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nissan patrol GU
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

Ive bloody cracked it with my 1999 2.8 GU now. I had a problem with it being hard to start a while ago (it has 150k on the clock), so I followed a few steps i could find such as...
chucked in a set of new glow plugs - it didnt really help
Next, put a hot wire to plug into the battery directly to the glow rail - helped but burnt out the glow plugs in about 8 months
I took the rail off and took the wire off that goes to the rail and cleaned the connection to it and put it all back together again - No help.
I checked with the rail off to see if there is voltage getting to the rail - yes, it goes to about 11.6v then slowly drops away to about 6v until the glow relay switches off.

Now with New glow plugs again, Voltage to the rail, relay switching on and off.. It wont start unless i hot wire the glow rail or spray some start ya bastard into the intake.

One auto elec I talk to said without seeing it, it could be the fuel pump as it is extremely hard to start when cold, even with a hot wire in the snow it jitters but doesnt start until it almost flattens the battery.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks heaps!
Fluff..
 

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Have you tried waiting six seconds after the glowplug light has gone out before cranking?

If your voltage drops to 6V then I would be very concerned about your battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah Ive waited 6 seconds, i have glowed it like 6 or 7 times but still nothing.. it was either 6 or 8v but i know after the glow light goes off it slowly drops in voltage until it turns off completely. The battery is a 680cca which is about 8 months old. It cranks the engine nicely and even had it on the charger the other day before starting cos I left the car sit for about 2 or 3 months. Still not enough to kick it..

Im at the stage where it's either gonna cop a push button direct wire in the cabin, 4.2litre glow plug system, or a 4.2TD or a RB30 (with rb26 head n turbos) skyline engine..

So much for diesels being reliable haha
 

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I've had my 2.8 since 98 and had starting problem since 40-50k odd. Had to count the obligatory 6-7 sec after light goes out (until I noticed thats when the seat belt light goes out - and wondered if they miswired it haha ) ,no just put up with it until ---
Just had the fuel pump overhauled by U.F.I at 170k and what do you know starting problem gone !!

So I'd say if yours has done over 150k could be time for a fuel pump overhaul anyway.
Not that I'd wish it on anyone as its not cheap but it does seem to be common with 2.8TD's
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, Id assume it wouldnt be cheap.. what would you say its worth? $1500 to 2500?

Considering the fact that when i was in the snow last, with the glow plugs hotwired, it jittered to start but took till it almost flattened the battery before it kicked over and started. So yeah I think your right, cos since i got it its gotten worse until now where i gotta use hot wire (which its getting harder with that) or start ya bastard which i heard isnt good for a diesel all the time..

Maybe I should look at doing the overhaul myself..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just to mention too, This is only on Cold starts.. If its warm or if i start it in the morning then leave it for a couple of hours n come back it starts no problem. just first start in the morning or when super cold..
 

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Well it cost me ~$1000 for United Fuel to diagnose fault on dyno (missing at low revs which was getting worse over a few years.) and to overhaul pump with a seals kit ect which solve the missing.
But the starting problem remained static since it started and really not much difference between hot and cold starts, although it doesn't get as cold here in the west as you'd get.

I maybe completely wrong here but I think theirs a temp dependant resistor in the glow plug cct to limit the current to plugs over a few seconds. Would stop them blowing and the reason you’re getting ~6v across plugs before relay goes off.

I'd still bet on the pump, but of coarse its your bet !! and I know bugger all about motors !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the input.. Yeah Im getting over the fact of spraying start ya bastard down the intake to start it in the morning.. I even counted 5.5hours after it was warm n it took a few more cranks but still started.. So I'm not 100% convinced on the pump, could be just injectors or both? it blows a **** load of smoke but im not going to go down chasing that path, ive heard of a lot of people spending a lot of money on trying to fix that with little to no success..

that resistor is a good bet..
Does anyone know where that resistor is located?

many thanks
 

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i dont really think its your injector pump at this stage (nolt saying its not a little worn at 150km). If it was really worn it would be causing you more grief when hot.
When you finally get the thing started does it run rough for a couple of seconds or does it idle normal?
I would think the reason you are burning out your glw plugs with your direct wiring is that the glow plugs are 11 volt units so when you hook them up the the battery you are getting a lot more than that.
Has it being blowing a lot of smoke for long or has it started when the cold start issue came up?
When sitting in the car on a cold morning you will be able to hear the glow plug relay click (takes a bit of time) form memory it clicks on the left hand side of the engine bay.
I think your on the right track you need to work out why its dropping to 6 volts.
 

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When you push on the hand primer (top of fuel filter) in the morning is it firm or soft?

What brand of fuel are you using?
 

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just had one come in and we put glow plugs in it no good fuel pressure was good turned out it needed to be reshimmed starts like new.
 

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Just to mention too, This is only on Cold starts.. If its warm or if i start it in the morning then leave it for a couple of hours n come back it starts no problem. just first start in the morning or when super cold..
how cold is super cold, just trying to think outside the square but is it cold enough for the diesel fuel to start gelling up??
 

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also, mine has done the same, ive done the pump plate a couple years back, the glow plugs 18 months back and recently discovered that the return lines were perished a little and the oem clamps are sh#*! which i would say is letting air bleed back into the system whilst sitting. replaced the return lines and used new clamps, now starts like new. although it doesnt snow here... try cranking it with your foot flat to the floor for a few seconds?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i dont really think its your injector pump at this stage (nolt saying its not a little worn at 150km). If it was really worn it would be causing you more grief when hot.
When you finally get the thing started does it run rough for a couple of seconds or does it idle normal?
I would think the reason you are burning out your glw plugs with your direct wiring is that the glow plugs are 11 volt units so when you hook them up the the battery you are getting a lot more than that.
Has it being blowing a lot of smoke for long or has it started when the cold start issue came up?
When sitting in the car on a cold morning you will be able to hear the glow plug relay click (takes a bit of time) form memory it clicks on the left hand side of the engine bay.
I think your on the right track you need to work out why its dropping to 6 volts.
Hey, Yeah it is probably worn.. but dont think its the whole problem.. I know the hot wire for the glow plugs isnt probably good for them, probably why they have a resistor...

When it first starts, the idle is a little high then drops down n runs fine.. so i would say smooth.

It blows alot of smoke until it comes on boost, then the smoke drops away..

I can hear the glow plug click as well..

Cheers,
 

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Discussion Starter #16
just had one come in and we put glow plugs in it no good fuel pressure was good turned out it needed to be reshimmed starts like new.
You know, that would explain the smoke n lack of power as well, whats a shim job worth?
Are you in melb?

Cheers,
Troy
 

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Discussion Starter #17
bump
 
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