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You will need a manual boost controller so you can approach 22 psi. You dont want to be winding on preload on a 14psi actuator. you will run out of travel to keep EMP at a respectable level. You should have the 21 psi actuator and 1 to 1.5 turns on the preload. But a 14 might get you there with enough fuel. I use and always recommend a electronic controller and a turbosmart dual port actuator. Do it once do it right. Poor man always buys twice.

Basically you want the pin set to the deepest position then wind down the star wheel and wind up the no boost fuel screw to its max out position. You set the star wheel so when you put the top on you have a bit of spring pressure on the cap. the star wheel should be down about 15mm from the top pin tube if you have a std spring.

Then you screw in the main fuel screw until you cannot adjust the idle down any more then wind out the fuel screw about 1/2 a turn and then adjust the idle to 750 rpm. Then go for a blast loading it up in 4th gear adjust boost to about 21 to 22 as that is about the max boost you will get with your 14psi actuator. The boost should get to 20 ish by about 2000 rpm and hold 20 ish out to 3800 a drop of 1 or 2 psi is fine because this telling you have EMP respectable. If is drops lower then this is telling you your actuator is not holding or you have over the top EMP (not enough travel). Or your pump is tied or you don't have enough static timing and and etc etc on and on its all a bit different for each motor condition or filter or tyre size or wind resistance or weight of rig on and bloody on..

Then you wind down your no boost screw to adjust when your spool point starts or if you are all crossed up OCD about smoke, so that's is up to you and your OCD,. but i keep winding the screw down until i am happy with spool start rpm, i like it to start feeling spool power at about 1500 ish rpm. This is where i use a timed distance on the road in 3rd gear, or use a Iphone pocket dyno to do acceleration times 20 to 80klms.

But doing this i always have a portable AFR meter to check i am moving in the right direction for fueling or at least a EGT gauge to know when i am approaching silly EMP:IMP ratio. But to be safe i pull out the EGT probe which is always fitted pre turbo in the manifold next to the outlet between 2 and 3 ports close to number 3 outlet. I plug in a fitting with about 700mm of 1/4 copper tube then fit a boost gauge to the tube. I thinks is respectable to see 28 to 30 psi in the exhaust manifold at 3800rpm , less is good.

Doing all that with a good IP, you should be at about 125 to 135 rwkw. But the EFR is not about its ability to produce power/torque bragging rights. The EFR is about the absolute unbeatable spool response and drivability. Its not the best turbo at seeing your boost gauge needle doing a Gfu@k instant boost rise off idle rpm, but doing nothing for going forward, boost is a measure of nothing on a engine or turbo. And it probably isn't the best turbo for off idle response but you will not fine a better turbo for 60 to 80klm times or 80 to 120 klm times. Or its instance accelerations above 1800 rpms. That is why you have chosen a EFR ball bearing turbo.

Then if you want to improve early to midrange spool so you have the very best turbo you go and spend another $250 and get a SX-E style compressor cover which has a Map extension slot and 3.5 inch inlet flange, (this cover eliminates that annoying intake noise so you now can here the ball bearing spool sound) which will give you even better drivability. I assume this cover works on a 11mm IP as i haven't tested one as yet, i have only tested the cover on a 12mm IP and 200rwkw TD.
 
Thanks Shane. I beaded the tube today and did another short test drive. Much better. Max boost I could reach was 18, but then ran out of road. The car does drive better. It holds and picks up much better during gear changes, if you know what I mean. It also lugs along easier at low rpm and no boost, which I put down to less resistance in the overall gas flows. The turbo is not as loud as others have described, but perhaps I haven't worked it hard enough yet. I think it needs more fuel now to get it to pull harder. I'll leave that until I have given it a good run over the weekend, and then do some experimenting. I don't think I have unlocked its potential yet, but so far so good. I suspect a bit of trial and error will be involved. I would never have ventured this way had it not been for the info and support gleaned here.
 
You will need a manual boost controller so you can approach 22 psi. You dont want to be winding on preload on a 14psi actuator. you will run out of travel to keep EMP at a respectable level. You should have the 21 psi actuator and 1 to 1.5 turns on the preload. But a 14 might get you there with enough fuel. I use and always recommend a electronic controller and a turbosmart dual port actuator. Do it once do it right. Poor man always buys twice.

