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Airbox With 9" K&N Pod Filter

21K views 134 replies 19 participants last post by  TEALZ 
#1 ·
Have read lot of good info in support of Radius Fab LS1 panel airbox and 4" SS snorkel with ram head. Considering to purchase.

Interested getting some feedback from the forum on the fit & function of Radius panel airbox in the GUIV CRD.

Firstly, have read several positive threads where the Radius Fab LS1 have been installed to run with td42 and noted various comments on the forum re: air box design characteristics and positive reference to the panel air box design.

Looking for best flow to suit my CRD build and running at higher end boost: Procharge stage 3 H/F (reworked Garrett M24), JT cooler (top mount) similar to CC ultimate, Max boost 26psi. Have aux battery (ARB tray) located next to air box.

Currently run Fabwitz rnd Airbox "similar to stock box profile"(K&N cylindrical filter), 3"induction to turbo & safari snorkel. Getting good pwr but want to improve flow..
 
#2 ·
The Radius Fab airbox is certainly up there with the best of them. Its also a local product made 5km from me. Build quality is high. You will need to relocate the 2nd battery if its under the bonnet.
His snorkle ideas have pretty well been copied by most fabricators out there. First to french the tube into the guard and still the best IMO. It's still top of my list of things to appear on my GU before the Lorella Springs trip.

I like shiny stuff
 
#3 ·
Yeah mate, I have inquired via their web site and FB but no reply at this stage. Can you get away with just moving the aux battery back closer to firewall a bit or out all together for the panel config?

What do you think of the pod box or persist with panel?
 
#4 ·
You can move the battery towards the firewall in order to fit it easy enough. Several members here have done exactly that. It'saford did a bit of a writeup on doing it in his build thread.
If you are chasing power. The Radius airbox will outperform any of the round filters on the market. Its also on my list but unfortunately there are other mods with higher priorities atm. My modified factory airbox with the 4" inlet, modified outlet and K&N filter element flows well enough for the time being.

I like shiny stuff
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the battery advice. The pwr that I am getting is good, primary reason for more flow is to improve torque performance.

Could improve the inlet entry profile to the Fabwitz airbox and do a 4" snorkel, but think a better option is to invest in a proven solution and sell the Fabwitz air box and piping(total works), including the hot/cold side piping(stock cooler) that I do not use anyway. Corey's kit is good but with the larger flow turbo, running higher boost, Harley suggested to consider more flow and that is where I am at with Radius Fab...
 
#6 ·
Corey's airbox flows a hell of a lot better than stock but it has its limitations being round. Airbox to turbo is sweet. I'll be over his place in a few weeks designing and making new intercooler pipework as im not a fan of reverse flow on the Di. Airbox has to wait until after the new turbo goes on as I simply don't have the time to do it until after xmas. (Already moved some stuff to allow battery to move a couple of inches.)

I like shiny stuff
 
#7 ·
Comparatively speaking I found that Corey's box/pipework did so well with remap, stock turbo, Adrad cooler(stock size). But now with H/F turbo and larger IC, I want to look at less restrictive airbox/induction. May use Corey's airbox to turbo pipework, not sure how Radius Fab accommodate the MAF sensor and also have it fitting up well with JT fin&tube cooler.

Now with the JT cooler and sorted out the resonance noise. I was going to get Harley to do a tune and then he suggested maybe more flow first. If Harley was closer I would put it on the rollers with Corey induction to see how it runs. But $200 fuel plus dyno cost, prefer to put that towards upgrade.

Info EGTs (test hill)-4th gear nom boost 20psi with Corey's induction box/pipework/safari snorkel.
Remap/Adrad (stock size IC) and OEM stock turbo/induction 575DegC
Remap/Adrad (stock size IC) and Procharge stage 3 turbo 525DegC
Remap/JT cooler and Procharge stage 3 turbo 425DegC
(currently getting approx 200HP/378N-m)
 
#8 ·
You should only need a short silicone joiner between Corey's intake pipe and the flange on the Radius airbox. Rough guess says it will fit. Worst case will involve cutting a couple of inches off at the start of the intake pipe before the MAF.

I like shiny stuff
 
#12 ·
@Marko_SJ - For Info

I ended up going with a 9" pod K&N in airbox made by a boiler maker Ben Lipscombe(thru ZD warriors_ FB), draws very well. $340 (box only)+postage. Had to mod to the radiator plastic shroud-15mm cut away(easy done), with body saw.
Box is 4" thru x 340mm long(build to suit TD42) but used for my CRD/GU as gave me 50-60mm clearance to base of pod. Ben can supply either 3 or 4" for inlet / outlet.

