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2012 ZD Auto Y61
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As a foreword; I’m not a tradesmen, not even close. I have a crack at stuff and probably know enough about a few things to not be competent, but just dangerous.

This is also a bit of an essay, I thought that showing my though process for this might help others in the future.

I've been wanting to upgrade the factory intercooler on the GU now for a while. I recently did a trip down to Victoria to do some volunteer flood work in Victoria and as part of that towed down a heavy utility trailer and had a Rooftop tent on the Patrol.

Through the entire trip I found my EGT’s were consistently sitting around 400 degrees on flat sections of road and going up any sort of decent incline would see them spike into the danger zone of around 600-650+. I was consistently backing off going up hills and had to drive the thing like I was nursing it. The peak of this was coming into Sydney travelling through the Hawksbury region I found myself being overtaken going up a hill by a Sims scrap metal truck.

I should say at this point that the vehicle has been tuned, and I suspect it’s a bit spicy. I’m happy with the power of the vehicle (~155 hp at the wheels on 33’s) but I think that the AFR’s are probably well up there to get that.

As a mid trip remedy I picked up a pair of 250mm Maridyne fans and bodged up a mounting system in a servo carpark- I used zip ties to hold a fan under the standard intercooler and a bit of cardboard to make some ducting. This dropped the EGT’s substantially and prevented the stock intercooler from heat soaking as quickly- it also seemed to help it recover much faster as well.

My long-term aim has always been to fit a larger intercooler and since I’ve got some Fraser Island trips planned before the end of the year, I decided to do it sooner rather than later.

I decided on a Top Mount cooler as opposed to a front mount for several reasons, those being;

-Ease of fabrication of pipework. From initial research the routing of pipework for a front mount is convoluted on a GU. The conventional wisdom seems to be that pipework goes through the passenger side wheel arch which I deemed to be unacceptable both from a durability perspective, but also I think it looks untidy (I accept that this is a subjective judgement and some may not have a problem with that).

-The amount of accessories I’ve already got in the front of the car that would either have to be moved, or would block flow to the cooler there (Winch and winch control box, twin spotties and an existing separate cooler for the transmission). To my mind these hinder the performance of a top mount.

-Blocking airflow to the radiator. I didn’t like that in addition to all the stuff mentioned above that’s already hindering flow that I’d effectively be putting another large heat exchanger in the road that my thermo fan would have to pull air through.

-Protection. Top mounts are typically more protected against rocks/ sticks etc. than front mounts and are also less susceptible to getting full of mud/ dirt etc.

Any design choice is a trade-off. Front mounts are certainly superior from a performance perspective. Aa top mount is also a pain in the neck to work around in the engine bay, although since I don’t have a second battery under the bonnet, I’ve got a bit more room than usual.

The cooler I went with was the cheapest bar and plate intercooler I could find on eBay and I’ll link it down the bottom for future reference if anyone is interested.

I should say at the outset that I wanted to use dual Maridyne fans on the cooler. This makes it much more difficult to get clearance and the job without these would be a lot easier.

The first step was to remove all the factory brackets and fabricate up a mount for the new cooler. We decided to use 12mm round bar and 50x3 EA steel sections to produce the desired shape. The fans were zipped tied onto the bottom of the cooler to make sure that there was sufficient clearance between them and the electrical plugs on top of the injectors. My intercooler ended up in a similar position to the stock cooler being located approximately 180mm from the firewall. (which is a little bit further forward that some of the others that I’ve seen on the forums- as I have fans underneath this position was required to clear the injectors however.

After fabricating a bracket that held the cooler in the correct spot the bonnet scoop was examined, and a template drawn. This template was then used to get an idea of where the scoop would need to go- The Colorado scoop has quite a long “lip” that needs to be accommodated for when cutting the hole.

The bonnet was then cut out and the scoop test fitted. It turns out that the lip was slightly fouling on the front of the cooler and so using a flap wheel I trimmed the plastic back about 10mm to get it to clear.

As of today, that’s where I’m up to. I’m heading into town today to get a can of paint that will be colour matched to the car and we’ll give the scoop a coat of paint.

Once I’ve got the scoop back I’ll affix it to the car and set the final position. The brackets mounting the cooler are still only tacked so they can be moved if necessary to accommodate the position of the scoop slightly. Once everything is set in position I’ll start fabricating the hot and cold side piping to the cooler. Finally, I’ll cut off the mounting bung for the MAP sensor and weld it onto the end tank of the new cooler. I’m also intending to put an air temp sensor in there wired to an Arduino to control my thermos fans.
 