Basically you want the pin set to the deepest position then wind down the star wheel and wind up the no boost fuel screw to its max out position. You set the star wheel so when you put the top on you have a bit of spring pressure on the cap. the star wheel should be down about 15mm from the top pin tube if you have a std spring.

Then you screw in the main fuel screw until you cannot adjust the idle down any more then wind out the fuel screw about 1/2 a turn and then adjust the idle to 750 rpm. Then go for a blast loading it up in 4th gear adjust boost to about 21 to 22 as that is about the max boost you will get with your 14psi actuator. The boost should get to 20 ish by about 2000 rpm and hold 20 ish out to 3800 a drop of 1 or 2 psi is fine because this telling you have EMP respectable. If is drops lower then this is telling you your actuator is not holding or you have over the top EMP (not enough travel). Or your pump is tied or you don't have enough static timing and and etc etc on and on its all a bit different for each motor condition or filter or tyre size or wind resistance or weight of rig on and bloody on..

Then you wind down your no boost screw to adjust when your spool point starts or if you are all crossed up OCD about smoke, so that's is up to you and your OCD,. but i keep winding the screw down until i am happy with spool start rpm, i like it to start feeling spool power at about 1500 ish rpm. This is where i use a timed distance on the road in 3rd gear, or use a Iphone pocket dyno to do acceleration times 20 to 80klms.

But doing this i always have a portable AFR meter to check i am moving in the right direction for fueling or at least a EGT gauge to know when i am approaching silly EMP:IMP ratio. But to be safe i pull out the EGT probe which is always fitted pre turbo in the manifold next to the outlet between 2 and 3 ports close to number 3 outlet. I plug in a fitting with about 700mm of 1/4 copper tube then fit a boost gauge to the tube. I thinks is respectable to see 28 to 30 psi in the exhaust manifold at 3800rpm , less is good.

Doing all that with a good IP, you should be at about 125 to 135 rwkw. But the EFR is not about its ability to produce power/torque bragging rights. The EFR is about the absolute unbeatable spool response and drivability. Its not the best turbo at seeing your boost gauge needle doing a Gfu@k instant boost rise off idle rpm, but doing nothing for going forward, boost is a measure of nothing on a engine or turbo. And it probably isn't the best turbo for off idle response but you will not fine a better turbo for 60 to 80klm times or 80 to 120 klm times. Or its instance accelerations above 1800 rpms. That is why you have chosen a EFR ball bearing turbo.

Then if you want to improve early to midrange spool so you have the very best turbo you go and spend another $250 and get a SX-E style compressor cover which has a Map extension slot and 3.5 inch inlet flange, (this cover eliminates that annoying intake noise so you now can here the ball bearing spool sound) which will give you even better drivability. I assume this cover works on a 11mm IP as i haven't tested one as yet, i have only tested the cover on a 12mm IP and 200rwkw TD.
Thanks P that's a great explanation. I think I understand most of it. I did my last post before seeing yours, so some crossover.
I'm not convinced the actuator I have been sent is 14psi as before I dialed in the manual controller it was only reaching about 8. I'll do some fiddling over the weekend and see what happens.😱.
 
Discussion starter · #1,944 ·
Thanks P that's a great explanation. I think I understand most of it. I did my last post before seeing yours, so some crossover.
I'm not convinced the actuator I have been sent is 14psi as before I dialed in the manual controller it was only reaching about 8. I'll do some fiddling over the weekend and see what happens.😱.

I doubt it would be less than 14psi. What is likely is that you are simply seeing that the rest of the equation, being the fuel, is not there yet.

As for noise, that will depend on your overall set-up I think. On engines capable of 200kw, when you give it 50% throttle it makes a good lot of intake noise. Big airboxes and intakes etc will contribute to this I think.

As for the fluttering that is mentioned, that is only when you are giving it a lot of welly, and you need a lot of throttle and boost to get it to happen. In normal driving mine never does it, as I just do not need to give it enough throttle to make it happen. Oldmav will have a view in this, but it is possible with your 11mm pump it may not happen, as it is only up near 30psi that it does it. You may not have enough fuel for that anyway. But the occasional bit of noise is no concern for me anyway. I have not tried the alternate cover that is mentioned above.
 
