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Discussion Starter #1
hello all I no this have been looked at before but does the single drag link mod like the gq,s really inprove the bump steer in the mk,s . I got a shorty on 2 inch lift and 33,s and 70km and under is fine and driveable over that and on old roads the bump steer gets a bit crazy . will removing the swaybar help or 2 dampers any info would be great thanks
 

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Removing sway bars won't help and 2 steering dampers will just dampen the effect.

Im not a leafy sorta bloke and im unfamiliar with the single drag link mod ( im guessing that the standard leafy steering has an idler arm? ), but you'll always have some bumpsteer in a leafy truck with a steering box, some setups might reduce it a bit or even eliminate it through a certain part of the suspensions cycle and if you can get it in the ''working range'' you might even end up with a nice ride and handling.
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
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As coils said a single piece drag link will make it worse, to reduce bump steer you want the draglink as close to horizontal as possible.
At standard height, the Nissan setup does a very good job of reducing bump steer, mine's at standard height and its very rare that I encounter any noticeable bump steer.

I seem to remember someone (maybe Jelmer) doing a high steer conversion on his MK to bring the draglink back to a reasonable angle, he has a lot more than 2" lift though...

Steel: yes they do have an idler arm.
 
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As coils said a single piece drag link will make it worse, to reduce bump steer you want the draglink as close to horizontal as possible.
At standard height, the Nissan setup does a very good job of reducing bump steer, mine's at standard height and its very rare that I encounter any noticeable bump steer.

I seem to remember someone (maybe Jelmer) doing a high steer conversion on his MK to bring the draglink back to a reasonable angle, he has a lot more than 2" lift though...

Steel: yes they do have an idler arm.


Thats right, a level draglink at ride height will give least bumpsteer.
 

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Mr G60
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I believe Nissan actually put the idler arm in the steering to help eliminate any bump steer as well as simply make it drive better. I also believe it is not a very good design. Bushing wear out fairly easy, it gets sloppy, ect ect ect. When it is new or in top condition it does work fine but I am a fan of the tried and true single drag link set up.

I have done both the normal drag link conversion and the high steer. With a level drag link you should have no bump steer at all. If you do, it is likely because of worn out parts.

I did a "Y-link" conversion on my Land Cruiser. It is a GM set up and has 1-ton tres. Perhaps look into that although with your rules in Aus. not sure how much you can do to it.

Cheers
 

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The Member Formerly Known as Lusty Dusty
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Sorry guys, I've heard the term 'bump steer' many times but not sure what it means.
Unless it's another name for the wobbles?

Cheers....Lionel.
 

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hello all I no this have been looked at before but does the single drag link mod like the gq,s really inprove the bump steer in the mk,s . I got a shorty on 2 inch lift and 33,s and 70km and under is fine and driveable over that and on old roads the bump steer gets a bit crazy . will removing the swaybar help or 2 dampers any info would be great thanks
2"" lift and 33s shouldn't give you "bump steer", you probably have the dreaded "death wobble
Plenty of info on that if you do a search
Had the same prob in my LWB. at around 90ks and hitting a bump on the road would get a violent shake in the steering, in my case it ended up being the shims
 

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The Prodigal Child Has Returned
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bump steer being exactly that . Hit a bump and the wheels dart left or right, Your steering wheel moves a lot or can be jerked from your hand if you hit a big enough bump . You find your self chasing the car up the road, smooth rd the car will drive perfect

Or there's the death shakes, regardless of road surface , In which the steering violently moves left to right you are unable to hold on to the steering wheel and forces you to stop.
 

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I believe Nissan actually put the idler arm in the steering to help eliminate any bump steer as well as simply make it drive better. I also believe it is not a very good design. Bushing wear out fairly easy, it gets sloppy, ect ect ect. When it is new or in top condition it does work fine but I am a fan of the tried and true single drag link set up.

I have done both the normal drag link conversion and the high steer. With a level drag link you should have no bump steer at all. If you do, it is likely because of worn out parts.

I did a "Y-link" conversion on my Land Cruiser. It is a GM set up and has 1-ton tres. Perhaps look into that although with your rules in Aus. not sure how much you can do to it.

Cheers
The Y link can still have bumpsteer though hey? The main link from steering box still swings in an arc.

Using a bell crank on the axle is one way to eliminate bumpsteer on a leafy.
 

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When i did a SOA on my MK it had massive bump steer! Also, the tierod turned when steering because the draglink came in from above instead of from the side as with stock hight.
I went with a high steer setup and never looked back. I could do 120km/h, not tough the steering wheel and it went perfectly straight!
 
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Mr G60
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Ya Y-link is not going to help with bump steer. Cruiser is coil sprung so it works well since it is on the same plane as the panhard.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #15
hello all again thanks for all the replys. it an,t the wobbles everthing is new and I no what u mean by wobbles seen it in another one a mate had . so a high steer set up sounds link the fix will have to look in that more now. does anyone no what length spaces I should be using on the sway bar link ends with a 2inch lift ?
thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ok will try it . has anyone tried 2 dampers or is there a better one I can get have a tough dog one on now . someone said 2 damper will only dampen the bump steer more. I,m thing that's got to be better and where would I put the second one
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I had a wheel alligment done and all was in spec but could it need more camber
but since them I was told by a few people that I should have a min of 4 degree of toe in and the read out say they only set it to 1 degree
 
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