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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello fellas, I need your advice

I bought a pair of 3" front springs light duty made by superior engineering and because rears were out of stock I bought two rear springs 3" made by EFS, their reference is NIS-114HL3E.

Mi patrol is a gu y61 IV shorty, they weren't sold sold in Australia.

Now with that setup (SE in front and EFS in back) It is higher in the back than the front for one Inch

I have installed an adjustable panhard, it fixed the toe, and I have installed upper adjustable control arms, drop boxes and a spacer under gear box (11mm box got down) But I still have a lot of vibration in the cardan. I have another 5mm spacer to install but I even red that more than 10mm can destroy the engine mounts.

What should I do, as I hate to see the patrol higher in back and cardan vibration in rear is more expensive to fix in a 4" setup than 3" one.

Someone suggested me to put the front spacers to correct that inch, but the vibration in the cardan is driving me crazy.

What rear springs you suggest to me to leave the patrol in equal measures rear and front and with comfy springs?


I Know that the answer could be, buy the spacer or get superior engineering rear coil, but I red in this forum that 3" SE springs makes 4" inch rear not 3" in the LWB, so in a SWB? and SE shipping over seas is confiscatory so another mistake will be expensive one.

I don't pretend get a heavy nissan patrol, only for touring and comfy patrol is my goal.


My shocks are EFS elite comfort 3"
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
guys...
with less letters.....

are there 3" coils rears comfy lower than EFS NIS-114HL3E ?

Cheers
 

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Hey mate. Another option for you to lower the rear is to take your rear springs to any spring manufacturing workshop and get them reset. I've done that a number of times when experimenting with different coils. It's cheap too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey mate. Another option for you to lower the rear is to take your rear springs to any spring manufacturing workshop and get them reset. I've done that a number of times when experimenting with different coils. It's cheap too.
How is that?
 

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Shorties are always a pain when it comes to spring rates.

I just fitted my shorty with light 3" superior coils front and rear, they handle great! The back end does sit about an inch higher than the front though, but the car had no weigh in it at all, it's completely standard, when I load the rear up with a bit of gear, like to go camping it sits perfect! A rear bar, drawers etc will sort it out good.

You could always swap your rears for some 2" springs, OME or EFS or whatever.

 

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If you spend a bit of time getting your pinion angle right, by adjusting your upper control arms, you should be able to get rid of the vibrations.

You can lower the gearbox more if you want, yes it puts a bit of strain on engine mounts, but in reality it won't make much difference. Big horsepower engines kill engine mounts in a hurry, but that doesn't stop people from strapping a big turbo on,, likewise it shouldn't stop you from lowering your gearbox.

Otherwise, you can just change your rear springs for some SWB springs.
 

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How is that?

They put the coil into the furnace until it glows red then pull it out and compress the spacing between the windings. The net effect is a reduction in overall free length by whatever amount you need. Repaint and refit..the guy I use charges me about AUD$20 a pair. Look for someone that manufactures springs, it used to be a more common practice resetting leaf springs. Same process works for making a spring longer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
They put the coil into the furnace until it glows red then pull it out and compress the spacing between the windings. The net effect is a reduction in overall free length by whatever amount you need. Repaint and refit..the guy I use charges me about AUD$20 a pair. Look for someone that manufactures springs, it used to be a more common practice resetting leaf springs. Same process works for making a spring longer.

Unfortunately I live in Colombia and we dont make any 4x4 springs... I got them from Australia, so... you can do that :idiot:

Today I was playing with upper adjustable control arms and the vibrations were reduced, but they still.

One guy in a 4x4 store told me, try to cut the springs, It is a normal practice for Land Rovers in Colombia, but not thanks.

I had in my another shorty longer lower control arms by +16mm and upper adjustables...

will be that mixing upper adjustable control arms with longer control arms, can it solve the cardan vibration?

What do you thing?
 

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My only experience with vibrations was down to some mug who took to the transfer flange with a hammer. I had them above 90kmh, I carefully filed the flats and around the recess and protrusion mating area and the vibrations became less.
I eventually swapped out the flange for an unmarked one and the vibrations went. The flange was only sitting like half a mm off but the vibration came through the drivelike and into the cab clearly.
Goodluck
 

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Yes, longer lowers will definitely help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I fix the cardan vibrations finally, I just drop the EFS NIS-114HL3E for dobinson C45-189 rear coils.

The EFS are huge compared with the dobinson, and they give almost 4" rear lift (EFS 89 left side and 90cms rigth side in rear, 85.5 and 86 with Dobinsons in the same spot) , very good for LWB but a nigthmare for GU swb
My shorty now looks better and drives so much better now.

I have to sell the efs...

Thank you guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have to say that Yes longer lowers control arms worked better fixing the vibrations in my shorty that upper adjustable control arms

My advice is ...get longer control arms 16mm+ first in a GU or GQ with 3" lift.

and... the bushes from upper adjustable control arms getting worm fast with more than 3" lift, because the rear axle movement.
 
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