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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was hoping it wouldn't happen, but my Series 3 manual just went bang... :mad:

Beautiful girl, always cared for, driven easy and mostly on open road. NADS and all from 150k, serviced like a hooker, treated like a fair lady, 270K....

Nothing out of the ordinary, 100km/h, 5th cog, 15PSI, 350C EGR, slight incline, then all at once, loud ticking, loss all power, white smoke gallore!

Had it towed home. It can start and move slowly (on the driveway and back), but the motor wants to jump out of its skin. Pulled the dipstick out at idle, and its spitting oil, which says to me a pressurised sump, so likely has busted piston (or ring)....?

Also, oil (as in fluid, not saturated gas) has flowed at some decent rate into my provent 200. So perhaps a cracked head also. Radiator fluid unharmed it would seem (still bring green).

Havent pulled it apart yet, but I'm guessing, cracked piston, cracked head, most likely at No.4.

While I'm yet to confirm this all with an inspection....frankly, I'm devastated.

Am north of Brisbane. Thinking of a in-chasis rebuild, although its a little daunting... Even thought I've pulled apart motors before and did the NADS myself. Have read extensively on this forum (seriously, such brilliant collective information), although am almost at the stage of reader's fatigue, hence the post.

I'm keen to know if anyone can recommend a reliable and trusted mechanic 'trained in the art of zd30 rebuild'? OR failing that, a trusted stockist of a rebuild kit and a new head at OEM spec?

Thanks in advance.
Crunchy....

GU, Series III, 2003, Manual.
 

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Was there any warning signs before this happened, nothing out of the ordinary? Ie fuel usage greater?. Sorry to hear but at least fresh new donk coming up
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Motomuzz,
No warning signs at all, drove like my girl usually drives, solid and sound.
No greater fuel usuage either - always achieved around 10l per 100km on the highway.
 

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Sorry to hear, a possible just could be a long engine from Nissan. Drop I'm and off you go again. There pricing is pretty reasonable considering a new engine.
Just a thought as rebuilding with a workshop could get expensive.
Good luck
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Was there any warning signs before this happened, nothing out of the ordinary? Ie fuel usage greater?. Sorry to hear but at least fresh new donk coming up
Ha, when mine went years ago, I had just finished a 1000k trip home from a job, said to the missus, damn it went well, great fuel eco, got up the next morning and bang, with all the grand effects our new friend describes. Absolutely no warning.



For our new friend....... Sorry mate, but it happens when you least expect, welcome to our humble forum. If it was me doing it again it would be a crate motor (around 5g if shopped around) unless your adept and have facilities for doing it yourself.
 

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Which way to go?

When you find a mechanic, get a written quote on labour for just the head replacement and a quote for labour for the engine replacement.

As Geeyoutoo said, new long motors are at real good prices (which I went for when my one first motor decided to crack the head) or buy a rebuilt one, it will set you back around 4-4.5k and they just bolt on all your ancillary components.

I just had a Brand new assembled cylinder head (Mr Cylinder Head, Google it) and a Permaseal VRS kit installed on mine a few weeks back due to cracks on all the Glow plug holes and leaking a small amount of coolant.

The cylinder head and Permaseal VRS kit was $1700 and the labour was $1500, bit cheaper than a new long motor, but my motor only has 65k on it when the head decided to fail.

With the age of your motor and if you decide to keep the vehicle once repaired, I would buy a new water pump and add extra silicon to the coupling to ensure that it works correctly, and buy a genuine hi flow thermostat (not the non genuine hi flow, I had a 3degc increase / difference when at normal running temperature with the aftermarket one).

Then get the Radiator rodded to ensure that there is no blockages at all, mine had 40% blockage and the water temp always run at ~85-86Degc before rodding it. A new pressure and radiator cap is also a good idea and cheap insurance.

Be weary of a new cylinder head if non genuine, Mine had debris/swarf from machining inside mine which I noticed after changing the water pump a week after the head was installed.

Good luck in your decision making.

I was fortunate to get a dissasembled motor recently and was able to ship the head from it to the guy who sold me the New head, $100 bucks in my pocket. You might be able to do the same and get some money back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks guys,

Yeah its unfortunate when it happens – arggh, that sinking feeling……

I was thinking about a crate motor as an option, and with some calls today, turns out it may be a comparable cost to a rebuild.
A few mechanics have quoted around 7-10K+ for a rebuild including new head.
If I was to do it myself, I’d probably still be looking at 4-5K, plus sundries, beer, countless hours, bloody knuckles, and that constant feeling of ‘I hope she starts okay’. While I’ve pulled apart and repaired old holden motors in my day, this seems much more complex, so
hats off to all of you that have done it, seriously, excellent work). Frankly, I’m not feeling that confident, particularly if I’m going to be putting that type of money down anyway.