Connected up to to turbo with Fabwitz Industries 3" pipe(MAF sensor port in pipe).
I use Fabwitz 4" SS fwd facing snorkel w/ air ram + have Procharge stage 3 h/f turbo (136kW/512N-m). Set up performs well. Would have liked to run with the orig 3" Safari snorkel to have comparo result but rushed thru.

Something to consider.
Pics:
 

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#13 ·
Thanks. Your setup looks good and I bet it spools hard now. I am still on the stock intake setup on a stock airbox with the MAF screens removed. I can see big bennies to going to Corey's intake setup before I go further. That's a nice bit of gear.

Even with the stock A/B the aftermarket turbo flanges and pipework have waaaaay more physical volume and less flow restriction so I think that will get my $$$ for now.

Dumb question, but how does one contact Fabwitz to order parts on Facebook?

Edit: did that Jonny Tig cooler come rubber bushed? If so, enough reason to order one over CC. I ended up grommetting the bolts on the cooler and where the frame met the cowling in front of the dash.
way quieter now but not happy I had to do that after paying 2.5K for the best.
 
#15 ·
@JT54

I replied to you last night but it seems it's not here.

Long story short will have a bit of a think about it and the way I'm thinking of proceeding is to order the same setup you have from Corey and possibly a Ben Lipscombe airbox (that price looks very reasonable compared to others) as I am planning on the eclipse turbo plus an ECPT remap down the track.

My intercooler is the large (ultimate). If I could have my choice again I'd probably do front mount. There's nothing more in the way than these big top mounts IMO.
 
#16 ·
@Marko_SJ

Combination of Corey's pipework (airbox to turbo) and Ben's air box is good IMO. Pic attached of my 3"pipe from box to turbo. Note the side I had ports fitted to provide for improved access. You can PM me later on and we can exchange contact details (may help ordering stuff). Pic also of setup with CC ultimate for info.

Ben's makes his airbox for TD42(330mm long) and for CRD(300mm) long. I was looking for max clearance from box internal inlet end face to base of pod filter for max flow/reduced turbulence. Ben made the 330mm length for me, he did a prototype trial fit up at his end box and then sent it down to me.
All good and provides 50-60mm pod clearance(great).
Need to buy K&N pod filter: KNRE-0870.

Need to cut a approx 15mm off radiator shroud (at the cut out section adjacent to filter box), to allow the box to move closer towards radiator. Has not had negative impact on ECT or A/C operation. The box has two mount points, I used only one (same as Ben does on TD42). I only used Aux battery fix point and it pulls up and sits well with silicons connected. The box has a water drain "Donaldson vactuator valve" and box is installed so front is lifted slightly.

If you intend to use a 4"snorkel, maybe first, you can open the inner guard thru holes to 5" dia and use 4-3" 90deg bend to hook up to 3" plastic snorkel (if currently fitted). Should draw fine and produce much less noise. I have the 4" SS fwd facing/safari air ram. I made up some wooden disc inserts for a 5" hole saw and a jig to cut the inner guard thru entry holes.

Maybe I will start up a DIY thread including posts from 15 Mar 19,
or Ross @geeyoutoo may change title of this thread to make reference to and or including "Airbox with 9" K&N pod filter"?

With large TMIC _ CC ultimate or JT (Tube&Fin)) gets tight and is a bit noisy especially with h/f turbo running at higher boost and larger induction set up. Wind the widow up:cool:.

Great if you did the same induction set up and both having ECPT remap. Postal works well to start off with.
This would provide a great opportunity for a CRD comparison using two different turbo builds (Procharge Stage 3 and Eclipse). Driveability can be subjective but result would be interesting.
 

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#17 ·
Maybe I will start up a DIY thread including posts from 15 Mar 19,
or Ross @geeyoutoo may change title of this thread to make reference to and or including "Airbox with 9" K&N pod filter"?
Done.
 
#21 ·
What would you be chasing for it?

Not sure what's happening with the LS A/B. I've spoken to him over the phone a few times now and he reckons he's got my name an order there but I havent heard since last Thursday.

If I end up with a modded ZD Box, A Rad and a Pod A/B so be it... they can be tested against each other.


Ta.
 
#19 ·
@JT54

Attempting to order a Radius Fab panel filter A/B after all after talking with Richie today over the phone. Will fall back to these other options like you've got if it doesn't go through.

Will probably connect it with a Fabwitz intake setup (I'll need the turbo flange at the least)

I just like the idea I can pull out a filter and replace it. I dont want to be cleaning and oiling more air filters (I have 4 dirtbikes in various stages of build and a scooter - I hate that job!)
 
#20 ·
The LS1 would be a good option for sure. Available space was an issue for me re: shift aux battery and the rest.
Have two pod filters, so change over is quick and easy - wash out leave to dry/oil and ready for next change. IMO, prefer to have an easy visual of filter element.
 
#29 ·
Disregard my previous post... Have had a chat with Fabwitz, Ben Lipscombe and Fatz fabrication.

