Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings all fellow troll lovers. My head has cracked again, pressurizing cooling system. The first time this happened was just after purchasing the vehicle and upon towing a off road camper... All info is in older posts if your bored and want a read.
My ZD-30 and I have filed for divorce and she is replaced by a 2010 Ford Barra engine. Dellows Conversions bell housing for the Barra to GU auto transmission. Wyong Automatics rebuilt my torque converter with a increased stall and adapted it to bolt to the Barra. Manning Valley off road supplied engine mounts with the Barra to GU bracket kit. COMPUSHIFT SPORT stand alone transmission controller with torque converter lockup and bluetooth app to change profiles ie: from off road to highway or towing. HP tuners, VCM editor and VCM scanner. Full aluminum TD45 radiator with twin thermal fans that fits GU with radiator hoses inlet out outlet that just happens to match the Barra engine.
This has turned out to be a huge and costly conversion. I have seen many NA and forced induction Barra to Patrol conversions on YouTube but they have all been with a 5 speed manual gearbox.
I'm hoping that somebody can offer some advice on the following..... I assume I'll need custom AC lines to go from the Ford AC compressor to the Patrols existing cooling system? If so, could you provide company's contact info.

Engine Technology Machine Iron Metal
2010 Barra. Rear sump hump and extended oil pickup was added to clear the front diff

Engine Automotive engine part Machine Automotive fuel system Nut
Jig to set the width of chassis mounts. The engine mounts needed to be shortened and adjusted to suit chassis mounts.

Red Machine Technology Gas Carbon
COMPUSHIFT SPORT mounted below the center console. Just so happens there are grommets that were utilized to feed RE404 control harness through the floor close to the gearbox.

I have transfered diesel from the AUX tank and pumped out fuel from the main tank, have installed a submerged 12v electric fuel pump with insulated bulkhead.
Engine has been test fitted with the chassis mounts tacked into position. The chassis mounts are now welded in and the torque converter has now been delivered. Hoping next time the engine goes in, will be the last time. For those that may be of interest, I'll follow up with more pix or the progress.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hey mate just looking for pointers on the angle of the motor before I weld mine in
Hey mate, I believe "they recommend" 5 degrees incline toward the front. I did need to have power steering lines altered to suit ford power steering pump. I needed to go with the high mount alternator as the engine would not fit between the chassis rails without having the steering pump mounted low. If you go with this option, here is the longer serpentine belt part number that you will need. (see attachment)
Good luck with your build, interested to know if your going with NA or forced induction, auto or manual transmission.
532618
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
55 Posts
How's the conversion going? I'm looking at doing the same thing and I'm on the central coast too so very interested in the guys you used for everything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
704 Posts
Any idea on costs so far ? just curious compared to price of a TD42, cummins 4.5 or a LS1 transplant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Any idea on costs so far ? just curious compared to price of a TD42, cummins 4.5 or a LS1 transplant.
How's the conversion going? I'm looking at doing the same thing and I'm on the central coast too so very interested in the guys you used for everything.
Hi Guys, The Barra is alive and well! I figure close to $10k is a fair estimate for the conversion. Manning Valley of road supplied the "kit" which consists of engine mounts, alternator, power steering mounts. As stated in earlier post, the alternator needs to be mounted up high as in its standard configuration, the engine is too wide to fit between the chassis rails. The oil reservoir tank for the power steering pump is removed from the ford pump and the original GU oil reservoir is used. A longer serpentine belt is used. (info in earlier posts)
Wyong Automatics in Sydney did a stall upgrade on the torque converter and adapted it to suit the Barra. $1200
Dellow's provided the bell housing and engine mounts but they were pretty crap! seriously just a plate bent at right angle without bracing. As my Troll is a auto there was additional costs. Torque converter was $1200. Compushift Sport transmission controller was $1800. Compushift is pretty kewl! Full auto and manual mode, customizable shift profile and TCC lock in auto mode, and being able to lock the torque converter for downhill decent is fantastic, nearly as good as a "manual gearbox". Compushift can be adjusted on the fly with bluetooth app on your phone. I brought a HP tuner MPVI-2 to disable PATS in the ford ECU. There were places in my home town that would charge $400 to make these changes and I figured that if changes were needed at a later date, then there's the cost greater than a tuner and lifetime credits licensed to the ECU. I have a dedicated fused power distribution with 7 relays for engine management. New full aluminum radiator with shroud and twin cooling fans. I think it was a TD / TB 45 radiator that just dropped in to existing mount for the GU. $350
Speedo was unaffected from the conversion as speed is taken from the transfer case. I brought a box that gave taco input to the cluster $200 Power steering lines needed needed to be remade as I just fudged the original lines to work with the ford pump to get me to the hydraulic hose shop. $400. The exhaust was done at a shop as it needed to exit the manifold on drivers side under the sump with a new CAT mandrel bends where the exhaust joined into the existing on the passenger side. That was about $600 including muffler. I also had to change the sump and windage tray with extended oil pickup. I needed a rear facing hump to clear the front diff. Again more expenses. front and rear crankshaft seals and new plugs and coil packs
The engine came from a 2010 SY territory with 210,000 km 190kw NA engine was supplied with enough wiring loom to make it run, ECU, pedal smart alternator control plug. There are just so many costs that you don't realize until you start a project. In summary I believe bang for your buck, a NA Barra conversion is the cheapest option. If you have a manual box, your not looking at a standalone transmission controller and upgraded torque converter. On highway driving at 100 k p/hr I'm getting 14 lt p/100km. Towing a off road camper trailer 19.5 lt p/100km.
Hoping some of this was useful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
704 Posts
Thanks mate, that's fairly reasonable considering it's for an auto, a manual would probably be a few grand cheaper.
 

