Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All, have been working on and daily driving my GUiv ST-S manual 3.0 ZD30DI Patrol for a couple of years now. Have learnt heaps from here and have been really inspired by this site and what people have done. Hopefully other people may read this and push on with their own Patrol endeavours. I reckon it’s totally worth it because equivalent motoring costs heaps and (to me) isn’t anywhere near as fun.

This is pretty much my first tourer and first experience at doing this kind of stuff.

I’m happy with it and am still inspired to keep it going. Here is my list so far:

1. Replace stereo with touch screen BT and wifi capable (but cheap) unit with reverse camera
2. Install 4 x Alpine 6” speakers in standard location
3. Install DAWES and needle valve
4. Install catch can
5. Install EGT probe
6. Install pillar pod, EGT and boost gauge - it cruises after settling on about 15 psi and has zero limp mode issues. Took a while, but followed this forum to sort it.
7. Install new dash (old one bubbly)
8. Paint interior panels (inserts in dash centre console and door inserts) gloss black.
9. Install custom dash cluster backing and globes - fix speedo
10. Install seat bracket and seat kit (front)
11. Rear drawers
12. Rear tail lights (replace the fake units that come standard with ones that work)
13. New barn door window and tint all windows
14. Winch cradle under std bar
15. New winch
16. New rotors and pads and lines (is lifted and probably should’ve had lines anyway)
17. New headlights and LED globes
18. New Spotties to replace the system ST-S ones and new lenses for the lights in the front bar.
19. Brand new gearbox, new clutch
20. Dual batteries
21. Diesel chip
22. Got the central locking remote sorted
23. Other bits and bobs to tidy it up
24. Regular trips to the local mechanic (they’re awesome and have Patrol people on staff)
25. Hard instal of an old Tom Tom I had (mounted onto the flappy door on the dash with kind of hidden wiring)
26. Aftermarket intercooler and fan install

What was already done when I purchased it - Pretty much stock except for
1. New 33s
2. Recent lift (pretty fresh parts)
3. Nissan roof racks and roof cage
4. 3” exhaust
5. Slipping clutch
6. Hopeless limp mode interventions - could hardly drive it.

What is next:
1. Fix up the 80kmh - 90kmh steering shimmy for good (gets alignment regularly which fixes it, but it always comes back). This might involve some new, better components (needs more research and advice)
2. Regular maintenance
3. Rear LED working light
4. Better reverse camera (maybe)
5. Figure out my sub tank - I haven’t needed it and haven’t tested it, but now need to do long drives and it should really be sorted.
6. Aftermarket diesel filter (I’m worried about contaminated fuel from sub tank, since it’s been not used for at least 2 years).
6. Tidy the dual battery setup properly - Currently its just 2 batteries in series.

I’m planning to get and post pics over the weekend. It’s white and looks kind of stock outside. I purchased this troll at a decent price and spent the money on it in phases. Would definitely do it again. My fav mod was the DAWES and the related bits, as mine was just hopeless without those. Happy with all of the other stuff too and if the ZD30 can’t be kept in good working order indefinitely, then we can cross that bridge at the time and I’ll still be satisfied with the whole experience. Photos on the way.
 

·
Registered
'14 Y61 ZD30 CRD M/T ST
Joined
·
3,560 Posts
Hi All, have been working on and daily driving my GUiv ST-S manual 3.0 ZD30DI Patrol for a couple of years now. Have learnt heaps from here and have been really inspired by this site and what people have done. Hopefully other people may read this and push on with their own Patrol endeavours. I reckon it’s totally worth it because equivalent motoring costs heaps and (to me) isn’t anywhere near as fun.

This is pretty much my first tourer and first experience at doing this kind of stuff.