Ben does not make an intake, rather he provides a list of parts needed to use the standard MAF housing. Basically a few silicone reducers and joiners.

JT54, fabwitz tells me your intake pipe was a custom order. 3" all the way and will match up to his 2.5" turbo inlet.

Fatz Fab (Not to be confused with Fabwitz) do a total package. Very similar looking airbox to Ben Lipscombe and a custom intake pipe including 3" MAF housing that matches up to the standard turbo inlet.

I may end up patch-working a setup together from all 3 of them...
 
#33 ·
@jackbyo apologize for not picking up on your questions as only saw it today.
The forum does not allow me to access my account as @JT54 and hence am not notified of subject posts via email or alerts:mad:

Had to create new account @Bidja which is who I now am:oops:. Strange though, I remain to get "trending post notification" in my email inbox, but guess that is a locally generated advice @geeyoutoo

As you read, I used the 340mm long pod box (TD42 build)_4" thru spigots from Ben for my 08 CRD and needed to cut away some of the radiator plastic cowl for fit (air panel saw was my friend for the box and 4" snorkel install). CRD specific box is 300mm long. The 340mm gave me approx 40-50mm clearance from box bottom face to K&N pod base . Yeah Fatz Fabrication do a similar box, their lid is clear which would provide improved visibility of filter, recon Ben could make similar as his box lid as his has a dark tint (still fine for me).

Had Fabwitz (Corey) make up a custom 3" SS pipe from airbox to turbo for my install and had the MAF port placed on the Aux battery side for ease of access.
If, had my time again would have used a 4-3" x 90° silicon from air box into the cut down stock MAF housing, then silicon/joiners_SS straights to the turbo silicon reducer bend(3-2.5"). The stainless pipe is a big heat soak, so I wrapped that with exhaust wrap and used a wet suit sleeve and gold reflective tape over all. Did similar with air box_covered alloy box with weighted vinyl and over that covered with heat reflective foil backed with butyl rubber and made up a removable heat reflective flat pad which sits on top of filter box lid. Must help to reduce air intake temp and induction noise.

Automotive exterior Bumper Metal
Vehicle Auto part Engine Car Fuel line
 
#35 · (Edited)
Stock MAF housing section has an internal dia at port of 70mm and the ID of 76mm (3") SS pipe is 73mm _ IMO, consider that the restriction in flow would be very minimal (no mesh retained of course). Compare all up costs.

Using the stock MAF section, the airbox side of MAF port provides a good fit for a 76mm silicon joiner (eg: use the 4"-3" x 90° bend), U need to trial the ability of a silicon joiner to clamp firm down on turbo side of the MAF port section (has smaller OD) post removal of flange.

When I installed my pod airbox (4" thru), had a 600x300mm Jonny Tig TMIC fitted and the room only allowed for the 3" piping. Have a front mount cooler installed now and if this was in earlier would have considered 4" piping to the turbo.

I run louvers on the bonnet (600x300mm cut out) in lieu of a scoop that allows for heat to escape from engine bay and the hot air flow out is significant. Did not measure induction air temp differentials but the non lagged SS piping (hot side of cooler and from airbox) got real hot to touch and with lagging has reduced induction noise.

Bumper Pipe Automotive exterior Auto part
 
#38 ·
Bidja,
Considering you have the Fabwitz setup, would you be interested in parting with your MAF housing and possibly airbox too?

I've been trying to find spares to attack with power tools but the wreckers up here are giving me the run around.
 
#41 ·
@OldMav stated in a post, that I read some time ago, that a pod type filter box is best to provide at least a 30mm clearance from the box internal inlet face to pod base.

ie _ as mentioned in your build thread), IMO the 55mm base clearance to 9" K&N pod filter base as provided with Ben Lipscombe 330mm long airbox is fine (up to you). With the profile of the box and the way that debris is collected uniformly over pod appears to work well(with h/f turbo). Have thought of cutting an angle on the pod rubber clamp face so to skew the pod to achieve a more even clearance around, but this may be detrimental to a cyclonic effect of air flow.
Radiator Auto part Vehicle Gas Metal
 
#44 ·
@OldMav stated in a post, that I read some time ago, that a pod type filter box is best to provide at least a 30mm clearance from the box internal inlet face to pod base.

ie _ as mentioned in your build thread), IMO the 55mm base clearance to 9" K&N pod filter base as provided with Ben Lipscombe 330mm long airbox is fine (up to you). With the profile of the box and the way that debris is collected uniformly over pod appears to work well(with h/f turbo). Have thought of cutting an angle on the pod rubber clamp face so to skew the pod to achieve a more even clearance around, but this may be detrimental to a cyclonic effect of air flow.
View attachment 519664
Talking ideals 30mm clearance is the minimum so at least most of the element has a chance to be used. But with pod elements they were never designed to be in a box. Like most round element they like air entry to be circulated around the element. Sadly entry air from the end like these examples is not ideal but works good enough for our power range or our air requirement. End entry like the examples really do need something like 100mm clear to keep pressure differentials below 0.5in Hg.I have only done preliminary testing on a FATs product. The test did show excellent flow capacity at constant flow values, but did struggle on spool up air flow they will hinder spool compared to a panel element like a Radius fab type due to entry air design and space. The Radius would be a lot closer to ideal had the air box been designed with 30mm clearance all around the edges though.

