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Hi, as the title says my temp gauge for the trans indicates that it gets very hot when I'm pulling my van, up hill 125C+ and rising. I have a 4L80 E gearbox attached to a Chev 6.5 and I know that the electronic gearbox shuts itself down at 130C. I have installed a further trans cooller and even though it dropped the temp a bit the same thing is happening, but slightly slower. Any hints of what my next step could be to help cool this? Is ok (just) when car is not towing.
Thanks guys
Ian
 

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Have a good read as these titles may help you.

Transmission Overheating

1.Main control assembly gaskets damaged or bolt out of torque.
2.Main control separator plate damaged.
3.Main control solenoid stuck or damaged.
4.Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
5.Seized torque converter one-way clutch.
6.Excessive slip.
7.Restriction in oil cooler or tubes.
8.Improper band/clutch application pressures
Automatic Transmission overheating - 4x4 Earth

Gearbox Overheating @ ExplorOz Forum

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/general-patrol-discussion-17/gearbox-overheating-51234/

Outer Limits 4x4 Board • View topic - disco's gearbox overheating

Good luck,
 

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nissan patrol
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Are you continuing to use the trans heater (I refuse to call it a trans cooler) in the radiator?
As an example: My GQ petrol auto with 2 front mounted trans coolers and having deleted the ones in the radiator has cruising temps with my single axle Galaxy caravan in tow of around 50C. That is with a manual lock up switch on the torque convertor and towing in 3rd gear.
With the torque convertor unlocked going up hills the maximum temps I see are around 90C.
Regards Andrew.
 

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I understand that temp on the output line to cooler is only representative of just worked oil. The actual pan temp will be less in higher volume oil area / heat sink. More technical people could tell you better what should be what. I have mine on the oil to cooler and it has run to pretty much 140 and I trust the gauge. I run Penrite FS Auto Fluid. The fluid did not suffer any damage - flash point well over 200c. I also run Nulon Auto Fluid additive. My fault was to climb Waterfall Way to Dorrigo with overdrive engaged and not in Power Mode with the Auto.
 

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Every dog has his day
2005 TD42 GU IV
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I’m not aware of any ATF that does not start to break down at 130 degrees, even ultra expensive synthetics like redline.

The trans temp light in the dash is based on average sump temp, the hottest oil is what comes out of the TC and out to the cooler, so my guage sender is there to tell me the worst case of any oil in the system. It’s nothing to do with flash point, nobody is suggesting the fluid will spontaneously combust, but after 130 it starts to break down and lose its lubrication properties, one of its most important functions.

Perhaps a bigger (or additional) cooler will be in order, if there’s room.

I like the idea of the bigger, finned pan too, shame no one seems to do them for the RE4 that I can find.
 
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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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I’m not aware of any ATF that does not start to break down at 130 degrees, even ultra expensive synthetics like redline.

The trans temp light in the dash is based on average sump temp, the hottest oil is what comes out of the TC and out to the cooler, so my guage sender is there to tell me the worst case of any oil in the system. It’s nothing to do with flash point, nobody is suggesting the fluid will spontaneously combust, but after 130 it starts to break down and lose its lubrication properties, one of its most important functions.

Perhaps a bigger (or additional) cooler will be in order, if there’s room.

I like the idea of the bigger, finned pan too, shame no one seems to do them for the RE4 that I can find.
That was my info on temp too.

As for the big oil pan mine holds a lot more oil. I think standard the RE5 is about 10 litres or a bit more, and my box holds 15 litres.
 

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Every dog has his day
2005 TD42 GU IV
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That was my info on temp too.

As for the big oil pan mine holds a lot more oil. I think standard the RE5 is about 10 litres or a bit more, and my box holds 15 litres.
Yep I’ve found two mobs that make them for RE5 (well suppliers, prob same manufacturer) but none for the RE4. Bugger.
 

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Yep I’ve found two mobs that make them for RE5 (well suppliers, prob same manufacturer) but none for the RE4. Bugger.
I reckon you could do a good job on making it a bit bigger yourself. Not as flash as a sand cast finned ally unit, but some sheet steel could be used to add a bit of capacity.
 

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Every dog has his day
2005 TD42 GU IV
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But I like the idea of the finned ally to aid in cooling, every little bit helps. But yes if I can find a second hand one to play with I might have a crack 👍
 

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I would expect a good trans fluid cooler setup using front mounted heat exchangers to negate the need for additional cooling in the pan itself.
Most of the heat is generated in the TC (unless you have other internal issues) and is pumped out to the cooling system.
You can basically thermostatically regulate the temp of the fluid coming back to the trans if you want to go that far.

i have an issue in cooler weather running on the highway with trans locked where the temps coming from the trans drop as low as 60C So I’m looking at adding a thermostat with a bypass to reduce the cooling effect.
 
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