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nissan patrol gq
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
do i have to buy anything else other than
-f&r panhards
-ext brake lines
-5 degree castor plates
-springs/shocks
??????????????????????
cheers
Blake
 

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there is a few bits you missed out, brake proprtion extension braket, drop boxes/drop arms, adjustible rear lower/upper arms, or at minimum longer lower arms, possible gear box spacer, not 10% sure if there is anything else, why not do some research on kits and see what ones have what in them
 

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there is a few bits you missed out, brake proprtion extension braket, drop boxes/drop arms, adjustible rear lower/upper arms, or at minimum longer lower arms, possible gear box spacer, not 10% sure if there is anything else, why not do some research on kits and see what ones have what in them
bingo! search button is your friend.
 

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Autos are Superior
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do i have to buy anything else other than
-f&r panhards
-ext brake lines
-5 degree castor plates
-springs/shocks
??????????????????????
cheers
Blake
an engineers certificate.
 

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If you are in Qld it is not legal to issue an engineers certificate for over a 2" lift. Qld is on board for the proposed new laws which will change that. We are waiting on Victoria.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
im in nsw, will i be able to get engineers cert for 5''
 

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Hi Guys,

Sorry to hijack this thread...am a new member and can't seem to post a thread??? Anyone I can email to find out why???

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
no worries viper, welcome to patrol4x4 sorry would not have a clue
 

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i like it dirty
nissan patrol
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I got another question to go with this.

Is it better to buy adjustable parts.
Or buy parts made to suit the ride hight.
 

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an engineers certificate.

Who gives a F#$K about an engineers certificate mate...Just cause your a virgin and go to church every sunday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
who?
 

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i like it dirty
nissan patrol
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engineer it....
if you get pulled over
if you get stickered
if the cops an arse hole.
 

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Eric the Vigilante
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Have you considered a 2" suspension lift and a 2" body lift< or if your dead keen on 5" maybe a 3"+2"?
Will result in same guard clearance and a more stable vehicle, also alot cheaper.
 

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Have you considered a 2" suspension lift and a 2" body lift< or if your dead keen on 5" maybe a 3"+2"?
Will result in same guard clearance and a more stable vehicle, also alot cheaper.
and then we go back to the engineers cert. thing!

forgetting legalities because that isn't what he was asking, you do need adj pan hards, you do need to extend brake lines, you do need castor correction and no, i would not use plates. the angle of the radius arms will still make it a bump steering pig, IMHO..

you do not need adjustable rear arms... here we go.... but remember that you need to overfill the diff to keep the pinion in the oil.
i have also spaced the blocks for my brake lines up off the diff housing to overcome brakeline issues.... yes 5" and standard brakelines and yes i'm a cheap skate!
you will also have to flip the rear tail shaft to clear the crossmember.

and yes i know its no-where close to legal but i do 1000k a week in it without any problems so there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
and then we go back to the engineers cert. thing!

forgetting legalities because that isn't what he was asking, you do need adj pan hards, you do need to extend brake lines, you do need castor correction and no, i would not use plates. the angle of the radius arms will still make it a bump steering pig, IMHO..

you do not need adjustable rear arms... here we go.... but remember that you need to overfill the diff to keep the pinion in the oil.
i have also spaced the blocks for my brake lines up off the diff housing to overcome brakeline issues.... yes 5" and standard brakelines and yes i'm a cheap skate!
you will also have to flip the rear tail shaft to clear the crossmember.

and yes i know its no-where close to legal but i do 1000k a week in it without any problems so there.
cheers mate, so i dont need rear adj panhards?
 

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Eric the Vigilante
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Jamestrol: not sure why you quoted me but both the way I suggested and the way you suggested both need engineering if he wants it legal, but for all we know, this rig may never see the road.

IMO a 2"+2" lift will be a more stable and in most cases a more capable vehicle (provided the BL is done correctly)
 

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Eric the Vigilante
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cheers mate, so i dont need rear adj panhards?
Yes, you will need a rear adjustable panhard.

The rear arms he was referring to was the trailing arms. Opinions will vary on this and while most will say longer lowers are better (to lengthen your wheelbase), I have heard from a proven professional that adjustable uppers will make the setup work better and if you need strength for the more vulnerable lowers, get some stronger stock length ones.

I will try to find some info on the Upper/Lower arm debate.
 

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Eric the Vigilante
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Actually, I just did a quick search on this site, and found this post from MudRunnerTD. Explains things well and saves me a tired search of the interwebz.

See i reckon that replacing the lower trailing arms with longer ones IS Mathematically WRONG. IMHO

Here is the logic, you should be able to make your own decision.

What is the purpose of the change??

When you lift a Patrol 4" the rear diff moves forward as the diff goes down in the radius of the travel controlled by the Lower Trailing Arm. So what has altered? Hmmm? Nothing!

Yes the Pinion angle has changed and should be addressed but technically the vehicle is just sitting in a state of Droop off standard suspension setup? Everything has gone down from the chassis by 4 inches but all stays in factory spec position.

The perceived problem is this.

You stand there and look at your car and the rear tyres look too far forward and the thing looks funny right? But that is just an Optical Problem, it looks funny. But its in the right spot. Now stand there and imagine that the car is at Max articulation and the suspension is under maximum compression? The lower standard length trailing arms will place the wheel, via the arc radius, in the EXACT place that it should be in the CENTRE of the guard, as per factory design.

Now standing there looking at the car. If you think that the real problem is that the car looks funny and you need to move the diff back so it looks good to YOU when sitting still. hmmm. OK add 16mm so it looks right, now imagine the full compression again? what happens now? the whole geometry of the suspension is OUT BY 16mm. The rear diff is now 16mm further back than its should be when it is sitting up in the guard in full travel and the back of your tyres are ripping the s h i t out of the back of your guards cause you moved the diff back

The actual problem is that as everything has drooped down when you lifted it you have altered the pinion angle of the rear drive shaft and diff. Because the diff is attached to the car by the trailing arms it has rolled forward as you lifted too and there is "Almost at design limit" of angle at the pinion now because the car is near designed max droop. You need to adjust that angle for sure to somewhere within tolerance.

Let the lower trailing arms (lower Control arms) Control how the rear diff is aligned to the car and the suspension for the full travel of the suspension up and down.

Let adjustable upper arms control how the rear diff is aligned to the drive train, the drive shaft. Adjustable uppers will let you roll the diff back slightly again to correct the pinion angle a little to within tolerance and also take some of the bend out of the rear springs as a bonus.

With this setup you car will be basically at standard Factory geometry specs and that cant be bad.
 
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