·
Registered
CRD Wagon
Joined
·
1,460 Posts
Hi Guys, The Barra is alive and well! I figure close to $10k is a fair estimate for the conversion. Manning Valley of road supplied the "kit" which consists of engine mounts, alternator, power steering mounts. As stated in earlier post, the alternator needs to be mounted up high as in its standard configuration, the engine is too wide to fit between the chassis rails. The oil reservoir tank for the power steering pump is removed from the ford pump and the original GU oil reservoir is used. A longer serpentine belt is used. (info in earlier posts)
Wyong Automatics in Sydney did a stall upgrade on the torque converter and adapted it to suit the Barra. $1200
Dellow's provided the bell housing and engine mounts but they were pretty crap! seriously just a plate bent at right angle without bracing. As my Troll is a auto there was additional costs. Torque converter was $1200. Compushift Sport transmission controller was $1800. Compushift is pretty kewl! Full auto and manual mode, customizable shift profile and TCC lock in auto mode, and being able to lock the torque converter for downhill decent is fantastic, nearly as good as a "manual gearbox". Compushift can be adjusted on the fly with bluetooth app on your phone. I brought a HP tuner MPVI-2 to disable PATS in the ford ECU. There were places in my home town that would charge $400 to make these changes and I figured that if changes were needed at a later date, then there's the cost greater than a tuner and lifetime credits licensed to the ECU. I have a dedicated fused power distribution with 7 relays for engine management. New full aluminum radiator with shroud and twin cooling fans. I think it was a TD / TB 45 radiator that just dropped in to existing mount for the GU. $350
Speedo was unaffected from the conversion as speed is taken from the transfer case. I brought a box that gave taco input to the cluster $200 Power steering lines needed needed to be remade as I just fudged the original lines to work with the ford pump to get me to the hydraulic hose shop. $400. The exhaust was done at a shop as it needed to exit the manifold on drivers side under the sump with a new CAT mandrel bends where the exhaust joined into the existing on the passenger side. That was about $600 including muffler. I also had to change the sump and windage tray with extended oil pickup. I needed a rear facing hump to clear the front diff. Again more expenses. front and rear crankshaft seals and new plugs and coil packs
The engine came from a 2010 SY territory with 210,000 km 190kw NA engine was supplied with enough wiring loom to make it run, ECU, pedal smart alternator control plug. There are just so many costs that you don't realize until you start a project. In summary I believe bang for your buck, a NA Barra conversion is the cheapest option. If you have a manual box, your not looking at a standalone transmission controller and upgraded torque converter. On highway driving at 100 k p/hr I'm getting 14 lt p/100km. Towing a off road camper trailer 19.5 lt p/100km.
Hoping some of this was useful.
This reads like you stayed RE4?
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
55 Posts
Awesome thanks mate, I've had quite a few barras ranging from ba n/a, bf turbo ute, bf n/a and Territory turbo all auto the best combo was the territory turbo then the turbo ute with the zf6 I'd be interested in how the re4 goes with the barra as the ford 4 speed wasn't that good in my opinion.
I'm half way through chopping my wagon into a dual cab then I'm thinking it's barra time just not sure if it's worth the extra $$$ to get the zf too? I do like the idea of 6 speed and those boxes are tough as and oh so smooth
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
5,111 Posts
What made you decide to pay the extra for the compushift?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,335 Posts
well done.
the barra is amazing in a patrol, even better when turbo. the na is not to be outdone though.
i kept mine manual(for now) i have 2 spare re4's, i was planning to build one up with jd gear. They dont like the turbo barras unless they are full manual or have some dollars spent on the auto side of things.
fyi the alt does fit if left down low. i used all the manning valley gear however and moved mine up. also spaced the steering box 16mm to clear the turbo better even using mannings off set mounts.
at present my swap is about 13.
250kw/11psi.
i got a new plazmaman cooler so im going in for another choon to get up around the 280-300. fg egas with springs and oil gears. 3576 etc.
Ive been using mine more as a work daily again while my guys have the truck and i use around 18 combined and loaded. Havent towed anything yet heavier than my 1t scaffold trailer.

the zf6 snaps input shafts even on the turbo boxes on patrols with half decent power, so dollars still need to be spent on them, they are a nice box by all reports and are worth it over nissan manual or re4.

looking at your pics the engine mounts sit well above the chassis?! mine sat 10mm below top rail. how much space do you have behind the head?
 
  • Like
Reactions: schomy
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top