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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This has been done to death I know and I have read a lot of posts on this subject but just a bit confused on where to block.

Firstly on the CRD its easier to block the EGR off at the firewall area but is that the best place to block it, other posts have indicated blocking it at both ends, which ends ?? as there are more than two places it can be blocked. Some members experience a DTC after the egr block on the CRD, is this common and is there anything else that should be done at the same time when blocking the egr

Secondly as I have read in previous posts the butterfly valve on the ZD30 patrol is only there to close off air when shutting the vehicle down and has nothing to do with EGR, can this be confirmed........as I was wondering whether the valve plate should be removed like the navara mod.
 

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Block it off where the pipe meets the valve itself. Chipit sell aluminum block off plates that crush in to seal off completely (Used one on my Navara). Reuse the gasket that is there on valve face side.

The block off plate is worth the $35 and I know you can make a stainless one for next to nothing. To be certain you have no leaks with the stainless two gaskets one either side of the plate needs to be used. Nissan charge 30 something dollars for the gasket so the aluminum block plate looks the go.

I have not bothered to remove the butterfly plate from either the EGR valve on my 2008 CRD patrol or Navara D22.

Have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Block it off where the pipe meets the valve itself. Chipit sell aluminum block off plates that crush in to seal off completely (Used one on my Navara). Reuse the gasket that is there on valve face side.

The block off plate is worth the $35 and I know you can make a stainless one for next to nothing. To be certain you have no leaks with the stainless two gaskets one either side of the plate needs to be used. Nissan charge 30 something dollars for the gasket so the aluminum block plate looks the go.

I have not bothered to remove the butterfly plate from either the EGR valve on my 2008 CRD patrol or Navara D22.

Have fun.
BradM
Does your CRD patrol throw codes with the EGR blocked and what is the major difference you have noticed since the mod, just a bit worried about the boost spikes when towing.
 

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I blocked mine where the EGR meets the exhaust manifold on one side and where the EGR meets the intake manifold on the other ....not at the EGR itself..... blocking it at the EGR itself means hot exhaust gas enters the EGR pipes and retracts and on the inlet side it is just wasting boost into the EGR pipes.

I actually think some of the boost spiking could be created by people blocking it at the EGR itself so the inlets fill with pressure and when you lift off this pressurised air shoots back up the pipe either into inlet manifold ( inlet side ) or back through turbo ( exhaust side )

hope that makes sense.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Without attracting flames, why would you want to block the egr anyhoo??
It keeps hot dirty gases out of the inlet tract, it can help the turbo spool up quicker, it causes your oil to stay cleaner for much longer. Do a search, there is a wealth of info here on every aspect of this.
 

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BradM
Does your CRD patrol throw codes with the EGR blocked and what is the major difference you have noticed since the mod, just a bit worried about the boost spikes when towing.
Does throw up the odd P0401 EGR error code but I bought a scangaugeII and that clears it. No boost spikes at all on the 2008 CRD and I tow 2,500 kg caravan around with it.

I block it at the valve so the pressurized air from the turbo does not rush down the pipe to fill it when the EGR valve opens, possibly creating a flatspot as it is a long pipe coming from the other side of the engine.

It has been really noticeable on the Navara for power and smoothness. I already had the 3" system and chip on when I did it on the Patrol so it was not so noticeable but there are a lot of benefits in doing it. I documented them in a previous post.

Heating up the block plate is insignificant compared to the exhaust gas flowing into the cylinders. Also there is a water radiator cooling the pipe on the drivers side before the EGR valve.

Block it off as it is one of the best mods at next to no price. If you have ever pulled down an engine and seen the stuff in the inlet manifold, head and cylinders from the EGR gasses then you would not hesitate.

Up to you mate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Does throw up the odd P0401 EGR error code but I bought a scangaugeII and that clears it. No boost spikes at all on the 2008 CRD and I tow 2,500 kg caravan around with it.

I block it at the valve so the pressurized air from the turbo does not rush down the pipe to fill it when the EGR valve opens, possibly creating a flatspot as it is a long pipe coming from the other side of the engine.

It has been really noticeable on the Navara for power and smoothness. I already had the 3" system and chip on when I did it on the Patrol so it was not so noticeable but there are a lot of benefits in doing it. I documented them in a previous post.

Heating up the block plate is insignificant compared to the exhaust gas flowing into the cylinders. Also there is a water radiator cooling the pipe on the drivers side before the EGR valve.

Block it off as it is one of the best mods at next to no price. If you have ever pulled down an engine and seen the stuff in the inlet manifold, head and cylinders from the EGR gasses then you would not hesitate.

Up to you mate.

Where is the egr valve, I see the cooler so is the valve in front of that.........or on the other side of the motor ??
I see some block it off at the inlet and exhaust side, any chance you can explain exactly where these places are.
 

