Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner

61 - 78 of 78 Posts

·
Registered
nissangu
Joined
·
97 Posts
Hi all. I have just swapped my td42 gu ute for a wagon fitted with the 6.5 optimiser td and i have to say that going from a 200+ RWKW engine to the v8 was rather disappointing. The torque off idle is good and i love the sound of the v8 through the 4 inch exhaust but find that it runs out of legs fairly quickly. I think that it just needs a completely different driving style to the td. You need to ride the torque wave because they seem to have stuff all power. Just something i will have to get used to i think.
Cheers
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
31 Posts
hi bren85 , i had a turbo 6.5 optimiser put in mine in 2014 from brunswicks, no dramas at all very profesional looking job, the only part of the conversion i wasnt overly happy about was there inhouse exhaust system, looked pretty ugly and restrictive (since been swapped out with a custom straight through setup,
my wagon was originally a 4.8 manual with 4.3-1 diffs, they were way to low geared for a 6.5, they were swapped out for a set of 3.5-1 out of a 4.8 auto wagon. with the 3.5s motor sits at 1950-2000 rpm at 110kph and 2250-2300 in 4th at 100kph rolling on 285-75 16 tyres. as my mowing business is set up on a car trailer and fully laden is about 2.1 ton, it will pull it with ease. my own personal rule of never towing in 5th was the reason i went with the 3.5 diff ratios, i can do 100kph towing easily in 4th and it cruises in 5th.
yes, low range 4x4ing suffers as well as reversing is a bit fast but if i need to back up slowly,i just use lo4
as far as fuel economy i regularly see 13-14l/100km when on a long run, 15-16 when just cummuting around and usually 17-18 when towing my trailer around which as i mentioned is about 2.1 ton

all in all im pretty happy with my decision to do 6.5 swap, i was never expecting it to be a tyre fryer , its an old school low tech motor which is why people like it ,

my 2c worth
 

·
Registered
nissangu
Joined
·
97 Posts
Boundry Rider as best as i can tell it is a mechanical pump. I can only see a wire going to the fuel solenoid on top of the pump.
 

·
Master Coalroller
nissan
Joined
·
3,230 Posts
Yep mechanical IP. Other than the obvious changes from from riding in a respospnsive inline 6cl to a torquey short stroke V8, the IP timing and advance are critical to driving response. Check the post I put up here in this section about fuel pump supply pressure.
Also what are your diff ratios? This engine will run out of revs very quickly, I have 3.5's and run 35" tyres as well to maximise torque to the wheels
 

·
Registered
nissangu
Joined
·
97 Posts
I am unsure of the diff ratios but im sure i read somewhere above that you sit on 2200 rpm at 110 whereas im doing about 2500 rpm on 35s
It also has a lift pump
 

·
Master Coalroller
nissan
Joined
·
3,230 Posts
Lift pump should supply good pressure, doesn't hurt to test though. At 2000rpm wide open you want at least 2 psi on a normal cool day.
I'm doing 1980rpm in 5th at 100kmh, offhand can't remember my 110kmh rpm. You would do well to check out a faster diff ratio, the torque isn't being put to work up at 2500rpm it's just all noise.
My 15 L Detriot prime mover only pulls between 1350 and 1600 with a roadtrain despite being 560hp at 1800 rpm. Steepest part of the HP curve is where the work is. On the 15 L Detroit it's 1450 rpm and presto that's where it presents the best acceleration rate.
 

·
I Have Imaginary Friends
Patrol Hybrid.
Joined
·
13,229 Posts
Don't EVER stuff a radiator in one of these. I just traded my first born for one
How did this happen? Where did you get the replacement from?
 

·
Registered
nissangu
Joined
·
97 Posts
The little squiggly bits between the cores just fell right out leaving about 150mm of cores flapping around. Aparantly they are a custom core. Paid $1400 pp from brunswick and that was with 15% off.
 

·
Master Coalroller
nissan
Joined
·
3,230 Posts
The little squiggly bits between the cores just fell right out leaving about 150mm of cores flapping around. Aparantly they are a custom core. Paid $1400 pp from brunswick and that was with 15% off.
Where was that sourced, and what was the age?
 

·
Registered
nissangu
Joined
·
97 Posts
The conversion was done in 2013, 45000 kays. Im guessing that it had a dunking in salt water maybe. thats about all i can think of that would make the fins become so brittle and fall out
 

·
Master Coalroller
nissan
Joined
·
3,230 Posts
Ok. Mine was a Silverado radiator donated with the front cut I acquired as part of the engine deal. It was the original 1990’s plastic tank radiator and I’ve had it in the big grey since install 2009. Tank blew 2 months ago but core was fine except some impact damage whilst shipping from the US with the engine. I replaced it with a custom alluminium Silverado one for about $550 including shipping from the US.
Your missing fins looks like cheap material/ assembly or defective manufacturing. I’ve never seen one gone that quickly anywhere lol
 

·
SUI GENERIS UTE
GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
Joined
·
5,929 Posts
I haven't seen that sort of thing for a very long time. When alloy cores started to be introduced that sort of thing was somewhat common. When the Chinese/Taiwanese started supply this effect started again. I believe its a manufacturing process fault. Probably a bad batch in the mix of supply Brunswick got.

Maybe a call to them to see if they had a replacement policy on these rads. But sadly the rad is 5 years old they probably consider that as life cycle with no replacement.

Also just to be fair i have seen that sort of damage but not as bad on alloy radiators when there is electrolysis action happening, But that amount of damage is a lot of serious stray electricity happening in radiator isolation. Which is probably what is happening here.
 

·
Registered
nissangu
Joined
·
97 Posts
Thanks Oldmav, i had not given electrolysis any thought. I will drop the meter in it when i get it back together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Not sure if this is the thread to put this on but for anyone looking for more info or manuals etc on any of the 6.5L GM diesel engines see link below.....
I was looking for some sort of Haynes manual equivalent for my 6.5 optimizer. Theres more dead-ends and half-a**d PDF documents out there than i can count but i found these guys.

Main Website:
https://www.thedieselpage.com

Their Books:
TheDieselPage.com Book Reprints 2019

They have solid info in their books on all the GM 6.5s an the GM 6.2s. They arent cheap or fancy but theyre by far the best ive found for the 6.5 to date. Due to pub date some of the info on stuff like available performance mods and achievable power gains are obviously a bit outdated and/or understated due to newer tech but other than a few obvious bits like that the info in the books is all spot on.
They also have a link to a page dedicated to the 6.6 duramax. Not sure what that page is like but if it's the same guys then it should be decent.

Just thought I'd put it out there in case i can save someone else the trouble of trying to find a manual worth a damn on the 6.5s
 
61 - 78 of 78 Posts
Top