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nissan
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I found this diagram by accident in the manual, explaining how to adjust the load sensing valve in the Patrol (I assume that it applies to all models). For those who have raised the suspension, it might assist in setting the valve to the correct position, using the extension arm that is available for most lift kits:
 

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Nice one Ray, thanks for posting, interesting about getting someone to sit in the back etc, i think ill take a look at mine very soon. ;)


Very intresting find wonder if it would make much difference?
Didn't notice mine was adjusted wrong, until i drove down the beach, on the hard sand doing 80kph (fraser), i found when slowing down for washouts etc, the rear of the car felt very uneasy, sort of like it wanted to turn as if pulling on the handbrake in a 2wd car.

After adjusting the valve (i guessed the setting), it now stops straight on the beach, even if i stand on the brakes quite hard.

For road driving, I think you would only realise it was wrong, when doing a emergency stop in the wet, but i could see how the rear end of the car could dangerously slide out, especially if the road was off camber.


:cool:
 

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nissan
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What appears interesting is that, if I read this correctly, the brake should be depressed while adjusting the spring length. I've adjusted mine from the diff housing side. It also appears that the spring should be parallel to the axle, lifted or not lifted. Mine does work well, but I'm going to have to check it.
 

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Where to find the extension?
I haven't adjusted mine since doing the lift 50mm from when new, might explain why brakes never felt that good.:(

Was never told about this when I bought the kit, oh well
 

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nissan y61
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I just did mine today. After the lift kit it was way out but still stopped ok. I had to make a extension bracket to bring the spring level as per diagram. I can feel any difference but should do when loaded up with camping equipment. The only thing I notice is the ABS is now more responsive on the front. I think the balance of 4.8 is maybe F70 and rear 30 as standard. Once lifted and not adjusted its more like 50/50. For 200 kg rear coils the rear valve just floats in any position and make the brake pedal react like its has vacuum issue. Once adjust it all firms up.
 

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Another point I found is that the rear axle if lifted has to be sitting true and this can be issue if lifted with out adjustment to panhard adjustment. Roof racks and stuff make this also a issue so some of measurement above should be used as guide. I set mine so I got max braking with out any lock up.if locks up you have to adjust. If set correctly the pressure in the rear valve should increase slowly and stop before any traction is lost.
 

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I found with mine (2 inch lift) that the spring length needed to be 8mm SHORTER than the suggested max length on here. It took a bit of trial and error...but the reason I eventually got to this figure was that brake dust came up on the back wheels before the front ones..plus the rear discs got hotter than the front ones with a full tank (150 litre long range tank.
HTH.

Cheers Keith
 

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Grenade Master
Nissan Patrol 05
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I'd still question this on aftermarket suspension with different spring rates. Especially when looking at mine (2" lift with constant load 300 kg) and there is no change to distance L. Loaded or not with driver and extra passenger. (probably need to get some fat bastards than)
So consensus is the longer the spring length the more front bias or is it other way around? Or shorter the spring distance the more braking force on rear? I wouldn't actually mind having 50-50 brake distribution.
More I look at this more confused I'm getting :bs:

Cheers
 

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Extended spring will be maybe 70/30 balance. Compressed spring (less tension) would be more 50/50. The lever is out for more and in for less.
 

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Grenade Master
Nissan Patrol 05
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Are you stating that if the lever is adjusted out more, say 190 mm rather than 180 mm, that would give more front brake??


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That is my assumption too (from the post). When checked my brake pads recently I have noted that rear ones are wearing out more than the front ones. I had driven about 5 K km without the spring (broke the extension bracket at Finke) fitted.

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Nissan Patrol GU4 2006 with Cummins ISDE4.5 270HP , 830 NM Engine Conversion
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i have a question about adjusting the bracket. when adjusting the spring length position, do i need to move the level all the way out against the stop bolt ( buy hand, or something to hole it there? or let the lever stop in its natural position which means, i dont need to hole it?), then doing the adjustment to 180mm spring length per the attached picture? can someone help to explain in more details about this ?
 

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update: I have played with the adjustment per the above instruction sheet. position 1: with lever attached the stopper screw. and measure 180 mm spring length, position 2: with the lever in its natural position, adjust the spring length to 180 mm. after test driver for both settings, the position 2 braking feel more positive. the car stop faster. either at slow or fast speed, i can feel the front brake works. So i keep the position 2 as my setup. I believe it is because i have a heavier Cummins engine ( than the factory ZD30) in the front, so car will need more braking power in the front. So i believe for those who did the engine conversion ( with heavier engines in the engine bay) may need to re-adjust the load sensing setting in order to get the best performance of the brake
 

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Was told about this a while ago, put your Troll up on axle stands, start and put in 4 gear, put foot on brake at idle the motor should stall or very near stall.

I did try this and did find my braking felt a lot more positive. Set up as per factory putting foot on brake did nothing to the rear of the Troll.

I was a bit sceptical when told but no harm in trying
 

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Is yours auto? Mine is an auto. Will this test work?

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk
 

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Is yours auto? Mine is an auto. Will this test work?

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk
Nah manual, don't see why it wouldn't.

The problem you may come up against is the torque multiplier of the auto due to the converter. But at idle and in top gear O.D off you should still have the rear wheels slow down and the engine revs drop.

Try it and see never had a auto so it's a bit up in the air.
 
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