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Ok so I need a new battery as it looks like I have killed my Fullriver HR105. It seemed to take the heat OK. But just didnt last long enough. Should have fitted a battery monitor a long time ago.

Anyway. If I am going to spend real money on a new battery (the FR retailed at $600+). Has anyone fitted one in the standard AUX spot?

DCS as much as some of the fanboi's annoy me. is about the only battery that is warrantied for under bonnet use. But most installs I have seen have been Landcruisers. Which have the best aux battery locations on any car. And want see anywhere near the heat of a Patrol.

Looking for approx 80-100ah as a min. Happy to use a DCDC charger if needed to look after it.

Its that Or I buy a Enerdrive 40amp DCDC and the baintech slimline. And install in the boot.
 

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GU8 CRD
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Call me skeptical, but I would doubt the longevity of any LFP battery installed under bonnet, regardless of the marketing blurb. Chemisty is chemistry and LFP has it's limits, especially when charging. Due to the high charge acceptance rates, they can also destroy alternators if not careful, so a DC-DC charger should always be considered. I'm a fan of the Redarc units because they are designed to use under bonnet and are waterproof. The Enerdrive may be a bit fancier in the settings and display departments, but the Redarc is the better quality for just a little(ish) more in price.
 

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I’ve got the 75Ah DCS battery in my GQ in the standard position on the left hand guard.
The 75 is the only one that will fit in a standard N70 battery tray (310mm length), the 100 is too long at 330mm. The 75 is a bit shorter so there’s some room to spare in the battery tray. I put some insulation around the battery to try and protect it from the heat. I am using the Projecta dcdc lithium charger, it also has solar input, is waterproof and shockproof and rated for under the bonnet like the redarc, except cheaper. They have good customer service too, I have called them a couple of times for technical info and they always answer the phone and know the answers.
As far as heat goes, well I put a thermometer in there and checked the temperature after a 200km drive, it was under 40 degrees behind the insulation so that’s not too bad. There’s a couple of YouTube vids where the guy has thrashed his battery under the bonnet for over a year, then tested the output against brand new spec and it hasn’t dropped in performance at all, so that’s encouraging. I have read on some overseas sites that lifepo4 batteries can handle heat better than lead acid, although obviously there’s going to be limits. I’m happy with what I’ve done with mine, and the benefits of weight and useable capacity are worth it to me, even if it doesn’t end up lasting as long as I’m hoping. But I barely got 2 years out of most of my previous batteries, so a three year under bonnet warranty puts me ahead of where I’ve been in the past.
As far as performance goes, I was running two 80 litre fridges on a beach camp and the 75 Ah lithium was keeping up with them, usually fully charged by lunchtime, that was using 320w of solar panels through the Projecta.

Edit: here’s a link to the battery test I was referring to above


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Discussion Starter #4
Call me skeptical, but I would doubt the longevity of any LFP battery installed under bonnet, regardless of the marketing blurb. Chemisty is chemistry and LFP has it's limits, especially when charging. Due to the high charge acceptance rates, they can also destroy alternators if not careful, so a DC-DC charger should always be considered. I'm a fan of the Redarc units because they are designed to use under bonnet and are waterproof. The Enerdrive may be a bit fancier in the settings and display departments, but the Redarc is the better quality for just a little(ish) more in price.
I currently have a Fullriver HC105-HR. After a heap of googling for the specs. The best info I can find it was only rated to 60degrees. I can guarantee I am over that. And although I dont think it has helped the cause. Im sure over discharge has killed it not heat.
I still need to get my head around how they do the charging. DCS say they can (and many do) direct charge from the alternator. Using something called an agrofit to share the alternator direct feed.

DCDC, I wouldnt use a Enerdrive if I was using under the bonnent. As it would need to be waterproof. As I would mount it infront of the radiator support panel so it stays cooler and maintains highest charge rate.

I’ve got the 75Ah DCS battery in my GQ in the standard position on the left hand guard.
The 75 is the only one that will fit in a standard N70 battery tray (310mm length), the 100 is too long at 330mm. The 75 is a bit shorter so there’s some room to spare in the battery tray. I put some insulation around the battery to try and protect it from the heat. I am using the Projecta dcdc lithium charger, it also has solar input, is waterproof and shockproof and rated for under the bonnet like the redarc, except cheaper. They have good customer service too, I have called them a couple of times for technical info and they always answer the phone and know the answers.
As far as heat goes, well I put a thermometer in there and checked the temperature after a 200km drive, it was under 40 degrees behind the insulation so that’s not too bad. There’s a couple of YouTube vids where the guy has thrashed his battery under the bonnet for over a year, then tested the output against brand new spec and it hasn’t dropped in performance at all, so that’s encouraging. I have read on some overseas sites that lifepo4 batteries can handle heat better than lead acid, although obviously there’s going to be limits. I’m happy with what I’ve done with mine, and the benefits of weight and useable capacity are worth it to me, even if it doesn’t end up lasting as long as I’m hoping. But I barely got 2 years out of most of my previous batteries, so a three year under bonnet warranty puts me ahead of where I’ve been in the past.
As far as performance goes, I was running two 80 litre fridges on a beach camp and the 75 Ah lithium was keeping up with them, usually fully charged by lunchtime, that was using 320w of solar panels through the Projecta.

Edit: here’s a link to the battery test I was referring to above


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I have temp gunned my battery and have seen high 80's. Wish I knew where it was the other day. As my CTEK DS250 went into fault yesterday. Popping the bonnent and pooring some water on it when I got home and it seemed to come good.
If I was just doing the main battery. I probable would have already fitted one. As I doubt that side gets very hot at all.
But weight is another reason I am willing to spend some $$$$. As its one area its easy to drop some weight.

Thanks for the mention of the Battery size. I just assumed the 100ah was a standard size battery. I didn't realise it was a larger size.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just watched the Video Andrew. Cruisers really are spoilt with twin battery trays behind the headlights from factory.
 

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I made a heat shield to fit around my ARB aux tray. Max temp I've seen thusfar on the aux battery is 65C.
 

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I made a heat shield to fit around my ARB aux tray. Max temp I've seen thusfar on the aux battery is 65C.
Same when I had my Patrol.


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Problem with Lithium is that there is so much BS out there by people trying to sell them.
Find spec sheets on any brand your interested in and check out the operating temps.
Look at a few and work out which ones are more true than others.



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Problem with Lithium is that there is so much BS out there by people trying to sell them.
Find spec sheets on any brand your interested in and check out the operating temps.
Look at a few and work out which ones are more true than others.



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I don’t think that article is written by people trying to sell them. Which makes it interesting..
And I also wonder how much testing the manufactures carry out before specifying an operating temperature range for their battery.
Clearly, research and development is still ongoing with this chemistry.


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