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Keen to see the results to your EGTs.

I previously owned a lot of JDM track cars a decade ago and we would run pretty cheap intercoolers.. I've seen a **** load of tests between big name intercoolers and no name branded coolers and the results have usually been fairly minimal in difference with big name coolers often losing out..

I am yet to upgrade my intercooler on my td42 because I just can't justify spending over 2k for something that (in my opinion) really shouldn't be anymore than 1k (if that) to achieve the same if not better results as big name intercoolers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I reached the same conclusion. I had a chat with (shoutout by the way) to old Mav who pretty much confirmed my thoughts on the fact that the cheaper import ones are not appreciably different in thermal results.

I'd note that build quality appears to be okay, however the packaging was pretty minimal and there are some bent fins (and a slightly bent frame) on the cooler which has probably happened in transit. In addition, the pain is so badly applied I don't know why they bother. They may as well leave it unpainted and let the customer do it properly.

I paid $155 for my cooler (inc postage) which is pretty hard to beat. I'll definitely be washing it first with some solvent to make sure there's no swarf or contaminents leftover from the fabrication process as I'd say that quality control is pretty non-existent (ultimately that's part of what you're paying for with the name brand products).
 

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nissan
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I fitted a similar cheap eBay IC when I did my TD42T conversion in 2015 and I’ve never had a problem with it nor with EGTs.
I have a Panasonic fan under it and a Jaycar 50C temp switch on the IC that activates the fan but it does run most of the time in Summer. I have an override switch in the cabin and a LED to show when it’s on.

I fitted an eBay “Navara” style scoop for mine.

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I fitted a similar cheap eBay IC when I did my TD42T conversion in 2015 and I’ve never had a problem with it nor with EGTs.
I have a Panasonic fan under it and a Jaycar 50C temp switch on the IC that activates the fan but it does run most of the time in Summer. I have an override switch in the cabin and a LED to show when it’s on.

I fitted an eBay “Navara” style scoop for mine.

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What sort of egt's were you seeing pre and post install (cruising/max)?
 

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What sort of egt's were you seeing pre and post install (cruising/max)?
There was no pre-installation. It was fitted when I did the conversion. Max I’ve seen pulling 2.7t caravan up a hill was 450C but I backed off when engine temps got to 115C.
Rarely see over 300 driving normally.. I don’t flog it.
 

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There was no pre-installation. It was fitted when I did the conversion. Max I’ve seen pulling 2.7t caravan up a hill was 450C but I backed off when engine temps got to 115C.
Rarely see over 300 driving normally.. I don’t flog it.
That's impressive considering you're towing 2.7 tonnes.

I'm running the stock intercooler and about 16 psi on the stock turbo on what might not be the greatest tune. Max I've seen is 537 degrees very briefly absolutely giving it uphill.

So if I can get my set up to the point where I'm seeing Max 450 up a long hill (in summer) towing near 2.5t between 80-100km/h that's a win in my books.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
From established literature the CRDs seem to run a lot hotter than the earlier DI's or TD42's. I regularly saw mine go above 600 when going up hills and if pushed would go past 700 (that was on the stock tune). Given that my probe was post turbo I shudder to think what cylinder temps would be if kept at that engine load for an extended period of time.
 

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That's impressive considering you're towing 2.7 tonnes.

I'm running the stock intercooler and about 16 psi on the stock turbo on what might not be the greatest tune. Max I've seen is 537 degrees very briefly absolutely giving it uphill.

So if I can get my set up to the point where I'm seeing Max 450 up a long hill (in summer) towing near 2.5t between 80-100km/h that's a win in my books.
It might have gone higher but I backed off because of engine temps. It was a one time test when I had the Patrol fully loaded to 3.5t and the caravan slightly overloaded with 200 kgs water.
We did 6200 kms to Lorella Springs and back.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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From established literature the CRDs seem to run a lot hotter than the earlier DI's or TD42's. I regularly saw mine go above 600 when going up hills and if pushed would go past 700 (that was on the stock tune). Given that my probe was post turbo I shudder to think what cylinder temps would be if kept at that engine load for an extended period of time.
The CRD doesn't really run hotter than a DI, they can however handle a higher EGT. Where is this established literature?
You will need to change turbos. At 16psi the stock turbo is putting more energy into heating the air than compressing it.
Sorry mate, don't agree with this, my DI with stock turbo pulled good HP and did it without issues, CRD can do and does just as good. I know one that was pulling 190rwhp and 600nm torque with a std turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sorry, I misspoke- you're correct They seem to handle it better. I know that mine stock had no trouble reaching 700 degrees when pushed hard up a big hill (which seems crazy). My 1KD certainly never ran anything like that hot.

