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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im sure this has been on heaps, tried searching but couldnt exactly find what i was after.
i want a 4 inch lift in my 03 GU ute, and after looking into it there is a bucket load of stuff to consider. was going to ring superior but not in their trading hours atm.
im wondering what is essential for a 4 inch lift, and what can be left for later, just thinking of money...
im gonna go the ultra flexi coils....but what shocks suit best that are well testes and reliable, my understanding is 6" shocks are needed for these coils?
will b set up for mainly 4wding, but also touring, which i figured i can always buy a set of heavy duty springs for the rear and just swap them ova.
do i need to change my bump stops?
are panhard rods a must at first?
basically what do i have to have to set up a 4 inch at first to have some fun in the bush...then what can i add later that will help a little or a lot
any help would b great :D
 

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Here's what I have in my 4" lifted GU ute.

Dobinsons 4" coils
EFS Extreme shocks
Superior adjustable panhards front and rear
Superior Drop boxes
Superior 15mm longer heavy duty lower rear control arms
Extended braided brake lines front and rear
Extended swaybar links (if you want it to handle on road)
Superior Drop out cones (not required with flexy coils)
Superior coil retainers (same as above with flexy coils)
Superior adjustable draglink (gets the steering wheel straight)
Proportioning valve extension bracket

I also have a rear spring tower brace and laser cut reinforcement brackets but just haven't got around to fitting them. My GU handles really well on road and I am very pleased with its offroad ability too which for me is mostly touring with a few tougher tracks here and there.

I had a customer who had a 4" Tough Dog lift fitted to his GU ute when he bought it. It only had the coils, shocks, poly caster correction bushes and an extended rear brake line. I have since fitted drop boxes, replaced the poly caster bushes with genuine Nissan slotted bushes, adjustable panhard rods, the longer heavy duty lower rear arms, extended proportioning valve bracket, brake lines and some Superior extended front swaybar links - its a totally different vehicle to drive now, the owner couldn't believe the difference! The diffs are centralised, it doesn't wander all over the road and no more squeaking and banging from the crappy poly bushes or the cheapo swaybar links he had. I reckon spend the money from the start and do it right!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the detail mate, really helps
looks like im up for a bit of coin, which dosnt worry me, dont want anything cheap and wanna do it right form the start!
from what you have, what do u think is compulsry, and what is more of a luxury...for example better driving on road
looking at getting it asap, as soon as i figure out wat gear to run and what brands....i will be ordering it straight away, jsut trying to get as much info as possible
and also how much better is it to run drop boxs on a 4" lift?
 

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In my eyes, i think most of the stuff I have is necessary. There is still plenty I could do e.g. Superflex arms, heavy duty tierod, adjustable rear upper arms etc.

Drop boxes make your Patrol drive better then standard on the road the only downside being a a slight loss of clearance underneath. The only other bolt in option that will give adequate caster correction are dropped radius arms, but expect to pay at least $1k for these.
 

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Ive just done my 4 inch lift, no need for flexy coils imho as extreme droop usually comes with zero traction for that tyre so its really for ramp kings/looks, may as well be in the air

You gain 2 extra inches in droop with the longer shocks but loose 2 inches in up travel or you will bust your shocks (bump stop mod) so at the end of the day, you are getting the same travel as a standard 4' lift but not having to worry about modifying your bump stops. And unless you are running superflex arms up front, you are really wasting time with the flexy setup as the front isnt usually knows for its great articulation anyway. If you run 35's or larger you may need to extend your bump stops anyway so that mod could be suited for you there.

Just my opinion, I researched heaps and was keen at first but saw the downside of having that setup and decided against it

This wheel was touching the ground but had zero traction, so whats the point in it drooping another 2 inches? The last few coils that stop the spring falling out dont really put sprung weight on that side of the diff so this setup vs the flexy setup will have similar amounts of traction

(regular 4'' with sway bar attached)


pic of the other side (surely you dont need any more articulation for regular 4wding?)


Regardless of what setup you choose, you will need

panhards
draglink
dropboxes or superflex/drop radius arms
longer lower trailing arms, being a ute you wont have to worry about scraping the inner guards on up travel
longer brake lines
brake bias bracket
+ coils and shocks
 

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Looks like you have a very nice setup there EagleBay. What are you running in the front?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks EagleBay. wat gear are u running then? brand of shocks coils? and wat did it set u back?
 

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If your just after the basics so you can drive it, you'll need
Coils
Shocks
Panhard rods
Brakelines
Castor correction ( your choice )
And just discconect they swaybars until you save some more cash.
Then its recommended getting
Sway bar extensions
Lower control arms
Adjustable draglink
All for peace of mind.