You will need a manual boost controller so you can approach 22 psi. You dont want to be winding on preload on a 14psi actuator. you will run out of travel to keep EMP at a respectable level. You should have the 21 psi actuator and 1 to 1.5 turns on the preload. But a 14 might get you there with enough fuel. I use and always recommend a electronic controller and a turbosmart dual port actuator. Do it once do it right. Poor man always buys twice.

Basically you want the pin set to the deepest position then wind down the star wheel and wind up the no boost fuel screw to its max out position. You set the star wheel so when you put the top on you have a bit of spring pressure on the cap. the star wheel should be down about 15mm from the top pin tube if you have a std spring.

Then you screw in the main fuel screw until you cannot adjust the idle down any more then wind out the fuel screw about 1/2 a turn and then adjust the idle to 750 rpm. Then go for a blast loading it up in 4th gear adjust boost to about 21 to 22 as that is about the max boost you will get with your 14psi actuator. The boost should get to 20 ish by about 2000 rpm and hold 20 ish out to 3800 a drop of 1 or 2 psi is fine because this telling you have EMP respectable. If is drops lower then this is telling you your actuator is not holding or you have over the top EMP (not enough travel). Or your pump is tied or you don't have enough static timing and and etc etc on and on its all a bit different for each motor condition or filter or tyre size or wind resistance or weight of rig on and bloody on..

Then you wind down your no boost screw to adjust when your spool point starts or if you are all crossed up OCD about smoke, so that's is up to you and your OCD,. but i keep winding the screw down until i am happy with spool start rpm, i like it to start feeling spool power at about 1500 ish rpm. This is where i use a timed distance on the road in 3rd gear, or use a Iphone pocket dyno to do acceleration times 20 to 80klms.

But doing this i always have a portable AFR meter to check i am moving in the right direction for fueling or at least a EGT gauge to know when i am approaching silly EMP:IMP ratio. But to be safe i pull out the EGT probe which is always fitted pre turbo in the manifold next to the outlet between 2 and 3 ports close to number 3 outlet. I plug in a fitting with about 700mm of 1/4 copper tube then fit a boost gauge to the tube. I thinks is respectable to see 28 to 30 psi in the exhaust manifold at 3800rpm , less is good.

Doing all that with a good IP, you should be at about 125 to 135 rwkw. But the EFR is not about its ability to produce power/torque bragging rights. The EFR is about the absolute unbeatable spool response and drivability. Its not the best turbo at seeing your boost gauge needle doing a Gfu@k instant boost rise off idle rpm, but doing nothing for going forward, boost is a measure of nothing on a engine or turbo. And it probably isn't the best turbo for off idle response but you will not fine a better turbo for 60 to 80klm times or 80 to 120 klm times. Or its instance accelerations above 1800 rpms. That is why you have chosen a EFR ball bearing turbo.

Then if you want to improve early to midrange spool so you have the very best turbo you go and spend another $250 and get a SX-E style compressor cover which has a Map extension slot and 3.5 inch inlet flange, (this cover eliminates that annoying intake noise so you now can here the ball bearing spool sound) which will give you even better drivability. I assume this cover works on a 11mm IP as i haven't tested one as yet, i have only tested the cover on a 12mm IP and 200rwkw TD.
Hi Pete have u got a part no for the sxe cover always disliked me 4 intake all the way to the turbo with stock ac lines and **** everywhere making it the hardest fitting to put on or off
 
Discussion starter · #1,951 ·
I get flutter quite easily in 3rd or 4th unloaded with 3/4 throttle and definitely towing no way around it,
Hopefully the sxe comp cover will change things for the better 👍🏼
That is interesting.

I think I would be correct in saying under no circumstance would I ever get compressor surge at 3/4 throttle. So it would take close to 100% throttle, and only when it gets to about 30psi.

So pretty much never. I wonder what you have on your engine configuration or tuning that causes yours to do it so often.
 
