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nissan patrol
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I buy one, and it's pretty awesome!

Bought the one off craigslist Vancouver, has a few issues but the basic truck is in great shape. I'll post some pictures if I can figure out how.

I haven't had much time to do research on the few issues but tonight's the night.

A/C and the rear heater appears to have no electrical power. I have the Y60 service manual but it doesn't talk about 24 volts, is it similar? I just found the fuse panel drawing and I'll try that, before I was just randomly puling to see if a fuse was dead. I see that they are related, buddy I bought it from said they worked before.

Wheels need to be balance, anyone use the balancing beads? and recommendations?

Nice to meet you all, I've messaged some and have had a good experience here, not common on internet forums.

Jason
 

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Welcome to the club! You will love it. I don't know much about power to the rear heater, but it will be 24 volts; everything is except the stereo.

Any questions just ask, someone will know the answer.
 

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naturally asthmatic
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Sounds like a fuse if neither blower motor is working. The fuse panel layout changed a bit over the years/models. The Japanese is there on the back of the panel and I am sure you could find someone in Vancouver who would translate it for you.

I have no experience with balancing beads. I usually get my summer AT and MT tires balanced every year. It does not take much to put them out. I have found the stick on weights that stick to the back side of an alloy stay on longer then the ones that are hammered onto the outside of the alloy rim. They tend to get knocked off in the bush and mud.

That one is a nice looking rig. Welcome to the safari club.
 

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nissan patrol
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So far so good

I drove it out to Kelowna the other day and since being here I had to get an alignment.

The front right was off the most, the other a bit, with the wear induced by the misalignment at 80 kph the front shook like the mad!

Got a balance, rotation and alignment here in Kelowna and it's much better now. The guys at Kal-tire liked it, buddy said he took it for an extra long test drive cause it's so cool.

Got the Satellite radio all wired up to a 12v convert and to the stereo.

Still can't figure out the A/C thing yet.

I think it's a sensor or something electrical, buddy said it work before. I've never dealt with freon before, is it green like coolant? The compressor is all wet with green fluid, but only the compressor. I've put 500 KMs on it and non of the the coolant is gone.

Jason
 

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naturally asthmatic
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Freon is a gas when not under pressure/compressed. You likely have a coolant leak. Are you loosing coolant? Check your lower rad hose. It is the closest to the compressor.

For the AC, take it to a refrigeration shop to see why it is not functioning. If it is electrical, then it would mean your clutch on the compressor is not engaging. Have someone hit the Ac switch while you listen by the engine with the hood open. It should cycle on. No one will legally have freon to recharge your system, if you have a leak. What is left of the freon in the system will have to be drained off and captured and then the whole system dried and recharged with one of the replacement refrigerant gases. This also usually included the installation of a new drier to the system.
 

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the patrols have a low pressure switch so if the ac is out or down on gas the wont work at all, it stops the compressor from spinning with no gas in it. there is a 4 pin plug on the top of the ac dryer if you bridge them then hit the ac switch with the fan on you should hear the ac clutch kick in, then you know there is a leak and it needs re gassing
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've been checking under the front end every morning and after work. Nothing more then a drip formed on the bottom of the compressor.

I'll get the skid plate off this week and give the area a good clean.

I've checked the clutch engagement and nothing there. It's like the entire A/C electrical is down. The vacuum solenoid for increased idle isn't working either, and I've pulled the tube off after I've been shut down for awhile and I've still go good suction.

I've Pulled all the 10 amp fused and in all the various places the the A/C or blower, fan fuses could be on the box.

I'll just pull all of them tomorrow.


As a general rule would the 24v safari have the same wiring diagrams as the 12v GQ, which I have the service manual for?


I'll be putting Nissan and everyone who says that you can get any part as long as you know the PN to the test this week. I need a few things for the Left rear window.

8255305J05 L/H Rear Door lock Actuator broken - output shaft, rest of lock works fine but I doubt they sell the piece I need.

8270126J00 L/H Rear Door window Reg. the gear is seize rock solid. I'll try a vise tomorrow.


So far I really like the Safari but I won't be lying if I said I wasn't disappointed with it on hills. Stock auto with a 2" lift and 31's but it's worse then my Xtrail towing a 600 pound trailer up the Coquihalla.