Running a longer a shock with flexy coils is a good idea, because even with the longer compressed length of the shock your tyres will still hit the the tray and front guards stopping full up travel. The way the flexy coils are designed is to push the wheel down to the ground under flex giving better traction, the set up is far superior to lets a normal 4" coil and a 6 inch shock becausr once the coil has reached its max length its just hanging in the air not pushing the wheels down which isnt what you want.


Contact suspension stuff and chat to them, they know everything you need to know about running flexy coils.
 

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my 4inch kit is gonna cost me 7k.

yep i agree, my 4-5 inch superior lift kit cost about $6500 3 years ago and that was with everything they do upper arms, panhards f&r, shocks, springs, the long arm kit, superflex arms etc etc.

if your going to do it at all, just do it the once and you wont regret it. my only regret was going with the tough dog shocks, pitty they didn't have the SRC shocks out then.

cheers luke
 

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Im running a mixed bag, all bought from a guy that had it fitted to his GU for 6 months for under $2K

Raw shocks, king springs, ironman panhards, unsure of the brand of drop boxes/draglink/trailing arms but they are very good quality.
 

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Looks like you have a very nice setup there EagleBay. What are you running in the front?
Im just running drop boxes, draglink and panhard, raw shocks and steering damper with king springs. Sway bar removed. Handles great
 

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Yeh I'm running the rear swaybar only which I find makes it better on and offroad. I was contemplating putting the front swaybar back on after a trip back from the coast when she was feeling a bit floaty, but I think it was more to do with the mud caked in the back of my rims putting the wheel balance out.
 

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I am basically backing up what has been said.

Essential
Coils
Shocks
Castor correction
brake hoses
panhard rods front and rear
Either upper or lower trailing arms

Strongly Recommended
Rear sway bar link pins
Brake bias bracket, we put in all out kits
Longer bump stops for anything over a 2-3" lift

Recommended
Front sway bar link pins
Drop boxes as an upgrade or new radius arms. Poly bushes eliminate all flex.

Nice to Have
Comp Spec Drag link.
Diff breather hose which we put in all out kits

Make sure you turn around the rear tailshaft.
 

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A longer shock always means more flex in the rear of a Patrol unless a different brand shock is used.
For every 2 inches longer the shock is, the compressed length is an extra inch.
For people with bigger tyres who don't use the full compression of their shock, they pick up a full 2 inches more wheel travel for every 2 inches longer the shock is.

Suspension Stuff Flexy Coils

Rear normal duty Flexy Coils. Designed to suit between no load and 100kg

If you have 3" lift rear flexy coils while running 6" lift shocks. Until the shock is fully extended you have 140lbs spring pressure plus the weight of your tyres, diffs etc which is still quite considerable purchase.
At ride height the normal duty coils have a 270lbs spring rate. When you start to flex it up the spring rate increases to about 330lbs. The reason we have done this is to give more stability in offroad situations without compromising ride comfort. Same occurs when you hit a large bump, the spring rate increases. Made out of 20mm wire. For the spring rate Gurus.
2-6" Normal Duty Rear Flexy Coils starts at 140lbs, 270lbs at ride height, 290 lbs and inch down, 310lbs a further inch down and then 330lbs a further inch down and than it stays at 330lbs.

If you have 100kg to 400kg Flexy Coils the same principles apply. Made out of 21mm wire.
2-6" Heavy Duty rear flexy coils start at 150lbs, 330lbs at ride height, 330lbs an inch down, 400lbs a further inch down and then it stays at 400lbs.

Rear Super heavy duty flexy coils, 400kg + made out of 22mm wire. We did test the spring rate but my supplier wrote it down and I haven't got the data off him yet. I have a set here but have not been put on a vehicle yet so not available until testing occurs. Not many needs springs this heavy though.

Front Flexy Coils. They start at 140lbs, 230lbs at ride height with no winch, an inch down at 270lbs, so if you have a winch they will give you an approx 260lbs spring rate, and they stay at the 270lbs spring rate. This is plenty for the front otherwise you start to reduce your front flex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Make sure you turn around the rear tailshaft.[/QUOTE]

wats the reason for this?

and also what shocks would u reccomend for this lift?

and with upgrading to drop boxes or radius arms, is that a possible later upgrade that wont effect anything else, like i wont have to buy or replace anything else in the future if i switch to one of these later?
 

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You turn the tailshaft around so the skinny bit is above the cross member otherwise your tailshaft will hit the cross member.

In out kit https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/product_info.php?cPath=137_40_70&products_id=1080 we use our Suspension Stuff shocks. Not too firm not to soft. Pefect for a nice ride on the road and can put up with the abuse off road. For those who have heaps of weight we recommend the Tough Dog adjustable shocks or SRC. We are testing other shocks at the moment which give a nicer ride.

The link will explain why you need or might want some of the other stuff also.

You can easily remove drop boxes to fit radius arms and you can even run a single superflex arm with your drop boxes if you want to for an extra $650.
 
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