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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, just popped an EF alternator (110amp) on the GQ, just wanted to make sure these voltages sound about right. All volts at idle, engine/alt cold.

14.3 - no load
14.1 - headlights on
13.1 - high beam, 120W LED Light Bar, 2 x 36W LED Floodlights, 2 x 27W LED Floodlights.

Didn't have the heater/fans on for any of this, but assume that will lower things further. No ac on the car so don't have to worry about that.

Do these voltages seem ok at idle? I'd assume that once it's got a few revs behind it, the voltages should go up a bit (mainly the high beam one is the concern).
 

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14.4V is considered normal. So, 14.3V should be ok.
If I'm correct, heater fan draws more power than other things.
So, it's a good test to turn it on to do a voltage test.
I'm guessing yours is a TD42.
 

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Yeah GF, a pully swap, and cut off the rear mounting lug. I also had to put a washer under the pulley (alt side) to stop the pulley rubbing on the alt. casing, and ran an extra 6BS wire from power lug to battery Works well, and cost me 50 bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
rb30 dom14. Will try with the heater and see how i go.

And yeah, wasn't too bad. When swapping pulleys, the pulley would hit on the casing. There's a spacer on the rb30 alt, but I didn't have enough thread for the bolt to hold the pulley on. So machined a new spacer, just enough to stop the pulley hitting the casing. Cut rear mount off. New 100a cable to battery as well. Install it all up, and plug it in. One wire that was on the old alt has to go to ground so make sure you do that or you'll get a it of smoke when you put it to pos like I did!

Seems to all line up. By eye it tracks straight at idle and when given a rev. No squealing. Keeping a spare belt in the back just in case.

Bit more work than a straight swap, but even then, only took a few hours. If I had to do it again, would be much quicker, machining the spacer was the hardest part.
 

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rb30 dom14. Will try with the heater and see how i go.

And yeah, wasn't too bad. When swapping pulleys, the pulley would hit on the casing. There's a spacer on the rb30 alt, but I didn't have enough thread for the bolt to hold the pulley on. So machined a new spacer, just enough to stop the pulley hitting the casing. Cut rear mount off. New 100a cable to battery as well. Install it all up, and plug it in. One wire that was on the old alt has to go to ground so make sure you do that or you'll get a it of smoke when you put it to pos like I did!

Seems to all line up. By eye it tracks straight at idle and when given a rev. No squealing. Keeping a spare belt in the back just in case.

Bit more work than a straight swap, but even then, only took a few hours. If I had to do it again, would be much quicker, machining the spacer was the hardest part.
I would use a machinists ruler and measure the alignment to make sure the pulley and belt runs straight. Looks like you've already done a good job with that.

What was your reason to upgrade to double the amps of the alternator?

I still have the stock 60A one on mine. I was considering getting an 80A one.
What you got there now is a super setup. 110A will charge the battery and auxiliary battery in no time.

Does your 110A alternator come with an internal regulator, just like the stock one?
May I ask, where did you get hold of the 110A alternator?

I'm also interested in the upgrade, if it doesn't cost me an arm and a leg. :D
Only thing is that these larger alternators apparently don't produce 14.4V on idling,
but I'm guessing you can get around with that by installing an external adjustable regulator. Since we rarely rely on idling to charge a battery, I don't think it's a problem anyway.

Can you please post a photo of your new alternator setup under the bonnet?

Thanx
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What was your reason to upgrade to double the amps of the alternator?
Yeah, just wanted to double the amps. Running dual batts, inverter, 300w of Leds, winch etc, it all started to add up. Stock alt was still doing ok, but figured the upgrade would be welcomed by the batteries.

I still have the stock 60A one on mine. I was considering getting an 80A one.
What you got there now is a super setup. 110A will charge the battery and auxiliary battery in no time.
That's the hope :)

Does your 110A alternator come with an internal regulator, just like the stock one?
May I ask, where did you get hold of the 110A alternator?
Internally regulated. It's a second hand alternator from an EF Falcon (i6 motor). Just got it at the local wreckers.

I'm also interested in the upgrade, if it doesn't cost me an arm and a leg. :D
Costs:
Alt - $31
2GA 160A Cable 1M - $15
Cable insulation stuff - $5
Terminal Lugs to suit - $5
2GA Fuse holder - $20
100A Fuse - $7
Zip ties - $2

Total: $85 and a few hours work.

