check and eliminate the cause of the incident.
It is useful to perform EC-108, “TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS — SPECIFICATION VALUE”.
5. If any of the following conditions occur after the engine has started, eliminate the cause of the
incident and perform “Idle air volume learning” all over again:
— Engine stalls.
— Erroneous idle.
PBIB0665E
BASIC SERVICE
PROCEDURE TB48DE A/T (WITH EURO-OBD)
Idle Air Volume Learning (Cont’d)
EC-33

 

Thanks mate, yes that's the procedure I've got in the workshop manual, just need to follow it properly, can't help it if I'm uncordinated

 

You busy on Sunday. Can go through it with a cordial or two.

Will ya Clubby be ready?

 

Sunday could be good, get clubbie back tomorrow or Wednesday, and that's been another drama I'll have to fill u in on

 

My 4.8 has developed a rough idle as of late. Fine under load, just a lumpy idle that will drop to almost stalling, then fire back up to about 800rpm before dropping again. 246,000 on the clock. Just had a minor service. Mechanic advanced the timing slightly. Still no improvement. I replaced the 02 sensors myself with Bosch units and had high hopes. Nope. No effect. Was going to try coolant temp sensor next until someone here mentioned battery voltage which made me think...the clock in the Patrol mysteriously started losing time recently. Dead giveaway? Here's hoping. Multimeter out tomorrow and possibly off to pick up a maintenance charger.

EDIT: 14.3v across my battery while running. Picked up a smart charger anyway as we have a few long trips coming up where the fridge will be on 24/7. Hooked it up and it ran for less than 2 hours before indicating a full charge. Ruling out battery as the issue. Timing appears to be almost fully advanced. Will check this later today and possibly try retarding it slightly.

 

skindog

skindog ! what u describe has nothing to do with the problem of this particular thread !and really takes away from the problem we have been trying to solve has any one had any joy with this yet or fixed by the 2 previous solution's of temp sensor or unleaded!cheers all

 

Mines an 04 auto, straight fuel, 120000 on the clock. Was having troubles with the first start of the day, like it was really struggling to get fuel and would stall sometimes (only on first start). Now it's been quite a few months now since I replaced the battery and I have not had one problem since. (Not saying run out an buy an new batt, good charge may do it, just noticed a jump start helped, trial an error) That's running 91 unleaded thru to 98 octane depending on bank balance at the time and the car runs and starts perfect regardless. Maybe I was lucky but hope these couple things help clear up some of the confusion on this thread.

 

gday mate wonder if u could let me know if u solved this problem or not mine exact same cheers buddy todd

 

Back to the top we go.

Well it seems I have managed to fix my GU, changed the MAF and it seems to work as it should now

 

4.8 mate

gday jimmycrackcorn ,4.2 beaut ute ,oilrig ,carwreck,well fellas i to have been trying to solve this and have data scanned and found that for some reason the ecu throwing in heaps of fuel and the 02 sensors are maxed rich and inj times can be as high as 14ms when restarted a few seconds later as with all here runs perfect and injecor times droped to 5,5ms i was about to start dismantleing to look fr leaky inj but it would seem to be a sensor prob just on dead cold start as its the inj times are high meaning thats where the fuels comeing from but why???????????? if anyone has more info or input pls let all here know cheers 4.8 inj lpg !!

 

Hmm.well on cold start it will dump more fuel in, , like a choke on a carbied engine. Im getting pretty annoyed at it now. Im thinking the base idle is too low and it doesn't step the idle rpm quick enough to stop it idling rough.
But my idle hunts a bit as well when cold so perhaps air leak

 

4.8mate

hi oilrig yes they will hunt a little when cold anyway and even ever so slightly when warm as 02 sensors bang frm rich to lean ,if u have an airleak it usualy wont do idle air learn ,mine definitely dosnt have an air leak as ive smoked the intake i realy dont think it will hurt the engine from what i see on data scan but best to switch straight off and back on as then the inj times drop back to 5ms or so so not to flood the engine do you have a data scan ,i also have a wide band 02 guage and it floats .99v to 1.04 ! we all have the same problem here im sure anyone with any more info appreciated ! cheers all!

 

Yeah my rig wont complete idle air learn. Im not sure why but im suspecting air leak

 

solved

ok fellas ur gonna hate this but ive solved the problem as stated long ago on here ,it is in fact the fuel and unleaded is what its designed and mapped to run,there is no self learn for cold start its open loop map set! that simple so when u start runs rough every time turn off restart runs fine as it sees its not running right but cant change the set map value for 1st cold start ,ill still run a bit of premo now and then but will run unleaded simply because? i dont know where all you folks go 4wd ing but in the real bush no premo available !problem solved and explained cheers

 

Yer that would be a good theory if a heap of people weren't running regular unleaded with this problem...

 

ive not seen that ,most wont as stated wont run that crap in thier car ,i didnt believe this for over a year ,and after discussions with tom nissan data scan i came to realize ,SYMPTOM , cold start first of the day runs rough turn off re start perfect !no other symtom car ran perfect otherwise ,this was the initial problem in the post but many chipped in with added problems beside first start cold, things like hunting and wont complete self learn obviously pointing to other problems !ive done my home work and 35yrs qualified mechanic !try a tank give it 10 starts and see perfect every time!cheers 4.8

 

should have listened thanks

 

thanks to heliflyer 73e should have listened !instead of nutting it out for so long to come to the same conclusion !

 

2003 ST-L 180k's auto 4.8 LPG.
Ive owned it for 5 months and I'm loving it, could be better on fuel but hey they are tanks.
It started to get a rough idle the start of this year (2014).
Not wanting to chase it the expensive way I did alot of reading on here, then my exhaust header, (flexy joint ) broke, got that fixed and it got worse, thought about checking the exhaust sensors but figured I'll try yhe MAF SENSOR first.
Bought some crc maf clean, sprayed the hell out of it filled it shook it, let it dry, and gave it a quick spray again.
Let it dry in the sun for 30 minutes, plugged it back in.

Started first turn and now chirps 2nd & 3rd if over half acceleration with 91unl.
Even feels a lot more responsive with lpg.
$20 well spent.

Thanks guys!!

 

Had rough start problems, thought it was strange as it only has 8500ks on the clock.. It was coolant temp sensor. Nissan wanted $117, went to my mates which is manager at Burson, $19. Swapped it over and it starts not even 1 crank over, idles at 1200ish and settles after 20 seconds. It sorta changed the patrol too when I took it for test drive..

Cheers

 

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but im chasing this issue also. Im going to source a timing light tomorrow and check the timing. Also will get some maf cleaner and clean that. Might also try a new temp sensor if I can get one locally. I will also stick the charger on tonight to see of that makes a difference. T

The 4.8 is pretty new to me (2 weeks). It has 360k but was a 1 owner vehicle that had never been off road and always garaged. It had had a new cylinder head installed 20k ago and also a new throttle body.

I can not get the self learn to work no matter what i try. It also seems that the throttle stop screw has been adjusted a few times. Is there a certain way this stop screw should be set?

The patrol is hard to start in the mornings and usually can get it idling after 20 or 30 seconds and 2 or 3 starts. I also did recently fill it with 98 so this may have also contributed as im unsure what the previous owner used to use.

Should also mention that the cam sensor seems to be adjusted quite advance leaving not much adjustment left. And I've also done the PVA mod.

Thanks !