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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How much heat to I need to bend the 4x4 shifter forward so I can lock it in (did a bodylift and have gearbox spacers)? I don't have an oxy but I do have one of those little "fat boy" braiser/blow torch thingys from Bunnings. Would that be enough or do I need the intesity of an oxy?
 

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Rogue
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Do you have a 4 pound hammer and a vice?
 

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nissan
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Cut the shifter half way through & bend foward. [easier to bend]
Check it in the patrol to make sure you got it right- rebend if necessary
When the shifter is right weld the cut.
If you dont have a welder you can take the shifter to a panel shop or garage & they will weld it for a few dollars
Cheers
 

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Yeah, just stick it in the vise, put a bit of pipe over it and take the strain and heat it with your little burner till it starts to bend while pulling on the pipe, should do it.:punkrock:
 

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easier in my opinion to cut a check out in the plate that covers the floor. I did. Just lift up your carpet, undo the bolts and cut. I also moved the boot back to cover it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well there you go, I didn't even know I could get the shifter out! Does it inscrew or something?
 

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from memory there's a bolt holding it on the shaft undo, disconnect linkage and it should lever off. Be careful if you go the bending route too much heat will melt the rubber bonding and not enough you risk snapping it. Also make several small bends checking clearances in between, you don't want it hitting the dash.
 

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BORDERTREK 4X4 & FABRICATION
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How much heat to I need to bend the 4x4 shifter forward so I can lock it in (did a bodylift and have gearbox spacers)? I don't have an oxy but I do have one of those little "fat boy" braiser/blow torch thingys from Bunnings. Would that be enough or do I need the intesity of an oxy?
They are hardened steel and hard to bend, you'll need a fair bit of heat.
Cut half way through like Zordo said, bend, then weld up the cut.
Work out where you need to cut it and how much to bend it first. Mark it then take it off the box. The cotter pins holding the shifter to the box can be bastards to remove too.
 

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Or you can remove the whole plate and move it, and re-secure it to the tunnel with tec screws and silicon to seal....
 

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Or you can remove the whole plate and move it, and re-secure it to the tunnel with tec screws and silicon to seal....
There'd be a big gap at the front to fill. I went through all this putting a GU box in my GQ. The shifters are 50mm further back on a GU box.
 

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Hey Fellas. What the F____k! Do the job properly and take the lever out of the vehicle, heat to cherry red with a torch and bend carefully. Let it cool slowly and replace. How difficult can that be? Cold bending or hammering can chrystalise the steel and it will break later on which will really piss you off. Take a bit off care. Cheers, Derb.
 

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how is the glossy black upper section bonded to the lower section? I cant see how to get it apart without destroying it.
I want to put the longer handle from a standard stick on the stubby lever so it can be reached without leaning forward.
 

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Hey Fellas. What the F____k! Do the job properly and take the lever out of the vehicle, heat to cherry red with a torch and bend carefully. Let it cool slowly and replace. How difficult can that be? Cold bending or hammering can chrystalise the steel and it will break later on which will really piss you off. Take a bit off care. Cheers, Derb.
Yep, this is how to do it. Also wrap a wet rag around the rubber isolated section to absorb some heat and help stop the rubber melting. Depending on the height of your body lift and whether you have gearbox spacers, you may not get away with just bending. I cut mine in half and welded in another piece of rod to give the stick a very severe "dog-leg". Do whatever you need to to avoid cutting the floor, you'll regret it!!

how is the glossy black upper section bonded to the lower section? I cant see how to get it apart without destroying it.
I want to put the longer handle from a standard stick on the stubby lever so it can be reached without leaning forward.
Can't seperate the upper section mate it's bonded with rubber as an isolator... cut both sticks and weld the longer section on.
 

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heating the shift "red hot" will melt the rubber making the shifter seperate (been there done that).
Yes i agree with not cutting the floor but whats wrong with cutting the plate that bolts into the floor? It isn't structual and mine looked factory when finished.
Anyway its personal preference which way you go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Cheers for the feed back guys. Can anyone tell me if a manual 4x4 shifter stick is the same as an auto 4x4 shifter stick? I might go to the wreckers and get one, modify it and just do a swap over.
 

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heating the shift "red hot" will melt the rubber making the shifter seperate (been there done that).
Yes i agree with not cutting the floor but whats wrong with cutting the plate that bolts into the floor? It isn't structual and mine looked factory when finished.
Anyway its personal preference which way you go.
The reson i didnt want to cut my floor is that the rubber boot wont fit anymore and will be the first place water will come in when river crossing.
 

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Hey Fellas. What the F____k! Do the job properly and take the lever out of the vehicle, heat to cherry red with a torch and bend carefully. Let it cool slowly and replace. How difficult can that be? Cold bending or hammering can chrystalise the steel and it will break later on which will really piss you off. Take a bit off care. Cheers, Derb.
I don't have an oxy. But I have tec screws and silicon. And with a 2" body lift, there is no gap. So for most of us, it's a good option.
 

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BORDERTREK 4X4 & FABRICATION
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Hey Fellas. What the F____k! Do the job properly and take the lever out of the vehicle, heat to cherry red with a torch and bend carefully. Let it cool slowly and replace. How difficult can that be? Cold bending or hammering can chrystalise the steel and it will break later on which will really piss you off. Take a bit off care. Cheers, Derb.
No-one was suggesting to cold bend it etc. With mine I cut it 3/4 the way through in the two spots I wanted to bend it so it bent easily, then welded it in the positions I wanted and let it cool at room temp. Did the wet rag thing too around the rubber boot to stop heat wrecking the rubber.
Mine wasn't for a body lift though, it was so I could get the GU transfer lever into low range without cutting into the actual trans tunnel of the floor. I did still have to cut some of the tunnel cover plate though.
 

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yep i moved(streeched) my boot over the cut out and re-scewed it down did let in a bit of water but that was sitting in a hole that was tail light deep with 2in body 2 and bit suspension and 35's, lol. The idea of lengthening the shifter's a good one, may have to pinch that.
 
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