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Discussion Starter #1
i have a crd patrol with 285's, 3" lift, steinbauer, 3" exhaust and roof rack and getting 17.4lt per 100km do you guys consider that reasonable fuel consumption? this is just driving to and from work mix of hwy and town. is there any way to bring it down?
 

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Seems a bit high to me. I get around 13-14l/100 with 33s, 2 in lift, barwork all round, roofrack and heaps of heavy stuff.

If you want to improve economy then remove all excess weight go back to standard trim including tyres, suspension, barwork and rail chip.
 

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Glasshouse Bogan #1
nissan patrol gu
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Spoke to a guy the other day he went from a manual to an auto said it used more fuel. They have less torque as well not sure that would matter though.
There is a good thread on this elsewhere on the forum.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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We know from the main CRD fuel eco thread that unlike the DI there is no relative std fuel eco number to target, sure the 285's, lift and roofrack are all negatives (roofrack alone can account for up to 2L/100), but numbers can be all over the place. My old steel ARB was worth 1.5L/100 on my DI.

Here is what was a long standing thread:

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/zd30...crd-bad-fuel-economy-discussion-thread-61827/
 

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Yes it's higher than it should be. For comparison out 2012 auto wagon uses about 12.8 with some highway and around town. It's dead stock though. How are you measuring your consumption ?
 

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Rogue
nissan gu patrol
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I was getting 17.5L/100km from my CRD stock motor manual with 33s, canopy, barwork, etc.

Now after a bigger intercooler, new injectors, swapped 2007 ECU for a 2012, swaped 4.1 diff ratios to 4.3 I'm down to about 15L/100km. Still not great. My DI was getting 9-10L/100km with a similar setup
 

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nissan patrol gu6
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When mine was brand new with 33" muddies lift and front bar i also was getting around 17 on the highway empty. Found my injector trim codes were incorrect after reprogramming them i was seeing about 15l.
Now after all my upgrades i can achieve 16l loaded up to gvm and towing a 1.8-2t camper trailer.

I think that you would be getting the fuel economy you should expect if you drive like i do and have your steinbauer set above half.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i dont thrash it just drive normal and my steinbauer is maxxed out.. how did you find out about your injector trim being out?
 

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You may already know this but with your size tyre your odometer will be reading roughly 10% under so when it says you've done 500 you've actually done closer to 550.
When mine was brand new and totally standard I could get 10-11 on a good smooth highway (around Brissy) run sitting on 100.
****ty roads (up north where I live) would see that go up 1 litre or so.
Added the tyres, lift barwork batteries winch etc etc and now it's about 13-14 as I said before.
The mods definitely do make a difference.
 

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Back your steinbauer off till the 10 o'clock position.
I have some tooling to check what is logged in the ecm.
They are etched on the top of the injectors six letters and or numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i have made the adjustments using a gps for my speed.

will a scan tool tell me what my injector trims are at? i have one at work
 

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We have a 2011 auto crd with steel bullar, stock tyre size and 2 inch lift and we get about 11lph cruising on 100klm/h, but my wife drives it during the week doing the worst possible stop/start driving, stuck at level crossings 5-10 minutes at a time plus school drop off zones, carparks etc and it will easily blow out to 17lph. It uses 16lph to tow our camping trailer fully loaded. We only use BP ultimate or Vortex diesel and find we get sightly better fuel cosumption with BP.
 

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I really do feel sorry for dudes with gu crd that have crap economy! Coupled with poo power it would annoy me massively!
Moral of the story is don't buy a crd if you want an economical diesel!
 
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