[Cognito]

Hi team, its been a while since i've thrown a thread up and its nearly time to get the red girl registered. Some questions might be no brainers and some might be a little ambiguous but any help would be great.

The shorty is not lifted and i wanna run 33s (soon to get a 3inch lift so should be fine after that) but wasn't sure if clearance would be a great issue, remembering that its only to pass a roadworthy thus far, i know they will scrub if taken offroad. The plan is 15x33x12.5 Maxxis Buckshots.

How tollerable are roadworthies with rust, mine has only a little bit, which in saying that is mainly surface and only in patches the size of a 50c coin

The list of things to do at this stage are:
Rear wheel bearings
Rear brakes including slave cylinders
Left hand indicator won't blink (works too well)
New front windscreen
Wheels and Tyres (which I have the wheels)
New rear muffler
Change oils

It currently doesn't have the genuine rear glass window as I can't get hold of one to suit the steel style canopy (if anyone knows of one please message me). I don't see how this could be a problem as I have made a polycarbonate one which uses the gas strutts and the genuine locking system.

These are the wheels



I'll give them one more polish, you can see the difference a sand and paint make.

This is what the old girl looks like now. As you can see the manufactured rear window. Not really like the fiberglass models.

 

[simonc3]

You need more stubbie holders

 

[Cognito]

Yeah, maybe i just betta fill them up!

 

[GQ TANK]

I would not lift it, or put the larger tyres on until after the road worthy. Dont worry about a spare - its not part of a road worthy - but if you do have one it must be road worthy. Make sure that you have a jack.

They may knock you back with the rust, give it a clean and throw some primer on it. ( its what I did)

As long as your rear window is sealing, they should not pick on it. The guy doing the road worthy will probally not notice that it is not orginal.

Check your suspension bushes, seat belts etc, If you seats are damaged though a cover over..

Make sure all the hoses are connected in the motor

The windscreen is the same as a GQ, when I had mine done I also had a new rubber fitted (was an extra $100)

Oil is not part of a road worthy (as long as its not dripping)

 

[neRok]

from what ive been reading on the datsun zed forum, its pretty common for a big thick wad of bog to cover the rust lol

i wouldnt worry about your rear window either, looks good to me.

 

[OutbackMK]

Front end slop (tie rods, "kingpins", steering box slack ) seat belts frayed, lights horn working, wipers, washers oil leaks.
The above are first things checked after tyres and obvious mods that aren't engineered.
Good luck with it!

 

[MQ MAD]

Oil all over stuff ,yeah best if its all cleaned off (helps with looking for leaking issues as well)
All stuff like lights,blinkers ect must be all working
If the front indicator(or back) flashes to fast as apposed to any other its a blown bulb
Opposite to the one thats flashin
(IE if the front flashes fast the rear is blown and vise versa)
Depending where the rust is and who you know ,some inspecters can turn a blind eye
(definately not all)
50c piece holes,just wack some bog in it,and make it look nice
IF in doubt,go down to a RWC place and see if they can give you a blank RWC
That will give you a list of all the things they will check

 

[THE FERRET]

Add to list.
Make sure all door catches work, no rust in floors, no cracks in lenses, mudflaps below centre of wheel, all window winders working, good brakes and good tread, no play in steering, battery secure,washers working,horn etc etc. That's how it is in WA anyway.

Good luck.unkrock:

 

[Cognito]

Cheers guys, I don't fly home from work til wednesday and then have a few days to get it ready before i start my new job so will post up what they picked up on it. I know most the fellas in town so shouldn't be too much a drama, but may as well do it right now and then don't have to worry about it.