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Follow the EGR radiator forward to where it meets the valve. Roundish fitting with upper and lower bolt fixing the pipe to the valve. Don't have any pictures sorry. See where the air comes off the intercooler, it goes into the valve body as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Follow the EGR radiator forward to where it meets the valve. Roundish fitting with upper and lower bolt fixing the pipe to the valve. Don't have any pictures sorry. See where the air comes off the intercooler, it goes into the valve body as well.

OK so you dont block it off at the firewall which is the easiest point but at the front of the cooler, is it just a case of undoing those two bolts and sliding in the blocking plate or do you have to loosen the cooler by undoing the rear bolts as well.
I will assume you take the intercooler off just to make the job a bit easier ?
 

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Take the intercooler off. Quick 5 minute job and makes things a lot easier. 3 bolts hold things together from the pipe to valve. One bolt is in the top and holds the pipe to motor. Lever pipe off valve and with screwdriver into top hole slightly line up the plate and two gaskets. Use the screwdriver through the top hole to hold in place while you line up the bottom and put bolt in. Screw up a bit then put bolt in top. Screw them down and then reinsert and screw up top bolt. All blocked off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Doing the mod tomorrow, son works at sheetmetal fab place so he's making up a plate so with a bit of luck no more black crap up the inlet from now on. Will be giving the patrol some new oil and filter then monitor :D Thanks for your help brad and others.
 

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I have the ZD30 with 325k and thinking of doing the egr block. now as i am a nubi...i may ask some basic (dumb) questions so please be patient.
I have been shown where the egr valve is. I have now read about a compressable aluminium plate that can compress and seal. I have been shown to block the vacume line and its actuator closest the firewall. Recently i had injector oil seals replaced and during this process i saw the black gunk built up in part of the manifold. So.... is it wise during the blocking procedure to dismantle the inlet manifold and clean it completely? Is this a layperson with a bit of mecahcnical experience can do?
NExt.... i read about daw valves and needles and things to help stop turbo issues.
I dont understand what dawes and the nedle valve things are all about and if it is neccessary for me to know or do anythng about. People talk of measurements and psi...and temperatures.. i have none of these gauges...are they neccessary or can i just use the kiss principal and just block off the egr and thats that? A mechanic quoted me between 3-500 to do the job including cleaning the manifold by soaking it. Id appreciate some clarity on this if you can please. Cheers
 

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I have the ZD30 with 325k and thinking of doing the egr block. now as i am a nubi...i may ask some basic (dumb) questions so please be patient.
I have been shown where the egr valve is. I have now read about a compressable aluminium plate that can compress and seal. I have been shown to block the vacume line and its actuator closest the firewall. Recently i had injector oil seals replaced and during this process i saw the black gunk built up in part of the manifold. So.... is it wise during the blocking procedure to dismantle the inlet manifold and clean it completely? Is this a layperson with a bit of mecahcnical experience can do?
NExt.... i read about daw valves and needles and things to help stop turbo issues.
I dont understand what dawes and the nedle valve things are all about and if it is neccessary for me to know or do anythng about. People talk of measurements and psi...and temperatures.. i have none of these gauges...are they neccessary or can i just use the kiss principal and just block off the egr and thats that? A mechanic quoted me between 3-500 to do the job including cleaning the manifold by soaking it. Id appreciate some clarity on this if you can please. Cheers
Not that it makes a lot of difference, but what year model is yours, with 325,000k it must be a fairly early one with the ECU that has limited boost control.
The gunk that builds up in the manifold can be problematic and is a contributing factor to the Grenade problem, but only a contributor, cleaning at the same time would be a good idea.
Block the EGR where it meets the inlet manifold at the valve itself, don't worry about anywhere else. It is all quite daunting to start with but not really that hard, allow plenty of time and do things in a logical progression when you start.

Depending on where you live there are many guy's who will help you out for a case, apart from that read all you can, visit peoples "garages", mine is in my signature and read this sticky, post #1 has the actual link to the "Bible" which you can download. http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/niss...ument-zd30-owners-look-here-31418/index3.html

The order to do things on your vehicle if you truly want to do it, is:
EGT gauge (by doing this first you get to see the effect of all the changes you are about to make, a real eye opener)
Boost gauge
Catch can
Block EGR (clean Intercooler and inlet tract)
Dawes and Needle valve (with needle inside the cab and the dawes bypassing the Vacuum solenoid switch).

If you can afford it, an ECUTalk is a great investment as well for the instant info you get out of the ECU, it also saves on buying other gauges like temp and volts etc.

Also regularly cleaning the MAF with good quality cleaner such as CRC CO Contact Cleaner is a good habit, I do mine every 10,000 clicks.

You will feel a difference in the performance of the vehicle with this work, but after this you can move onto things that really make a difference like exhaust and Intercooler, to start with ;)

Don't worry about asking "dumb" questions, as long as you show you take the time to help yourself there are plenty of people here to answer any questions. We all started out with "Dumb" questions.......:eek:

Enjoy
 
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