I have a 93 TI which is a really dark metallic green, it looks black in most light.
The bonnet and top of the guards look terrible.
I pressure clean it occasionally and this takes most of the bubbles in the clear off, but after a while you can see the clear around these edges has lifted some more.
I want to remove the clear and give it a jam job in black. It doesnt have to be great
What is the best way? Sanding it? What grit?
My no means do I bneed a professional result, just so that it looks presentable from 10 metres or more.
hi mate, i have seen a panel bloke that i used to knock around about with and all he was using was a really good quality "very sticky" masking tape to get the bulk of it off, may or may not work in your situation but worth a shot, failing that sanding would be your only option.
If your original colour is as dark as you say, if you were good on the sanding and could get all the clear off yet not rubbing thru the base coat and use the same style of paint, im guessing it would be acrylic, you could just respray the base coat then clear it.
maybe start with like a 360 and see how you go, could go coarser and chase it up with something finer
You can see here, at the top of the A pillar it's green. Look down on the guard it's black (looks darker than in the photo).
Above the wheel arch is a large area of clear that has come off with a sticker.
I'll give the tape a try first then a razor blade and air then a sand. Thanks people.
It's getting a ute chop soon and I'll probably do it all in black enamel. It's going to get beat up in the scrub, it's just to make it look a bit less dodgy.
Not sure what they did with the roof but it's got a thick coating of something that has cracked up like a claypan.
That to me looks like badly applied clear coat. Or a bad batch of clear coat and it's simple broken down.
Unsual for a Japaneses cars early VN to VR commodores had a similar problem.
It's also a very likely sign it's been resprayed and again not applied correctly or cheap clear coat or clear coat that was incompatible with then base coat.
I finally got round to it, I used a razor blade scraper and the clear came off very easily on most of the bonnet. The back corners, the middle groove and the front were more stubborn so I scraped up to a straightish line and left them. I now have a mostly matte bonnet, it still looks dodgy but its not so obvious from a distance.
Thanks for the advice
hmm placing a solvent mix on paint work? that must be good....i can assume the only reason it stays shiny is because the oil in the diesel/oil mix, untill it evapourates thus lasting only a few days like you say
diesel polish. haha, I like it.
I gave it a going over with come cut polish after the photo which evened up some of the blotchiness.
I'm using the car this weekend then it's spending a couple of months in the shed.
No it wont......Some of you trerps think you know everything or like to think you know everything..How about some practical experience before you come up with all the answers..I have been doing this for years on the farm along with every other farmer that services his machinery and puts it in the shed ready for next season..I dont care if you like the idea or not,but if you dont know what you are talking about shut the fark up.
And one more thing as you say that i will never be able to respray if i wanted to,how many cars have you seen with petrol or diesal stains down the side of there car from over filling??Does'nt matter does it..Read what it says on the label of the polish you use and it will more than likely say that it contains DISTILLATES.........
My rant....Usually im pretty tolerant but some people are just born that way.......
Distillates are any number of hydrocarbon fractions derived from fractional distillation of crude oil.
This distillates found in polishing compounds are the lighter fractions designed to carry the waxes to all the surface to be polished. The waxes go hard and the distillates evaporate.
I'm more than happy to go into great depths of hydrocarbon chemistry if you. But if you think diesel is the same as a polish that contains distillates then you are completely wrong. Not wrong because I said so but because you have little no understanding of the chemistry except your own experience.
Look around and you will numerous cars where resprays have failed around the filler area. I have significant personal experience in automotive and industrial equipment resprays and have seen first hand what it can do in terms of paint reactions.
If rubbing diesel works for you that is wonderful I'm happy for you but there is a definite downside risk of serious paint contamination that can be very difficult to remove.
You do what ever you want to your own car but I will calmly suggest down side risks to other people if they choose to go down that path. I'm well within my rights and experience to indicate down side risks.
If you want anymore clarification feel free to PM me. I'm not having keyboard warrior fight over this.
Hopefully know one will follow your advice IPCH as it's the biggest load of sh it I've heard in years. If you can do a touch up with Super Cheap paint in a can and not be able to see where you have touched it up you either need glasses or have absolutely no idea what your looking at.
Paint wont stick to diesel or oil so if your painting over it I guarantee it would look like total crap and would come off with a pressure washer pretty quickly. If your going to give advice I'd highly recommend you know what your talking about first as this sort of advice could cost someone thousands of dollars if it's not cleaned off properly prior to painting when they do decide to fix there blistering clear.
So Justin is correct and for the record I have over 15 years experience in Automotive painting and as a Technical Rep running around solving and fixing paint defect problems and a lot of them come from people like yourself with your silly paint repair remedies.
Cheers Mick.
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