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GU IV 4.2
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That link for gcg, in the pictures it doesn't show the turbine housing? Sparesbox had a listing for around $2800 but says (less turbine housing)

Maybe I am missing something?
 

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Good question, did you mean the 2nd pic? My guess is they are using a generic pic for all the listings as there's various housing options. The listing says does include a bearing housing, believe that's whats shown with the wheel mounted in. I cant answer this any better you'd need to call them or hopefully someone else can chime in. I got mine from the states in 2017 not from GCG. I think it's good to go Aussie distributed product if the price competitive? Now since your question I'm not 100% sure the GCG price is complete but my guess is it is ?
 

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Thanks oldmav. As said I'm not particularly in the market but just thought the price was a lot higher than I remembered when I seen $4k and was definitely out of the market then lol
 

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Hope this is worth all the effort.
534189


Im thinking about doing this myself. With the engine still in place, can I just slide the camshaft forward far enough to turn it one tooth without the followers dropping off the cam lobe, or do I need to remove the gear from the camshaft. Do I need to remove the rocker levers to take the load off the camshaft or will I be able to turn it with rockers installed.
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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Discussion Starter · #1,887 ·
In my view, it is definately worth the effort. On my engine it was quite noticeable.

I had to actually change the gear to a Silvertop one (to get my tacho to work in the GQ), rather than just rotate the standard one. To be honest, I do not remember exactly what I did. But the other option would be to remove the idler and rotate the crank. No need to pull the cam out then. I did not have any trouble I do remember that much. LOL

I have discussed this with Oldmav some time ago, when we were first discussing this mod. I cannot remember what he told me about it but as I recall it is not difficult. Send him a PM to see what he has done.
 

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In my view, it is definately worth the effort. On my engine it was quite noticeable.

I had to actually change the gear to a Silvertop one (to get my tacho to work in the GQ), rather than just rotate the standard one. To be honest, I do not remember exactly what I did. But the other option would be to remove the idler and rotate the crank. No need to pull the cam out then. I did not have any trouble I do remember that much. LOL
I didnt think of pulling the idler and changing it that way. My biggest concern is getting the vibration damper off in place. Its never been removed.
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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Discussion Starter · #1,889 ·
If it is that old and you are running up towards 200kw then Oldmav reckons you should replace it. Good protection for your crank and they do not last forever.

And yes they can be a mongrel to get off. I reckon once you get the net off and give the balancer a whack, you can often feel the lock ring a bit loose, but cannot get it out. Vice grips help with this I found.
 

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If it is that old and you are running up towards 200kw then Oldmav reckons you should replace it. Good protection for your crank and they do not last forever.

And yes they can be a mongrel to get off. I reckon once you get the net off and give the balancer a whack, you can often feel the lock ring a bit loose, but cannot get it out. Vice grips help with this I found.
The first challenge will be getting the nut off. Being Auto, I cant just jam it in gear and not sure if there is room to get the rattle gun in there. I could try and jam the flex plate up at one of the torque converter mounting bolts, but worried about bending the sandwich plate. I still need to have a good look at how much room I have.
 

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So, just finished reading this thread from start to finish. Not as long to read as the manifold thread, but wow, some technicality in this one. My head is spinning on lots of acronyms' EFR, EMP, etc..

Thank you for all having a crack at completing something different and what appears to have made work.

I am looking to formulate some big changes on my truck next year after I move house so will leave a full list of questions I have and insert into t a "re-build thread", but whilst the information is still hot in my head I would like something from the left field answered if possible.

Am I better off waiting to see what Garrett bring out with an E-Turbo and see how that pans out (I am not scared of giving something a crack), or run with what everyone has completed on here and install a BW? Looking as you all have to get as much low down Torque as you all have.

I like the thought concept around running a turbo ramped initially by our 12v system before the exhaust gases take over. Just unsure if it would be a fit for our trucks as I haven't completed a heap of research into it yet. Just wondering if anyone else has.

Sorry if this is asked somewhere else in the forum.

Thanks.
 

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So messaged Garrett, no go on the E-Turbo. They are only selling them to manufacturers at the moment, not looking to sell for aftermarket.

Looks like I may follow the people in this thread down the rabbit hole.
 

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So messaged Garrett, no go on the E-Turbo. They are only selling them to manufacturers at the moment, not looking to sell for aftermarket.

Looks like I may follow the people in this thread down the rabbit hole.
Maybe wreckers could have an e turbo, I'd assume the charging system would have to be top notch, be interesting how much juice they'd need to get them started and being diesel it would only be the initial burst from 900- 1700 rpm
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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Discussion Starter · #1,900 ·
Not sure I follow your R&D comment. I am not sure there is much left to learn about the 6758.

The interchiller thing is new to me. I know of it, but little else. As for everything else, it depends on how far you want to go, and if you have budget restraints. The best result will be had from attending to all the small things, like always!
 
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