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nissan patrol
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

Thought I might finally post up some pics of my GQ wagon as I have just finished building my custom winch bar, I think the bar looks pretty damn good for a first attempt. Might do a DIY if there's enough interest.

91 GQ LWB Wagon RB30s

Mods at the moment include:
3" Ultraflex coils rear
3" King springs Front
6" Ironman foam cell rear shocks
Supercrap winch
Custom front winch bar
33" BFG M/T
UHF
Narva 225's
Front Auto lokka
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks mate.

Best mod so far, unreal bang for your buck. The only place it ever lets me down is turning sharp up muddy off camber hills, it tends to plow forward rather than turning. This is because there is not enough traction for the lokka to unlock and both wheels move as if the center was welded. Solution is easy though unlock the outer hub of where you are turning and the inside wheel will drag you up easy.
 

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Hey mate loving the photos of the sliders progress, looking at doing the same myself soon. What thickness steel are you using.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
5mm plate, only because I have a huge sheet of it. Probably would recommend using a bit thicker, but then again the weight really starts to add up.
 

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Nice patrol mate, on my old 4runner i used a clamp on set up for my sliders and used 12mm flat bar and that still bent slightly when i came down on it, but brace the s**t out of it and should get away with it. good to see the outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update for my patrol!

After smashing a tail light, popping in a door, damaging the sills and mangling the rear quarters on a slippery night run, I got the motivation to build my slidders, cut the rear quarters and make a rear bar. So here goes...

The damage:






Slidders in progress:











 

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Nice!!

So what's the point of a dust cover chop on the shocks?

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The covers were catching on the springs due to the shocks being a larger diameter and me lifting the vehicle without adjusting the pinion angle.

I cut the covers off so they couldn't do any further damage to the shock i.e. bend the shaft, pierce a hole in the shock body, destroy the seals, get jammed open under flex. Only negative is mud can set on the shaft and can tear up the seals. I could buy rubber shock boots but meh.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Cheers for the comments guys, not sure what's next... Got some tube sitting here, might make a telescopic work light post.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I decided to clean up all the wiring I had running everywhere and fit twin dual piston compressors under the passengers seat.

Twin compressors mounted with one way valves and pressure cut off switch. It was a really tight squeeze to get them under there as the floor steps down and they can only be mounted on the lowest part or they foul the seat. I also had to modify the lever wire to be able to move the seat back and forward.








Made up a bit of a wiring loom to go from the four switches in the center console to a neat place behind the passenger kick panel. I have a Narva 150 amp 10 way fuse block going to the two 50 amp relays for the compressors, a relay for the rear work light, 2 spare relays for switchable accessory and couple spare slots for the UHF and 12V acc/usb plug.











I also downgraded the front speakers from 6.5" to 5.25" splits as the bigger, deeper speakers didn't clear the window winders enough and made putting the windows up a pain. The smaller speakers suit it better anyway, less doofdoof looking.







Random 4wding pic.

 
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