This tech stuff is well documented in white papers its not just my findings.Remembering all my testing is for air accelerations from 0 lbs/min to 40 lbs/minute air in 5 seconds which is about whats needed for a 200rwkw turbo diesel engine.For lesser acceleration requirements obviously the demands on air acceleration capacity are a lot less.

For a good check on how your air box and element works is looking at the dirt line on the element at service time, this is a good indicator. For example a ZD air box tell tail dirt deposit right at the entry point on the element. That nice 100mm round dirt packed deposit right at the entry is not a good sign actually its worse than horrible which it evident on any testing done on this type of air box even for std ZD30 air demands. This indicator is a sure fire indicator that the air box is killing turbo spool and driveability, net alone filtration which is what the air box is suppose to achieve. Sadly The ZD30 box can see 14m/sec air speeds at the entry point. At those air speeds the element can only filter rocks. For most elements something under 4/m/sec is ideal for the element to do its job. I have posted this data many times in the past but doesn't hurt to post this info again.
thanks both of you. Very informative.

@OldMav do you think there’s any benefit to me running an 8” rather than 9”? Would go from 55mm clearance to 80mm clearance.
 
#42 ·
Talking ideals 30mm clearance is the minimum so at least most of the element has a chance to be used. But with pod elements they were never designed to be in a box. Like most round element they like air entry to be circulated around the element. Sadly entry air from the end like these examples is not ideal but works good enough for our power range or our air requirement. End entry like the examples really do need something like 100mm clear to keep pressure differentials below 0.5in Hg.I have only done preliminary testing on a FATs product. The test did show excellent flow capacity at constant flow values, but did struggle on spool up air flow they will hinder spool compared to a panel element like a Radius fab type due to entry air design and space. The Radius would be a lot closer to ideal had the air box been designed with 30mm clearance all around the edges though.

This tech stuff is well documented in white papers its not just my findings.Remembering all my testing is for air accelerations from 0 lbs/min to 40 lbs/minute air in 5 seconds which is about whats needed for a 200rwkw turbo diesel engine.For lesser acceleration requirements obviously the demands on air acceleration capacity are a lot less.

For a good check on how your air box and element works is looking at the dirt line on the element at service time, this is a good indicator. For example a ZD air box tell tail dirt deposit right at the entry point on the element. That nice 100mm round dirt packed deposit right at the entry is not a good sign actually its worse than horrible which it evident on any testing done on this type of air box even for std ZD30 air demands. This indicator is a sure fire indicator that the air box is killing turbo spool and driveability, net alone filtration which is what the air box is suppose to achieve. Sadly The ZD30 box can see 14m/sec air speeds at the entry point. At those air speeds the element can only filter rocks. For most elements something under 4/m/sec is ideal for the element to do its job. I have posted this data many times in the past but doesn't hurt to post this info again.
 
#43 ·
@OldMav thanks Peter, worthwhile input again.

I have not done a run yet w/o pod in this box.
Attach are two pics of my 9"K&N pod filter/box that are representative of my daily operating environment (@ nom 5000km service interval). Debris is distributed fairly evenly thru 360° / more evident @ larger dia(has 55mm pod base clearance). Live out of town on dirt road. Thoughts?
Vehicle Auto part Car Engine Automotive exterior
Auto part Grille Radiator Metal
 
#61 ·
Live out of town on dirt road. Thoughts?
View attachment 519687
Interested in the dust distribution on the pod filter. Looking at how there is less dust on the first nose section and then increasing dust, bugs and debris further to the rear, it suggests the entry is straight in front of the flat end of the pod and air is being deflected out and around the end of the pod then coming back further down the length.

519714
 
#45 ·
If I had my time and money again, I would maybe consider doing the radius fab panel filter and moving the aux battery to the rear. Although it’s a bit of money/work to do so.

I spoke to radius who said that yes the coolant components would have to be moved to make it work, but doable. Not really something Id be willing to do right now.

tbh with my stock turbo, injectors and no real desire to create monster power, I think the pod may provide sufficient flow.

there’s also an issue of money. I got the aux battery tray used for a steal, and bens pod box is at least $200 cheaper than any panel box (before necessary mods etc)
 
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