I’m happy with it and am still inspired to keep it going. Here is my list so far:

1. Replace stereo with touch screen BT and wifi capable (but cheap) unit with reverse camera
2. Install 4 x Alpine 6” speakers in standard location
3. Install DAWES and needle valve
4. Install catch can
5. Install EGT probe
6. Install pillar pod, EGT and boost gauge - it cruises after settling on about 15 psi and has zero limp mode issues. Took a while, but followed this forum to sort it.
7. Install new dash (old one bubbly)
8. Paint interior panels (inserts in dash centre console and door inserts) gloss black.
9. Install custom dash cluster backing and globes - fix speedo
10. Install seat bracket and seat kit (front)
11. Rear drawers
12. Rear tail lights (replace the fake units that come standard with ones that work)
13. New barn door window and tint all windows
14. Winch cradle under std bar
15. New winch
16. New rotors and pads and lines (is lifted and probably should’ve had lines anyway)
17. New headlights and LED globes
18. New Spotties to replace the system ST-S ones and new lenses for the lights in the front bar.
19. Brand new gearbox, new clutch
20. Dual batteries
21. Diesel chip
22. Got the central locking remote sorted
23. Other bits and bobs to tidy it up
24. Regular trips to the local mechanic (they’re awesome and have Patrol people on staff)
25. Hard instal of an old Tom Tom I had (mounted onto the flappy door on the dash with kind of hidden wiring)
26. Aftermarket intercooler and fan install

What was already done when I purchased it - Pretty much stock except for
1. New 33s
2. Recent lift (pretty fresh parts)
3. Nissan roof racks and roof cage
4. 3” exhaust
5. Slipping clutch
6. Hopeless limp mode interventions - could hardly drive it.

What is next:
1. Fix up the 80kmh - 90kmh steering shimmy for good (gets alignment regularly which fixes it, but it always comes back). This might involve some new, better components (needs more research and advice)
2. Regular maintenance
3. Rear LED working light
4. Better reverse camera (maybe)
5. Figure out my sub tank - I haven’t needed it and haven’t tested it, but now need to do long drives and it should really be sorted.
6. Aftermarket diesel filter (I’m worried about contaminated fuel from sub tank, since it’s been not used for at least 2 years).
6. Tidy the dual battery setup properly - Currently its just 2 batteries in series.

I’m planning to get and post pics over the weekend. It’s white and looks kind of stock outside. I purchased this troll at a decent price and spent the money on it in phases. Would definitely do it again. My fav mod was the DAWES and the related bits, as mine was just hopeless without those. Happy with all of the other stuff too and if the ZD30 can’t be kept in good working order indefinitely, then we can cross that bridge at the time and I’ll still be satisfied with the whole experience. Photos on the way.
Nice work however, without pics none of it happened...

Also, dual batteries in series will make 24V. Might create some electrical issues for you and let the smoke out of some parts. ;)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi All, a quick update, but still waiting for the right conditions to happen so some good pics get posted. @Foo, thanks for the correction re wiring, I should've said in parralel, not in serial. My bad. Photos will come ASAP. Needed to pivot due to some other stuff and then clutch started slipping, so its been in the shop for a while. A short build and maintenance update:

27. sub tank figured out and working as it should - no work for me, it was all ok!
28. Primary filter/fuel manager installed
29. New clutch (ref #19) had started to slip, after seriously low kms. Probably my fault, riding it while reversing trailers up my tricky driveway. A safari heavy duty one is in it now.
30. New bushes on gear shifter linkage.
31. Periodic fix of 80km/h shimmy
32. New original gear knob to replace the after market one

So now my wishlist is:
1. Lift pump (a new wish)
2. Sort out the dual battery setup properly (I get away with it as is, by running the fridge on a lithium ion phosphate battery that is charged through the standard outlet in the back, then plugs into the fridge, if Im using it)
3. Rear brake proportional valve (as advised by mechanic, part on order)
4. Maintenance
5. Better rims and tyres once the current tyres are worn.

@geeyoutoo, thanks again for all your content that you share. Its incredible that you've taken so much time to show people how things work, share your R&D skills and outcomes and motivate folks to get things done. After my new primary fuel filter install, there was an air leak in my GU, somewhere. The car wouldnt start and was basically stuck in my driveway. It was pretty worrying. After reading through a lot of your content, I had a go at bleeding the fuel system, following your instructions. Found the banjo bolt on the IP must have worked itself loose, as it was already "cracked", when I needed to crack it loose. Tightened it up, pumped the primer and hey presto, everything working as it should. If you didnt post your content, that whole scenario would've been so much more difficult for all concerned. You're a huge help - Thank you sir!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Folks,

My luck with my GUiv wagon so far, might be encountering some resistance. Unfortunately, the starting troubles, which began after the new pre filter was installed, remain.

