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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
I have removed all the bolts from a LWB MK patrol and I can't get the body to Separate from the chassis.

Any ideas? Cars in pieces right now
 

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nissan
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What are you using a trolley jack on the body and the body is bringing the chassis up with it? \
try a tyre lever or crow bar to prise them appart.
 

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nissan
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Shure you have all the bolts out? Sorry had to check.
also steering column to box, Fuel filler hose?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·


Sneaky
That a factory side step that is attached to the body only but fouls right there.

Spend a bit under the car trying to figure it out and finally saw it.
 

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Ouch dude, i know that feeling... There is always something thats gotta be there to make you second guess yourself
Good job on finding it, hope the body lift works well for ya.. Im thinking lower for my MK atm... im over height atm, especially 2" shackles, they seem to create too many problems on the road IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's why the body lift went in so I could get rid of the shackles
Car handled like crap
 

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Yeah good call, well the shorty is both of those atm, but thinking of lowering onto standard shackles. She even has 3 degree castor wedges and still no better...
Castor is wayyy outta wack and cannot find centre even if jammed between two parralel walls.
 

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I removed my extended shackles after they murdered my shackle mounts...
I then welded 65x65mm 5mm wall box tube to the chassis and the shackle mount to that about 15mm back. This way I retained the lift of the shackle and improved handling.

Flexes really well in the front.

Castor is a little out but doesn't wander all over the road. I can sit on 120 and it is reasonable steady.
It still 30 years old, on 35's.

You really need to move the shackle mounts back in order to allow the leaf spring to articulate correctly.
A poor shackle angle will increase the spring rate - resulting in harsh ride and poor handling.

 

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CRD Wagon
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To add fuel to the extended shackle fire, and to add to what Landy has said about suspension travel, and why I like body lifts:

Body lift or guard cutting is the best way to clear larger tires. Suspension lifting the car will only go part of the way, whilst the car is at rest. Why?

The suspension will still cycle back to its original compressed position if the lift kit is good (and you will scrub tires on flex!) If it doesn't you've lost travel from stock....

This is the way its been described to me:

Take your compressed and uncompressed suspension lengths, this is your overall wheel travel. Ride height will be say 4 inches from all the way extended (droop), with 4 inches of compression.

A lift kit will increase the spring rate so that you are at say 3 inches away from your full droop at ride height, and you now have 5 inches of compression travel. This can be a good thing for handling dirt roads and comfort, as you have more compression travel before you bottom and to soak the bumps.

Suspension travel from leaf springs is determined by your shackle angle, shackle length and spring length.

Increasing spring length allows a longer shackle, relative to where the spring hanger is, plus the spring itself works more, longer shackles at good angle (especially set aggressively for droop) also bring your articulation. But the further you go the less compression travel you get.

If the shackle is vertical as shown in the Landy's picture, you take away ride comfort as well as articulation, because the shackle cannot work over its range.



I'd say shoot for a 45 degree shackle angle with longer shackles if you wanna go after travel. This will likely involve fab, fitting a longer spring, or shortening the eye to eye distance as per landy.

Thats why we body lift or cut to clear tires, because good suspension should retain the same amount of travel, yet we are keeping its ending points and physical obstructions in the same spot unless we bumpstop (lose compression travel) or body lift (keep the travel and move the obstructions away)

Sorry if that makes no sense at all.
 
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