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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey all
looking to move the second battery from under the bonnet to the rear of the car. looking to get one of them battery boxs to put it in. then rewire all the accessories from that. probs run some either 4 or 6 gauge wires to the batteries. just wanna know how have people fixed them down??? cheers fellas
 

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I've got a optima yellowtop in the back of my wagon, I used a single run of 4g, which seems sufficient ATM. My battery box is fixed to my false floor with screws and the strap that came with the box holds the lid on and the battery in.

Just remember if you are putting the battery inside the cab, make sure it is a sealed gel cell, or else it has to be vented into the atmosphere...

Ush
 

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manuals the real mans choice
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If its in the vehicle make sure its a Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) or a gel cell battery. Preferrably a AGM as a true gel battery cannot handle the voltages from a alternator. Gel battery requires absorbtion maxium 13.6 from memory... whereas a alternator SHOULD put out 14.4-14.7volts

And no. A sealed marine battery can be a normal lead acid marine battery thats just maintenance free which still has a breather tube and vents inside the box.

Odyssey, Optima, deka, remco, fullriver etc sell AGM batteries that can be used.

I use 25mm^2 cable for my dual battery kit and it works well.. thicker is better. I just hate 6 gauge its like 16mm^2.

Goodluck
 

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naturally asthmatic
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Atibi (David) did this with his Safari a while ago becuase he needed the space his two batteries took for his WVO system. He could probably give you a few pointers to get it done.
 

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I've got 2 x 55AH maintanence free batteries in a storage locker behind my fridge, which are charged through a 6mm twin core (auto cable) wire run from the starter battery under the bonnet. The wire runs to a Merit plug in the back of the Patrol (which has a switch to isolate the start battery from the other two), then I have a lead which can be plugged in and runs to the two auxillary batteries.

Some say that you shouldn't have a maintanence free battery in the cab because of the gas they produce, however from all accounts this gas is very minimal, and if concerned you can attach a breather tube to the outside of the vehicle from the battery.

One word of warning, is to make sure you have a fuse or circuit breaker at both ends of your wire running between the two batteries (just prior to each battery).
 

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i just skrewed them down using tec skrews, have three battery boxes in the back, havnt managed to break one yet and the vehicle gets driven hard. They are the ones from BCF.
 

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I have both batteries in the cab as Canucks mentioned... Here's the link:
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/diy-...0/abitibis-safari-batteries-relocation-45271/

Since I've replaced this battery storage box with just 2 marine box until I design my new set up. I used either #1 or #2 cable, seems like the right thing to do especially that I have a 8274 waiting to be mounted. Most of the details are in my original post. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
looking for more room under the bonnet and attempting to make batteries last longer. the heat is killing them.
and so if i just ran a breather hose from box to outside should be all sweet.
cheers
 

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looking for more room under the bonnet and attempting to make batteries last longer. the heat is killing them.
and so if i just ran a breather hose from box to outside should be all sweet.
cheers
Oh yeah, you went a top mount turbo?

Even a dry cell in the cab would produce gas (according to attached article), and a vent might not be as simple as it sounds.

From; Battery Enclosures - Caravan and Motorhome Books

"Once a lead acid battery is charged beyond 70% (about 14.3 volts for a conventional 12-volt battery) it begins to give off hydrogen and oxygen. This gas is colourless and odourless and can be ignited at concentrations of about 4% (when mixed with air). It then burns with a sort of determined fizzle. But if ignited when the concentration exceeds 10% the explosion may blow a structure apart. The early airship industry experienced this in a tragic way."

"An RV battery enclosure may be relatively simple. It mainly requires that adequate fresh air enter the bottom, and the lighter and warmer gas allowed to escape to outside atmosphere via unrestricted outlets at the very top. But the RV industry has no standards regarding size, shape, or volume of battery enclosures, nor a guide to vent size.
The general practice is to provide a few 25 or so mm holes at the top and also close to the bottom of the enclosure, such that fresh air is drawn in and gases vented to the outside. But following legal advise, I cannot comment on the adequacy or effectiveness of this.
Several other matters need to be taken into account. Wind can generate areas of high pressure around the exit vents and can cause the rising gas to be 'pushed back' into the enclosure: no problem if adequate lower vents are provided - but many an enclosure is vented only at the top. If yours is like that, cut a few holes low down.



A 12 volt 100 amp/hr battery charging at a runaway 35 amps accepts about 14.4 volts X 35 amps/hour - approximately 500 watt/hr. It will produce about 100 litres of hydrogen/hour - requiring 5,000 litres of air/hour to dilute to 2%- or 1250 litres of air/hour to dilute to 4%."

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
you are correct high mount turbo. but this issue began along time before the turbo came along. getting hot and the old ones were leaking. due id say to heat causing the casing glue holding the top on to fail. ive wanted to do it for ages. plus i have other things id like to put there.
and that makes an interesting read there bruza. although sort of makes me wonder so many have done it without dramas so
 

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Heck! are you saying that before the turbo the heat was causing the glue to fail?
If so there must be something amiss, or you would see more talk on it.

Yeah it does make you wonder, re the article.

Just a thought if you go that way. You know the vent(s) on the rear. Inside, one is near the jack storing area. I wanted to take hot air away from my fridge and used that area, and a 12v fan to do so. Pulled the rubber off the base of the vent. If you undo the vent you will see what the rubber is 'supposed' to do.
Maybe a solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yeah could have just been dunger exide deep cycle batteries but had 2 leak. first one replaced under warrenty second. well dunno what im gonna do with it yet. but yeah used to get pretty hot even back then.
and well anyway il have a bit of a think about how to do it and where to vent it. see what i can come up with. might even just try a heat shield round the battery with a cold air duct and mayby a pusher fan.
 

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Benos,
like some of the others have said, I am using a boat battery box strapped down to false floor in the back of my wagon. I have had a yellow top Optima in there for about five years now connected to my fridge and HF radio. Optima are expensive but I have never had any problems with them. Never leak, charge up fast hold power for ages.
 
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