I'll have a look at my settings
Can I ask what you have your eboost set at,
I'm just sorting out a exhaust pressure guage as not point having 3 ( eboost,coolingmist and redarc )although one's on comp housing and other on plenum
 
So an update. I rigged up a pressure gauge to my bike track pump and tested the crack pressure of the waste gate actuator and it was around 10-11psi so it's a med can, and accords with the pressures given in the BW manual. That would explain why I was not getting much boost before adding some manual boost control. I understand the waste gate is quite big, so even a small amount of opening looses a lot of turbine drive.
Did a decent test run and was able to get 22psi briefly accelerating at full throttle up hills, but had to ease off too soon, because of building speed and traffic, to be able to get a reliable picture of psi v egts v rev v throttle position. Also a lot to take note of whilst still driving safely 😳. However, the car goes well, doing over 100 up hill still had plenty of throttle left and would accelerate reasonably quickly to ....... ( the speed limit 😉).
Afterwards had a fiddle with the fuel pump, and adjusted as per @OldMav's advice. The fuel screw is an awkward sucker to get to.
I have 14mm from star wheel to top of pin tube. That's as far as it will go. There's also a max of 8mm pin travel possible. I had a 2mm shim under the diaphragm. Was not sure whether to remove it or not so compromised by replacing it with a 1mm washer. Which obviously still limits the pin travel to 7mm. I measured the max pin position with and without the 2mm shim. (see photo). So there is still a little bit of fuel left if I need it. Haven't given it a proper run since, but just round the block it smokes a bit when pulling away hard but otherwise hardly at all as far as I can tell from the limited view I have. I think I need a good run with the trailer on so it gets a proper load test on a long hill to see what is going on . My guess is that I will get quite high egts as the intercooler is only small, and I still have the original air box; and I may loose boost after the initial blast due to the limits of the manual boost control dropping too much exhaust. I think I'll get a D force controller next.
Would be interested in others' thoughts. Laser pointer Gas Office supplies Metal Auto part
 
Discussion starter · #1,954 ·
I'll have a look at my settings
Can I ask what you have your eboost set at,
I'm just sorting out a exhaust pressure guage as not point having 3 ( eboost,coolingmist and redarc )although one's on comp housing and other on plenum
OK, so my memory for this stuff is zero, so I had a look at what was written down on my paperwork.

SP1 - 75
GP1 - 27
Max boost - 35
 
Discussion starter · #1,955 ·
So an update. I rigged up a pressure gauge to my bike track pump and tested the crack pressure of the waste gate actuator and it was around 10-11psi so it's a med can, and accords with the pressures given in the BW manual. That would explain why I was not getting much boost before adding some manual boost control. I understand the waste gate is quite big, so even a small amount of opening looses a lot of turbine drive.
Did a decent test run and was able to get 22psi briefly accelerating at full throttle up hills, but had to ease off too soon, because of building speed and traffic, to be able to get a reliable picture of psi v egts v rev v throttle position. Also a lot to take note of whilst still driving safely 😳. However, the car goes well, doing over 100 up hill still had plenty of throttle left and would accelerate reasonably quickly to ....... ( the speed limit 😉).
Afterwards had a fiddle with the fuel pump, and adjusted as per @OldMav's advice. The fuel screw is an awkward sucker to get to.
I have 14mm from star wheel to top of pin tube. That's as far as it will go. There's also a max of 8mm pin travel possible. I had a 2mm shim under the diaphragm. Was not sure whether to remove it or not so compromised by replacing it with a 1mm washer. Which obviously still limits the pin travel to 7mm. I measured the max pin position with and without the 2mm shim. (see photo). So there is still a little bit of fuel left if I need it. Haven't given it a proper run since, but just round the block it smokes a bit when pulling away hard but otherwise hardly at all as far as I can tell from the limited view I have. I think I need a good run with the trailer on so it gets a proper load test on a long hill to see what is going on . My guess is that I will get quite high egts as the intercooler is only small, and I still have the original air box; and I may loose boost after the initial blast due to the limits of the manual boost control dropping too much exhaust. I think I'll get a D force controller next.
Would be interested in others' thoughts. View attachment 544769
A good intake benefits all engines. And the electronic boost control in conjunction with the twin port actuator is the best option, if you are looking to get it as good as you can.
 
[IMG alt="OldMav"]https://www.patrol4x4.com/d1/avatars/m/2/2341.jpg?1561028961[/IMG]
OldMav
·SUI GENERIS UTE
GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
Joined Apr 2, 2006
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6,369 Posts
Kevin
The SX-E cover is a special cover which has a slot cut into the area just in front of the compressor section of the comp wheel. what this does is extends the comp surge point further. So for a 6758 on a TD it will be near impossible to surge the turbo at 200rwkw's fuelling.

