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nissan patrol
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With auto hubs, what is the advantage/purpose of the "lock" setting over having it in the "auto" setting.
 

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nissan
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Aparently when driving hard in reverse they can slip/ disengage when in auto
 

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nissan
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When off roading, on and off the throttle then a front wheel looses contact with the ground, they can disengage and then damage themselves as they attempt to re-engage (ive heard mine make a awfull chatter sound when in this situation)

Auto mode is ok for the beach or a dirt road, but if you will see any sort of suspension articulation, best to lock them in ;)



Locked position, makes sure they wont dis-engage when you reverse, such as when you back up to get a run up a hill, then mash the throttle forwards (damaging hubs)





A lot will say "pee em off and put manual ones on", personally i like not "having" to get out to engage 4wd in some situations, and when locked in they perform just fine anyway !
 

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pee em off and put manual ones on


hahaha i couldn't resist.
 

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nissan
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pee em off and put manual ones on


hahaha i couldn't resist.
I knew someone would.

The auto hubs are great, if you use them correctly. Always lock them when you intend to do any sort of continuous 4WDriving (high or low range). The auto mode is only intended for emergency/light duty use, such as if you were parked on a grassy slope (say at a footy match) and couldn't get traction in 2WD to get moving. It's a bloody handy thing to have and when locked, they are as strong as manual hubs (though some may disagree :)).

Cheers

Ray
 

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X 2 with Ray...

The "lock" setting is exactly the same purpose as manual hubs IE if you are going offroad then lock them.

The auto setting is for "one off" lazy mans applications IE tooling along the track, come to a dodgy bit, no need to get out, select H4 or L4, negotiate the section, back to H2, disengage the hubs as per the instructions and keep on truckin'
 

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I changed mine to manual because i got fed up with the clattering when in 2wd on bitumen.
Bit of a pain to get out to lock, but I can live with that as opposed to the clattering.
 

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That would have been due to a maintenance issue. Never had a problem with them. And for naysayers, yes, they do get used off-road.

Cheers

Ray
 

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I have also stuck with the auto hubs. Nothing wrong with them.
Youve gotta get out and let your tryres down when your getting serious, so no biggy to change fron auto to lock then. You would have to do the same with manual hubs, but also have the convenience of auto mode for small emergencies. :)
 

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Umm, doesnt the wheel have to make 1 rotation before it locks in, after you have engaged 4wd, which wont happen if you are already stuck.
This is the time that you need to get out and lock the front hubs with the spanner.
Syd
 

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I was led to believe that auto hubs in the lock position were stronger than the manual ones

A guy I worked with always ran autos on his v8 powered GU winch truck on 37" sticky treps and never had one fail or any other problems.
 

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Umm, doesnt the wheel have to make 1 rotation before it locks in, after you have engaged 4wd, which wont happen if you are already stuck.
This is the time that you need to get out and lock the front hubs with the spanner.
Syd
NO the wheel does not have to make a rotation only the drive shaft, diff and axle needs to rotate to lock them in.

If you want to check just jump under your car in the driveway and rotate the front drive shaft by hand and you will feel it lock the hubs. But if you were stuch with one wheel spinning you could find that only one was locking properly on auto. So you were right to get out and lock them with the spanner.


Inbits,
yes I tend to agree I have pulled a few apart and they are a lot heavier than an AVM manual hub. But you need to lock them in manually just like a manual hub to make sure they stay locked.

I think all the problems come from wear and tearing bitts of the teeth when they auto unlock and then re lock while under load.
 
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