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Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
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Discussion Starter #1
Have read lot of good info in support of Radius Fab LS1 panel airbox and 4" SS snorkel with ram head. Considering to purchase.

Interested getting some feedback from the forum on the fit & function of Radius panel airbox in the GUIV CRD.

Firstly, have read several positive threads where the Radius Fab LS1 have been installed to run with td42 and noted various comments on the forum re: air box design characteristics and positive reference to the panel air box design.

Looking for best flow to suit my CRD build and running at higher end boost: Procharge stage 3 H/F (reworked Garrett M24), JT cooler (top mount) similar to CC ultimate, Max boost 26psi. Have aux battery (ARB tray) located next to air box.

Currently run Fabwitz rnd Airbox "similar to stock box profile"(K&N cylindrical filter), 3"induction to turbo & safari snorkel. Getting good pwr but want to improve flow..
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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The Radius Fab airbox is certainly up there with the best of them. Its also a local product made 5km from me. Build quality is high. You will need to relocate the 2nd battery if its under the bonnet.
His snorkle ideas have pretty well been copied by most fabricators out there. First to french the tube into the guard and still the best IMO. It's still top of my list of things to appear on my GU before the Lorella Springs trip.

I like shiny stuff
 

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Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah mate, I have inquired via their web site and FB but no reply at this stage. Can you get away with just moving the aux battery back closer to firewall a bit or out all together for the panel config?

What do you think of the pod box or persist with panel?
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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You can move the battery towards the firewall in order to fit it easy enough. Several members here have done exactly that. It'saford did a bit of a writeup on doing it in his build thread.
If you are chasing power. The Radius airbox will outperform any of the round filters on the market. Its also on my list but unfortunately there are other mods with higher priorities atm. My modified factory airbox with the 4" inlet, modified outlet and K&N filter element flows well enough for the time being.

I like shiny stuff
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the battery advice. The pwr that I am getting is good, primary reason for more flow is to improve torque performance.

Could improve the inlet entry profile to the Fabwitz airbox and do a 4" snorkel, but think a better option is to invest in a proven solution and sell the Fabwitz air box and piping(total works), including the hot/cold side piping(stock cooler) that I do not use anyway. Corey's kit is good but with the larger flow turbo, running higher boost, Harley suggested to consider more flow and that is where I am at with Radius Fab...
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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Corey's airbox flows a hell of a lot better than stock but it has its limitations being round. Airbox to turbo is sweet. I'll be over his place in a few weeks designing and making new intercooler pipework as im not a fan of reverse flow on the Di. Airbox has to wait until after the new turbo goes on as I simply don't have the time to do it until after xmas. (Already moved some stuff to allow battery to move a couple of inches.)

I like shiny stuff
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Comparatively speaking I found that Corey's box/pipework did so well with remap, stock turbo, Adrad cooler(stock size). But now with H/F turbo and larger IC, I want to look at less restrictive airbox/induction. May use Corey's airbox to turbo pipework, not sure how Radius Fab accommodate the MAF sensor and also have it fitting up well with JT fin&tube cooler.

Now with the JT cooler and sorted out the resonance noise. I was going to get Harley to do a tune and then he suggested maybe more flow first. If Harley was closer I would put it on the rollers with Corey induction to see how it runs. But $200 fuel plus dyno cost, prefer to put that towards upgrade.

Info EGTs (test hill)-4th gear nom boost 20psi with Corey's induction box/pipework/safari snorkel.
Remap/Adrad (stock size IC) and OEM stock turbo/induction 575DegC
Remap/Adrad (stock size IC) and Procharge stage 3 turbo 525DegC
Remap/JT cooler and Procharge stage 3 turbo 425DegC
(currently getting approx 200HP/378N-m)
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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You should only need a short silicone joiner between Corey's intake pipe and the flange on the Radius airbox. Rough guess says it will fit. Worst case will involve cutting a couple of inches off at the start of the intake pipe before the MAF.

I like shiny stuff
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You can move the battery towards the firewall in order to fit it easy enough. Several members here have done exactly that. It'saford did a bit of a writeup on doing it in his build thread.


I like shiny stuff
Craig, can U send a link of It'saford build thread, or how I go about it? Thanks
 

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@skegbudley



Revisiting this Skegs and JT. Looking to pull the pin on an A/B and really not wanting a pod-in-a-box solution.