Confident with droppin a new donk in it though…

For a new crate motor, one dealer Nissan dealer quoted $11,200 inc…..
Another nissan dealer said $6,600 inc. (although they wouldn’t budge past that). I could also pick this up with my Dad’s ute.

I have seen them on ebay for slightly cheaper in Melbourne, but freight will make it comparable.

Anyone in the know of a dealer who could beat the price? Would drive a good distance to pick it up.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Using the search function I've found a heap of good advice on crate motors.

I'll keep in touch and let you know how it all goes.

Thanks for you comments guys.

Cheers
Crunchy!
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Using the search function I've found a heap of good advice on crate motors.

I'll keep in touch and let you know how it all goes.

Thanks for you comments guys.

Cheers
Crunchy!
Cool, good work.

I haven't really put anything about crate motors in the DI archives as the info just changes so often.
 

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Mine went years ago, sold the truck and purchased a 2005 4.2tdi but in saying that I really liked the way the 3.0l performed on the highway ( where most of my k's were, 1000k's per week). I got a headache reading all of the options that were available plus it was fairly expensive to rebuild it when it failed at the time, I think I have read on here somewhere that the 3.0l crd fits so maybe that is an option? Best of luck. Paul.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Mine went years ago, sold the truck and purchased a 2005 4.2tdi but in saying that I really liked the way the 3.0l performed on the highway ( where most of my k's were, 1000k's per week). I got a headache reading all of the options that were available plus it was fairly expensive to rebuild it when it failed at the time, I think I have read on here somewhere that the 3.0l crd fits so maybe that is an option? Best of luck. Paul.
Yes it fits, but it ain't easy, you have to change ECU as well and then you need a specific ECU if you can't get the original, I know 2 that have done it but they did it themselves and it took a lot of time and effort, not for everyone.
 

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Could you get a used CRD short motor and refit all the Di bits including the fuel system or are the heads different?
 

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Could you get a used CRD short motor and refit all the Di bits including the fuel system or are the heads different?
Way too much hassle.
 

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Sorry to hear mate... Yer I would be doing a crate motor or if your confident a rebuild..
As for changing to crd from di can be done but as stated the ecu and programing would be a nightmare.

SAW Troll
Scotty
 

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Hey Crunchy,
Sorry for your misfortune mate, devastating i know first hand! I have a build thread under 'my zd30 rebuild' to give you a heads up on how much is involved if your thinking about rebuilding one, but if not so confident then maybe a crate motor is the go...! Few of the boys on here i have seen have got a hold of well priced complete crate motors for only a few bucks more then the price of rebuilding it yourself, plus you save all the time and hassles so that may be ago.

Can i ask you something tho? Do u have a glow plug timer or switch to manually control the glow plugs? This is something i cant stress enough. Considering they have a alloy head and they stay on for around 5 minutes once started (i know, crappy design flaw by nissan but its part of there emission control). But personally this is too long and i and alot of us believe this is the reason for the heads cracking. As they are always at the glow plug hole.
If you dont have one id insist on installing one with your new head. I just installed a basic switch to turn my plugs on/off at my own will. Its quite easy to do and i can show you how if u want. Anyhow good luck with it all mate! Just ask if u need anything :)
 

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He can read all that info condensed in the NADS section of the DI archives, and as a newby I suggest he does that post haste :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks guys,

G'day Shano, no mate, I dont have a glow plug timer. I had wondered about that, especially after reading the good man Chaz' post on his in-cabin light to indicate when they're de-energised.
I was thinking though, with the types of combustion temperatures that would occur within 5 mins of starting and driving, would an energised glow-plug create that much of an impact on the cylinder alloy?
I had always thought that the crack between the glowplug and the exhaust outlet was the weakest structural point, and therefore most susceptible to the impact of pressure and heat when weren't going the way they were meant to. Just my thoughts is all.

But hey, anything that can be done in the way of preventative measure is always a beneficial move in my view, so once I get this back, that may well be on the cards.

Shano, I saw your rebuild post. Well done mate, I was quite impressed.

If anyone is interested in my grenaded zd30 when its out, please PM me. I dont want it sitting round after all this. I'm north of Brisbane, Samford way..


Cheers
Crunchy.
 

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In the event of terminal exit i would go new 3 litre.I have full confidence and the power and economy are second to none.

My mate Chris from tuff truck solutions did a 4.2 conversion using a GQ 4.2. he is handy but had some stumbles on the way to say the least, then comes the legals and engineering, oh my god.

have faith and dont be scared, all new tech diesels are time bombs. BETTER THE DEVIL YOU KNOW AND LOVE.
 
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