When setting up manual boost control it helps to keep the length of tube between Dawes/Tillix as short as possible. Got a pic of your setup?
Interesting, not much in there to wear out, ball and a spring. It is possible for the seat to be contaminated so a strip down and clean often helps, there is a how to among my chanel video clips.Thanks for everyone's help and sorry for the late reply. I consulted the workshop that tuned the car and it was recommended to me that the dawes valve is likely worn out, so I've ordered a tillix kit. I'll fit that and see what happens. Cheers
Ah didn't know that. That's alright, I've heard tillix is better anywayInteresting, not much in there to wear out, ball and a spring. It is possible for the seat to be contaminated so a strip down and clean often helps, there is a how to among my chanel video clips.
Not better, I've run both over the years and didn't find a difference, they both work on the same principle. By all means fit the Tillix but don't throw the Dawes away, pull it apart and have a look and maybe learn something.Ah didn't know that. That's alright, I've heard tillix is better anyway
Nothing wrong with Dawes 3barracing (black body). Sounds like someone trying to find fault in the tool and not ones own work.Ah didn't know that. That's alright, I've heard tillix is better anyway
Hi Hewylewy, a few questions about the JRP 14-in-1 as a gauge set to support the Tillix installation :I have the 14 in 1 JRP gauge ...The boost gauge seems to react quite quickly.
I compared the boost reading to the ECUtalk reading it is very close.Hi Hewylewy, a few questions about the JRP 14-in-1 as a gauge set to support the Tillix installation :
1. Which sensors did you install? and how easy was the overall installation (sensors, gauges, plumbing/wiring)?
2. How responsive are the gauges? and how accurate do they seem?
3. Where have you placed the monitor screen?
4. Any other comments on this gauge?
Thanks