Has anyone gone for a Radius on a ZD30 yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
@Marko_SJ - For Info

I ended up going with a 9" pod K&N in airbox made by a boiler maker Ben Lipscombe(thru ZD warriors_ FB), draws very well. $340 (box only)+postage. Had to mod to the radiator plastic shroud-15mm cut away(easy done), with body saw.
Box is 4" thru x 340mm long(build to suit TD42) but used for my CRD/GU as gave me 50-60mm clearance to base of pod. Ben can supply either 3 or 4" for inlet / outlet.

Connected up to to turbo with Fabwitz Industries 3" pipe(MAF sensor port in pipe).
I use Fabwitz 4" SS fwd facing snorkel w/ air ram + have Procharge stage 3 h/f turbo (136kW/512N-m). Set up performs well. Would have liked to run with the orig 3" Safari snorkel to have comparo result but rushed thru.

Something to consider.
Pics:
 

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@Marko_SJ - For Info

I ended up going with a 9" pod K&N in airbox made by a boiler maker Ben Lipscombe(thru ZD warriors_ FB), draws very well. $340 (box only)+postage. Had to mod to the radiator plastic shroud-15mm cut away(easy done), with body saw.
Box is 4" thru x 340mm long(build to suit TD42) but used for my CRD/GU as gave me 50-60mm clearance to base of pod. Ben can supply either 3 or 4" for inlet / outlet.

Connected up to to turbo with Fabwitz Industries 3" pipe(MAF sensor port in pipe).
I use Fabwitz 4" SS fwd facing snorkel w/ air ram + have Procharge stage 3 h/f turbo (136kW/512N-m). Set up performs well. Would have liked to run with the orig 3" Safari snorkel to have comparo result but rushed thru.

Something to consider.
Pics:
Thanks. Your setup looks good and I bet it spools hard now. I am still on the stock intake setup on a stock airbox with the MAF screens removed. I can see big bennies to going to Corey's intake setup before I go further. That's a nice bit of gear.

Even with the stock A/B the aftermarket turbo flanges and pipework have waaaaay more physical volume and less flow restriction so I think that will get my $$$ for now.

Dumb question, but how does one contact Fabwitz to order parts on Facebook?

Edit: did that Jonny Tig cooler come rubber bushed? If so, enough reason to order one over CC. I ended up grommetting the bolts on the cooler and where the frame met the cowling in front of the dash.
way quieter now but not happy I had to do that after paying 2.5K for the best.
 

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Thanks. Your setup looks good and I bet it spools hard now. I am still on the stock intake setup on a stock airbox with the MAF screens removed. I can see big bennies to going to Corey's intake setup before I go further. That's a nice bit of gear.

Even with the stock A/B the aftermarket turbo flanges and pipework have waaaaay more physical volume and less flow restriction so I think that will get my $$$ for now.

Dumb question, but how does one contact Fabwitz to order parts on Facebook?

Edit: did that Jonny Tig cooler come rubber bushed? If so, enough reason to order one over CC. I ended up grommetting the bolts on the cooler and where the frame met the cowling in front of the dash.
way quieter now but not happy I had to do that after paying 2.5K for the best.
Does spool well, no dosing(comp surge) just song when gear changing from high RPM.
Gets into it under high load but as mentioned, would have liked to have run new 9" pod air box(4" thru) with orig 3"safari.

With window up, mainly only hear air rushing thru cooler. Did fit Mackay rubber cushion isolators myself, between cooler and mounting frame (good result).

The Procharge H/F turbo does push a nom 30% higher air flow than stock turbo.

Induction_I started off with Fabwitz complete works (eg: airbox / 3" pipe to turbo then looking for more low down torque performance. IMO, needed to further reduce the vac adverse effects from induction before turbo. Was lucky that Corey (Fabwitz) was prepared to trade in some orig pipework / airbox for new 3" pipe from airbox to turbo and 4" SS recessed snorkel. Corey made me up 3" SS pipe from airbox to turbo (straight section with 90 Deg bend for turbo inlet), has with MAF sensor port, air pick up port and PCV / CC return(faces away from eng-good access/my request). Maybe you could mock up pipe (box to turbo) utilizing existing stock MAF section & 90Deg bends etc (pic attached).

Think about the 9" pod style airbox from Ben Lipscombe(thru ZD warriors_ FB) with 4" outlet and 3" inlet to hook up std snorkel(no need then to open guard thru access holes to 5" to suit 4" snorkel (size up to you). With stock turbo 3" inlet should be adequate size. Box does flow well and has 50-60mm clearance to base of pod filter.