I've never owned a diesel before but it feels like it's getting too much fuel and it just bogs down. Or is this standard for type?
 

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nissan
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100% sure you air con is out of gas, you can check it easy they way i said, if even a drip has formed it has leaked out, if it is low on gas the system wont work like you said
 

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Glad to hear another Safari owner. If I type something that doesn't make sense my head is spinning and I feel strange from medication.

From what I read your a/c is not actuating and you have no rear heater fan operation.

Isn't there a fuse able link near the right hand batt for a/c? Check. The a/c will not actuate unless both A/C on/off button is on and fan is is selected to a speed. Check.

Rear heater has 2 speeds a 3 way switch. You can turn fan on/off from dash or rear heater control panel. Check and double check on both speed settings.

Also might check for illumination lights when vehicle lights on and operation is selected. No lights does not prevent operation but can b an indication of power present.

I like bead balancing but does not fix existing issues.
 

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nissan patrol
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Tried jumping the pressure switch connection and still no go.

I'm off on vacation right now so haven't messed around recently with this A/C problem, just going to have to start tracing the power from where it starts through the system i guess.

Been doing some turbo research.
For Nissan Safari Patrol 4 2L TD42 GQ Turbo Manifold turbocharger Oil Line | eBay
has anyone bought this kit? I think some of these parts have been bought and installed by guys on this forum from these guys down in California.

I'm going to get a boost and pyro gauge installed sooner then later to get some pre turbo info, probably pick up a decent set from Lordco, and a catch can as well, oily intake.
 

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You get what you pay for. I was into my turbo set up 950 alone for the turbo. 250 for the manifold. 550 for gauges and etc. And 940 exhaust...
 

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And your turbo failed!

There are 4 or 5 safaris running cheap Chinese oil cooled only turbos in Canada with no dramas. One fellow even brought his turbo to a shop to be balanced and it wasn't required.
 

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Mine failed due to the wrong oil supply banjo(ball bearing id instead of journal). Not the turbo's fault more like the packaging at the manufacturers fault.

Two safari owners have ridden in mine and have stated that compared to Lauren and David's truck that mine would walk away from theres. And that Laurens truck didn't even feel turboed at all...

I also know for a fact that Lauren and David's turbo experience hasn't been faultless and that there has been issues.

There is a 160 page thread on my turbo(Kinugawa). And everybody else other then the canucks on this forum decry the chinese cheap turbo. The aussies spend thousands(not hundreds) on their turbos.

If you want to roll the dice with a chinese turbo go ahead. Good luck finding a low km td42 if it blows and kills your motor. I know for one thing part of me wishes I spent the coin on a Garrett. However I spent good money on mine and did my research.
 

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Just to throw another option out there; I bought a lightly used (~300mi) Turbonetics GTK-350 off of ebay for around the $900 mark. It was too big for the previous owners Miata so he put it up for sale with minimal abuse. I have run mine for around 10 months without any issues *knock on wood*. Not saying you have to buy a Turbonetics, but buying new-used might be a viable option for you.
Cheers
 

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Nissan Safari WRGY60
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I don't like Chinese turbos, people like them because they are cheap. I will never put a Chinese turbo into my truck because I don't trust the Chinese dodgy components. The turbo it self may look fine but it all comes down to quality, like the compressor and turbine housings can be cast in a half ass molding process and the cast metal could have air bubbles and the cast it self could not be straight. The Chinese machining of the turbo can be questionable, things like the center housing main bearing races could not be true. The compressor housing not be straight either! Also the quality of the internal parts of the turbo are usually low quality, also the turbine shaft is not always balanced properly. In the trucking industry Chinese turbos almost don't exist because the lake of reliability, the only people who do get them are cheap ass guys trying to save as much money on repairs as possible. Running that nasty veggie oil bs doesn't help with performance whats so ever. So that is why I don't like Chinese turbos but people buy them because they are cheap and they say that Chinese turbos are the best turbos in the world. If one were to say that he/she sent the turbo to get "re-machined" or "balanced" the turbo is still a piece of ****. Spend the money and get a reputable turbo like a Garrett or holset turbocharger. So that is my two cents on Chinese turbos!
 
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