The real purpose of the SX-e cover is not just to move the surge point, the real name of this slot is called Map extension slot. So the real purpose in simplest terms is it allows the turbo to pump a bit more air with a bit more density in the spool area of the rpm range.

For the TD the EFR6758 with SX-e cover will spool more air to 2000 rpm so will generate a bit more rising torque but not really more peak torque. So its not unusual to get a 150 rpm earlier peak torque if it is tuned correctly.

The other bonus and why most 6758 users fit the SX-e cover is because it is a hell of a lot quitter in the cab so basically near zero induction noise. But now you will hear a turbo whine due to no induction noise.

Cheers Peter
 
A good intake benefits all engines. And the electronic boost control in conjunction with the twin port actuator is the best option, if you are looking to get it as good as you can.
I've had both set ups BW high boost can with basic electronic controller, and now the Turbosmart dual port can with the D-Force controller, and the boost control response is phenominal, you can back off the throttle for a split second to bleed off some boost and not lose boost when you come back on throttle etc, helps when you've got it crossed up on a dirt road and need to use the power to get you back on track :D or whatever demanding situation. I recently was sucked into some soft sand in 2wd on a dry river crossing by surprise with hard tyres and the turbo response was awesome to keep me on top of the sand, with the stock HT-18 set up I'd have been sucked in.
 
So an update. I rigged up a pressure gauge to my bike track pump and tested the crack pressure of the waste gate actuator and it was around 10-11psi so it's a med can, and accords with the pressures given in the BW manual. That would explain why I was not getting much boost before adding some manual boost control. I understand the waste gate is quite big, so even a small amount of opening looses a lot of turbine drive.
Did a decent test run and was able to get 22psi briefly accelerating at full throttle up hills, but had to ease off too soon, because of building speed and traffic, to be able to get a reliable picture of psi v egts v rev v throttle position. Also a lot to take note of whilst still driving safely 😳. However, the car goes well, doing over 100 up hill still had plenty of throttle left and would accelerate reasonably quickly to ....... ( the speed limit 😉).
Afterwards had a fiddle with the fuel pump, and adjusted as per @OldMav's advice. The fuel screw is an awkward sucker to get to.
I have 14mm from star wheel to top of pin tube. That's as far as it will go. There's also a max of 8mm pin travel possible. I had a 2mm shim under the diaphragm. Was not sure whether to remove it or not so compromised by replacing it with a 1mm washer. Which obviously still limits the pin travel to 7mm. I measured the max pin position with and without the 2mm shim. (see photo). So there is still a little bit of fuel left if I need it. Haven't given it a proper run since, but just round the block it smokes a bit when pulling away hard but otherwise hardly at all as far as I can tell from the limited view I have. I think I need a good run with the trailer on so it gets a proper load test on a long hill to see what is going on . My guess is that I will get quite high egts as the intercooler is only small, and I still have the original air box; and I may loose boost after the initial blast due to the limits of the manual boost control dropping too much exhaust. I think I'll get a D force controller next.
Would be interested in others' thoughts. View attachment 544769
What pump do you have ? And what do you call high EGT's?
 
I have the std 11mm pump. 550+ EGT after the turbo I would call high. I don't know the differential across the turbo but I suspect it might be a bit higher than on the standard turbo as it does a lot more work. Now have a D force controller with the BW can. I reckon it rarely opens the gate at all.
 
I have the std 11mm pump. 550+ EGT after the turbo I would call high. I don't know the differential across the turbo but I suspect it might be a bit higher than on the standard turbo as it does a lot more work. Now have a D force controller with the BW can. I reckon it rarely opens the gate at all.
Yeah same egts even with 12mm here. But I can go over 650++ if push it too hard up hills in 5th, but I don't let it go that far, I back off at 540 550. I have reached the warning only once went to 760 for a second only, temps come back really fast at that heat, unless you melt a piston I guess. Not a nice thought. I havent done any serious towing yet with this set up so that will be the test. Ready methanol injection I think.

Well set up big trucks run very low EGT's compared to this, what we think is high in C they think is really high in F. I've followed the Gentry and Sons Trucking chanel on YT for a while, the guy makes videos of him taking various rigs on hills and watching all the data live, very interesting. They have a few killer hills jike jerico hill, far more demanding than here..

You should hear it blow off, noticably ?
 
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