You will need a manual boost controller so you can approach 22 psi. You dont want to be winding on preload on a 14psi actuator. you will run out of travel to keep EMP at a respectable level. You should have the 21 psi actuator and 1 to 1.5 turns on the preload. But a 14 might get you there with enough fuel. I use and always recommend a electronic controller and a turbosmart dual port actuator. Do it once do it right. Poor man always buys twice.
Basically you want the pin set to the deepest position then wind down the star wheel and wind up the no boost fuel screw to its max out position. You set the star wheel so when you put the top on you have a bit of spring pressure on the cap. the star wheel should be down about 15mm from the top pin tube if you have a std spring.
Then you screw in the main fuel screw until you cannot adjust the idle down any more then wind out the fuel screw about 1/2 a turn and then adjust the idle to 750 rpm. Then go for a blast loading it up in 4th gear adjust boost to about 21 to 22 as that is about the max boost you will get with your 14psi actuator. The boost should get to 20 ish by about 2000 rpm and hold 20 ish out to 3800 a drop of 1 or 2 psi is fine because this telling you have EMP respectable. If is drops lower then this is telling you your actuator is not holding or you have over the top EMP (not enough travel). Or your pump is tied or you don't have enough static timing and and etc etc on and on its all a bit different for each motor condition or filter or tyre size or wind resistance or weight of rig on and bloody on..
Then you wind down your no boost screw to adjust when your spool point starts or if you are all crossed up OCD about smoke, so that's is up to you and your OCD,. but i keep winding the screw down until i am happy with spool start rpm, i like it to start feeling spool power at about 1500 ish rpm. This is where i use a timed distance on the road in 3rd gear, or use a Iphone pocket dyno to do acceleration times 20 to 80klms.
But doing this i always have a portable AFR meter to check i am moving in the right direction for fueling or at least a EGT gauge to know when i am approaching silly EMP:IMP ratio. But to be safe i pull out the EGT probe which is always fitted pre turbo in the manifold next to the outlet between 2 and 3 ports close to number 3 outlet. I plug in a fitting with about 700mm of 1/4 copper tube then fit a boost gauge to the tube. I thinks is respectable to see 28 to 30 psi in the exhaust manifold at 3800rpm , less is good.
Doing all that with a good IP, you should be at about 125 to 135 rwkw. But the EFR is not about its ability to produce power/torque bragging rights. The EFR is about the absolute unbeatable spool response and drivability. Its not the best turbo at seeing your boost gauge needle doing a Gfu@k instant boost rise off idle rpm, but doing nothing for going forward, boost is a measure of nothing on a engine or turbo. And it probably isn't the best turbo for off idle response but you will not fine a better turbo for 60 to 80klm times or 80 to 120 klm times. Or its instance accelerations above 1800 rpms. That is why you have chosen a EFR ball bearing turbo.
Then if you want to improve early to midrange spool so you have the very best turbo you go and spend another $250 and get a SX-E style compressor cover which has a Map extension slot and 3.5 inch inlet flange, (this cover eliminates that annoying intake noise so you now can here the ball bearing spool sound) which will give you even better drivability. I assume this cover works on a 11mm IP as i haven't tested one as yet, i have only tested the cover on a 12mm IP and 200rwkw TD.
Basically you want the pin set to the deepest position then wind down the star wheel and wind up the no boost fuel screw to its max out position. You set the star wheel so when you put the top on you have a bit of spring pressure on the cap. the star wheel should be down about 15mm from the top pin tube if you have a std spring.
Then you screw in the main fuel screw until you cannot adjust the idle down any more then wind out the fuel screw about 1/2 a turn and then adjust the idle to 750 rpm. Then go for a blast loading it up in 4th gear adjust boost to about 21 to 22 as that is about the max boost you will get with your 14psi actuator. The boost should get to 20 ish by about 2000 rpm and hold 20 ish out to 3800 a drop of 1 or 2 psi is fine because this telling you have EMP respectable. If is drops lower then this is telling you your actuator is not holding or you have over the top EMP (not enough travel). Or your pump is tied or you don't have enough static timing and and etc etc on and on its all a bit different for each motor condition or filter or tyre size or wind resistance or weight of rig on and bloody on..
Then you wind down your no boost screw to adjust when your spool point starts or if you are all crossed up OCD about smoke, so that's is up to you and your OCD,. but i keep winding the screw down until i am happy with spool start rpm, i like it to start feeling spool power at about 1500 ish rpm. This is where i use a timed distance on the road in 3rd gear, or use a Iphone pocket dyno to do acceleration times 20 to 80klms.
But doing this i always have a portable AFR meter to check i am moving in the right direction for fueling or at least a EGT gauge to know when i am approaching silly EMP:IMP ratio. But to be safe i pull out the EGT probe which is always fitted pre turbo in the manifold next to the outlet between 2 and 3 ports close to number 3 outlet. I plug in a fitting with about 700mm of 1/4 copper tube then fit a boost gauge to the tube. I thinks is respectable to see 28 to 30 psi in the exhaust manifold at 3800rpm , less is good.
Doing all that with a good IP, you should be at about 125 to 135 rwkw. But the EFR is not about its ability to produce power/torque bragging rights. The EFR is about the absolute unbeatable spool response and drivability. Its not the best turbo at seeing your boost gauge needle doing a Gfu@k instant boost rise off idle rpm, but doing nothing for going forward, boost is a measure of nothing on a engine or turbo. And it probably isn't the best turbo for off idle response but you will not fine a better turbo for 60 to 80klm times or 80 to 120 klm times. Or its instance accelerations above 1800 rpms. That is why you have chosen a EFR ball bearing turbo.
Then if you want to improve early to midrange spool so you have the very best turbo you go and spend another $250 and get a SX-E style compressor cover which has a Map extension slot and 3.5 inch inlet flange, (this cover eliminates that annoying intake noise so you now can here the ball bearing spool sound) which will give you even better drivability. I assume this cover works on a 11mm IP as i haven't tested one as yet, i have only tested the cover on a 12mm IP and 200rwkw TD.