Only thing is that these larger alternators apparently don't produce 14.4V on idling,
but I'm guessing you can get around with that by installing an external adjustable regulator. Since we rarely rely on idling to charge a battery, I don't think it's a problem anyway.
The charge figures I quoted before, 14.3V at idle with no load, seems close enough. The only voltage figure that had me worried was full load voltage at idle, I haven't tested yet but consensus from speaking to people is that this will go up with rpm.

Can you please post a photo of your new alternator setup under the bonnet?
Wont be able to do photos until weekend, don't get home until after dark and it's too dark when I leave. Sorry.

Thanx
No worries
 

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What was your reason to upgrade to double the amps of the alternator?
Yeah, just wanted to double the amps. Running dual batts, inverter, 300w of Leds, winch etc, it all started to add up. Stock alt was still doing ok, but figured the upgrade would be welcomed by the batteries.

I still have the stock 60A one on mine. I was considering getting an 80A one.
What you got there now is a super setup. 110A will charge the battery and auxiliary battery in no time.
That's the hope :)

Does your 110A alternator come with an internal regulator, just like the stock one?
May I ask, where did you get hold of the 110A alternator?
Internally regulated. It's a second hand alternator from an EF Falcon (i6 motor). Just got it at the local wreckers.

I'm also interested in the upgrade, if it doesn't cost me an arm and a leg. :D
Costs:
Alt - $31
2GA 160A Cable 1M - $15
Cable insulation stuff - $5
Terminal Lugs to suit - $5
2GA Fuse holder - $20
100A Fuse - $7
Zip ties - $2

Total: $85 and a few hours work.

Only thing is that these larger alternators apparently don't produce 14.4V on idling,
but I'm guessing you can get around with that by installing an external adjustable regulator. Since we rarely rely on idling to charge a battery, I don't think it's a problem anyway.
The charge figures I quoted before, 14.3V at idle with no load, seems close enough. The only voltage figure that had me worried was full load voltage at idle, I haven't tested yet but consensus from speaking to people is that this will go up with rpm.

Can you please post a photo of your new alternator setup under the bonnet?
Wont be able to do photos until weekend, don't get home until after dark and it's too dark when I leave. Sorry.

Thanx
No worries
Thanks mate. It's all good. Description was as good as a picture.
Cheers
 

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Pictures or it didnt happen...yer im that guy
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Will grab some pictures on the weekend sidewaysvc.

Also, you'll need different bolts/nuts for the top and bottom mounts (bottom mount needs a shorter bolt because the rear mount gets cut off the alt - the top mount needs a nut as the rb30 ones have a thread tapped in the housing - the fords do not).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanx mate. I will get hold of the alternator first.
Obviously the alternator cost a fair bit less than other bits and pieces. :)
Yeah, I just got the alt from a jolly's u pull it type place. Looked at about 15 falcons before I found one with an alt that looked decent. They tend to get covered in power steering fluid as the reservoir is right above it - I managed to find a clean one with relatively low kms. For $30 I couldn't complain.

Yeah, the other bits and pieces add up - still at under $100 I'm happy with the upgrade. Plus, if I get a pulley for my old alternator, I'll have a working spare to keep in the car for longer trips.

The hardest bit was machining the spacer - lucky for me a fabricator mate was handy at the time and able to make one up for me in a few minutes - I didn't want to cut down the original one so I can keep it for the spare alternator, and also in case anything didn't work - I could still use it on my original if need be.
 

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I think I will give a go at it myself with the spacer. I'll see how I go with a piece of steel, hacksaw, angle grinder and drill. I definitely need a spare one or at least a spare regulator diode for longer trips. For $30 or so, it's probably cheaper to keep a spare EF Falcon alternator or compatible cheap one, unless you can source a pulley cheaper. I think pulley shouldn't be hard to find under $30 if you look around.
How did you find out EF Falcon alternator is the best, cheapest and nearest matching one for RB30?
Did you ask around or did you do your own research?
Or are there any previous threads in the forum on this upgrade?
I'm just wondering whether there are other straight bolt in high amp alternators for RB30 Patrol?
Around the $100 mark of course. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Just google mate, lots of research - if you google GQ EF Alt upgrade, or similar, you'll get lots of things. Lots of posts for people upgrading their tb42 alts for EF ones as well, procedure seems the same. As for straight bolt in, nothing I could find in this price bracket, but could be something out there. You can get ebay jobbies but they're generally 300+ (and you still need to upgrade wiring etc).

Yeah, I'd like to have a complete alternator ready to go, be it falcon or the standard one - just in case.

Only reason we machines a new spacer up is so I could still use the car if the EF alt didn't work for whatever reason. If I had cut down the original spacer, and the ef alt turned out to be a dud, I'd be up the proverbial.
 
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