190rwhp out of a ZD on a stock turbo would be getting spicy I'd imagine- Looking at mine with the power I'm making (~155) and at 22PSI which is the stock turbo pretty much already tapped out- Adding more fuel to get that higher power is only going to add more heat. A bigger intercooler (and maybe water meth?) to remove heat would be needed to do that sustainably.

Referencing this video from Evolution Tuning on the coast w/r to running a ZD at 200hp-

 

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Sorry mate, don't agree with this, my DI with stock turbo pulled good HP and did it without issues, CRD can do and does just as good. I know one that was pulling 190rwhp and 600nm torque with a std turbo.
Wrong engine. The stock turbo on a TD42 should not be used above about 12psi. ZD30s are another matter.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Wrong engine. The stock turbo on a TD42 should not be used above about 12psi. ZD30s are another matter.
OK, from the below post I thought we were talking about a crd!
From established literature the CRDs seem to run a lot hotter than the earlier DI's or TD42's. I regularly saw mine go above 600 when going up hills and if pushed would go past 700 (that was on the stock tune). Given that my probe was post turbo I shudder to think what cylinder temps would be if kept at that engine load for an extended period of time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Finished(ish) the fitup today and took it for a test drive- Haven't got everything buttoned up yet, but I was keen to get the car back on the road.

I still need to fit fans, paint the bracket and attach some foam sealing tape between the intercooler and bonnet.

Initial tests are not as promising as I'd hoped- It's definitely cooler, but if pushed enough I'll still see temperatures of up to 700 degrees (I'm hoping that this is due in part to the lack of sealing tape which I'll fit when I next get into town). It's also a stinking day in my part of the world today, and I believe we saw temps approaching 40 degrees.

I noticed that my boost control is now much more erratic (perhaps a culprit for the high EGT's as well). I've relocated the boost source from a fitting on the stock steel charge pipe and instead placed it on the end tank on the intercoolers cold side- along with the MAP sensor. I'm currently doing some reading up on adjusting the valve to remedy this. For reference my boost source is now probably at least a meter away from the valve- Which I think might be too much- I can always drill and tap another fitting in on the hot side if necessary.

Everything else being equal with the Tillux I'm losing about 2PSI through the cooler compared to known maximum values beforehand- When on the hot side of the old cooler I used to get about 21.5-22PSI max boost and now I'm sitting at about 19.5-20 on the cold side.

Final thoughts:

The job was larger and more fiddly than I'd anticipated- although I'm a rookie fabricator so that's not saying much. I now understand why most top mounts are either 450mm wide or only have 1 fan under the cooler. If I'd elected not to place fans the job would have been significantly easier. I'm pretty happy with how the job has turned out and owe a big thanks to a mate of mine that gave me a lot of advice and a hand with the stainless TIG welding. It was always important to me that I ended up with a clean "factory" looking product and I think I achieved that.

Big thanks to others on here who documented their own fitment of this scoop in years past- I got a lot out of Zoltans threads which was the initial inspiration for doing the job as I liked the look that much.

I'll post a final update when I get the foam sealing tape in and the fans on- I've recorded data from a big hill nearby and average cruising temps with the old cooler and I'll do a bit of a comparison when I've got this one finished buttoned up properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Took it for a test run down to the sunshine coast today with a brief stop in at the local Big Green Shed (Bunnings) to get some weather stripping to seal up the bonnet to intercooler gap. Noticed a big difference in EGT's after doing this. Pushing the car will still see about 600 but that's down from the 700 that i used to see on the stock cooler. Cruising temperatures are down to around 280-300 whereas before they were in the high 300's to 400.

Very happy with the result, I'm installing fans in the next few days- I don't anticipate them to make much of a difference at high speed, but they should help a great deal doing slow work.
 
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