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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
hay guys i know this has been asked a 10000000 times but iam about to block of my egr valve but do i block it before or after the valve. in the pipe that comes around the back of the engine to the valve or from the valve to the intake manifold. thanks guys
 

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I have a ZD 30DI, is it easiest to block it at where the pipe comes around the back of the motor and bolts to the egr valve, or is it better to block it elsewhere, I'm unsure and was hoping someone could post a pic, don't want to get it wrong.:(
 

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You can block it at the exhaust manifold but when the egr valve opens you may loose a bit of boost pressure because the cross over pipe will fill up with charge air and drop pressure in your manifold so i think you are better blocking it @ the intake manifold. just my input help it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
vnt rod placement

hay guys i was just having a bit of a look at how to adjust the vnt with the limiting screw so when i block my egr i can do the adjustment. but when my car is at idle the vnt is all the way up touching the screw so when it boost wouldnt it go down away from the screw is this right. but iam sure when ive checked it before it was bouncing up and down
 

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ZD30 Out - L77 In!
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hay guys i was just having a bit of a look at how to adjust the vnt with the limiting screw so when i block my egr i can do the adjustment. but when my car is at idle the vnt is all the way up touching the screw so when it boost wouldnt it go down away from the screw is this right. but iam sure when ive checked it before it was bouncing up and down

Hi lg 91,
The actuator arm should be fluctuating up and down a bit after the engine warms up because there will be some EGR at warm idle. When the engine is cold, it should be hard up against the stop.


The arm should be up, so that there is fast spoolup and full boost until the ECU begins to manage boost when or after it peaks. Then the arm will fluctuate depending on EGR delivery, rpm and load, but you won't see it unless your on a dyno.

It really doesn’t matter where it’s blocked because it just stops the flow, but another good reason to block it at the top is so that oil doesn’t fill the EGR valve or it’s pipe as well as being the easiest place to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks for the reply chaz. but now iam a bit worried i checked it after i drove it home from work but the accuator is still hard up and not bouncing does it matter if it does not bounce up and down
 

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ZD30 Out - L77 In!
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thanks for the reply chaz. but now iam a bit worried i checked it after i drove it home from work but the accuator is still hard up and not bouncing does it matter if it does not bounce up and down
Hi lg 91,

It shouldn’t be a problem, but it pays to have a boost gauge fitted to see what’s going on. Mine use to fluctuate a bit after it warmed up, but not always. Try getting someone to bring the revs up a bit and watch the actuator for any movement. It should bounce around a bit and even if it doesn’t I wouldn’t worry unless your boost isn’t being controlled.

Without any boost control, you will get limp mode or fail safe issues. There have also been cases of the VNT mechanism seizing, but provided the actuator arm drops when you turn the engine off, that won’t be the case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks mate ive already got a boost gauge and it rarely boosts higher that 16 psi. the car drives fine iam just making sure i know how to andjust the vnt when i block the egr and fit the larger exhaust.

i read on another post of yours about 6psi at 1500 rpm and no more than 10psi at 2000rpm and mines preaty spot on the money. thanks chaz
 
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