Sit back work out costs as it best to save a bit longer and get what you really want.

Dumb question, but how does one contact Fabwitz to order parts on Facebook?
Fabwitz Industries FB page:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/460958234258639/?ref=bookmarks

did that Jonny Tig cooler come rubber bushed? If so, enough reason to order one over CC. I ended up grommetting the bolts on the cooler and where the frame met the cowling in front of the dash.
way quieter now but not happy I had to do that after paying 2.5K for the best.
As above, sorted cooler noise myself using Mackay rubber cushion isolators and placed thin rubber pads under frame mount points (firewall and front radiator spt member). The turbulence noise from fin & tube core was "jet like" but now good. Jonny Tig (owner) use to work for CC (early design days) and went out on his own (nice work). Very similar build between two coolers but JT cooler approx $1900 (incl scoop).

Edit-Your CC is that the larger(Ultimate)?
 

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@JT54

I replied to you last night but it seems it's not here.

Long story short will have a bit of a think about it and the way I'm thinking of proceeding is to order the same setup you have from Corey and possibly a Ben Lipscombe airbox (that price looks very reasonable compared to others) as I am planning on the eclipse turbo plus an ECPT remap down the track.

My intercooler is the large (ultimate). If I could have my choice again I'd probably do front mount. There's nothing more in the way than these big top mounts IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
@Marko_SJ

Combination of Corey's pipework (airbox to turbo) and Ben's air box is good IMO. Pic attached of my 3"pipe from box to turbo. Note the side I had ports fitted to provide for improved access. You can PM me later on and we can exchange contact details (may help ordering stuff). Pic also of setup with CC ultimate for info.

Ben's makes his airbox for TD42(330mm long) and for CRD(300mm) long. I was looking for max clearance from box internal inlet end face to base of pod filter for max flow/reduced turbulence. Ben made the 330mm length for me, he did a prototype trial fit up at his end box and then sent it down to me.
All good and provides 50-60mm pod clearance(great).
Need to buy K&N pod filter: KNRE-0870.

Need to cut a approx 15mm off radiator shroud (at the cut out section adjacent to filter box), to allow the box to move closer towards radiator. Has not had negative impact on ECT or A/C operation. The box has two mount points, I used only one (same as Ben does on TD42). I only used Aux battery fix point and it pulls up and sits well with silicons connected. The box has a water drain "Donaldson vactuator valve" and box is installed so front is lifted slightly.

If you intend to use a 4"snorkel, maybe first, you can open the inner guard thru holes to 5" dia and use 4-3" 90deg bend to hook up to 3" plastic snorkel (if currently fitted). Should draw fine and produce much less noise. I have the 4" SS fwd facing/safari air ram. I made up some wooden disc inserts for a 5" hole saw and a jig to cut the inner guard thru entry holes.

Maybe I will start up a DIY thread including posts from 15 Mar 19,
or Ross @geeyoutoo may change title of this thread to make reference to and or including "Airbox with 9" K&N pod filter"?

With large TMIC _ CC ultimate or JT (Tube&Fin)) gets tight and is a bit noisy especially with h/f turbo running at higher boost and larger induction set up. Wind the widow up:cool:.

Great if you did the same induction set up and both having ECPT remap. Postal works well to start off with.
This would provide a great opportunity for a CRD comparison using two different turbo builds (Procharge Stage 3 and Eclipse). Driveability can be subjective but result would be interesting.
 

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Maybe I will start up a DIY thread including posts from 15 Mar 19,
or Ross @geeyoutoo may change title of this thread to make reference to and or including "Airbox with 9" K&N pod filter"?
Done.
 

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I bought one of these box's from Ben, cost me $375 delivered plus about $90 for the K&N pod. Never fitted it and now decided on a panel box where the battery normally goes so may be selling this one now
 

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@JT54

Attempting to order a Radius Fab panel filter A/B after all after talking with Richie today over the phone. Will fall back to these other options like you've got if it doesn't go through.

Will probably connect it with a Fabwitz intake setup (I'll need the turbo flange at the least)

I just like the idea I can pull out a filter and replace it. I dont want to be cleaning and oiling more air filters (I have 4 dirtbikes in various stages of build and a scooter - I hate that job!)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The LS1 would be a good option for sure. Available space was an issue for me re: shift aux battery and the rest.
Have two pod filters, so change over is quick and easy - wash out leave to dry/oil and ready for next change. IMO, prefer to have an easy visual of filter element.
 
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