Spent a few hours today bleeding fuel system, following the instructions from this group in full. It took a while to start, after that procedure, which didn't seem right. Its also taking several pumps on the primer to establish pessure, rather than only needing one or two pumps.

I then began testing for air leaks with clear house and a hand pump, connected to original filter's outlet barb fitting on one side, leading to a generic bottle on the other. Its getting bubbles through that hose. A lot less bubbles came through, after pumping about 1.5 litres. Will test for bubbles upstream of filters tomorrow.

Finally, earlier today, while gettong the glow plugs out to bleed tge fuel systen, I noticed an "odd one out", when eyeballing the injectors.

Front injector - metal flange is a bit wobbly and there is no clearly visible black sealing material (compared to the other injectors, in tge second pic).
533642



Other injectors:
533643


Not sure if this inconsistency in the appearance of these injectors is an issue. Im assuming that if this injector inconsistency is an issue, its a separate issue to the other, because the fuel sysyem is getting bubbles way upstream of the injectors.

Anyway, once these issues are sorted, i'll be back on par, Ill have time to wash it and take some pics for tge build thread!
 

·
Administrator
Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
Joined
·
53,031 Posts
As long as the injector nut is tight and there is no wobble on the line I wouldn't worry to much about it. Get that air ingestion issue under control.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Today’s work may have solved the air ingress problem - will test in the morning. It is certainly starting like it used to (pre-problem, when it was always a really easy car to start)

Today’s method of trying to figure out what’s going on was: Disconnect main line from first filter. Connect hand pump with clear hose into that main line. Pump fuel to a clear bottle. Result, no bubbles. Put the main line back into the first filter. That test made me think that there isn’t a leak point between the tank and first filter.

Then, connected the same tube and pump setup to the outlet of the first filter. I got bubbles straight away. This made me think the filter wasn’t primed, or it had an assembly issue, or something. Disconnected, inspected it, pulled it apart, then re-assembled the first filter. No obvious issues (it’s new). Plugged it back in. Connected hand pump and clear tube to outlet. Pumped about 1.5 litres through it until there were no bubbles. At that point, I was satisfied it was assembled correctly and it was primed.

Repeated above outlet pumping test on 2nd filter (the Nissan one). A few bubbles, then smooth. Put it back together.

Hand primed it. Noticed only one, or maybe two pumps were needed (a lot different to what has been happening in recent days). Car started almost on first rev. Hand primer button has remained hard so far.

Have moved on to some other chores today. Fingers crossed for tomorrow. Also have ordered a few metres of fuel line and some quality hose clamps, because there are the original sections of fuel line between the 2nd filter and the IP which look pretty old and hard - will replace.

Can’t wait to test it again in the morning. I still want a lift pump and all the fancy barb fittings too (including the bits necessary to do the spill return). However, the little old hand pump from the shed, along with the a couple of pieces of clear tube (which it already had) has done all the work on this job so far.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Its all good now. I dont know for sure, but am suspecting that the pre-filter just needed to be primed more in the first instance, or, one of the connections I re-did during re-assembly was perhaps letting air in before. Now, back to the mission of getting photos of it! This forum is so good for learning!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi All, Hope everyone is doing well, enjoying your Patrols. A quick update:

  • Have replaced and adjusted the brake proportioning valve, better balance now
  • Replacement windscreen done
  • Barn door mounted spare wheel plus light/accessory bracket (Superior Engineering)
  • Rear LED worklight installed
  • Interior light LED upgrade (including map lights). They're awesome
  • 4 x Falken Wildpeak AT3s (i left the spare Hankook as is, since its still new)
  • Regular service
  • Replaced AC line and re gas, after my EGT line rubbed against the AC line and wore a hole in it. Lesson learnt.

Whats up next:
  • Fix cluster (speedo). It stopped working again (I have a gps unit with speed anyway, but its annoying). Have fixed it before, will have a closer look this time, suspecting PCBA issue.
  • Hinges - hinge on drivers door a bit sloppy, resulting in sag, resulting in poor door catch engagement. Its OK, but should be addressed.
  • I plan to tidy up my Nissan roof basket, fix my 270 degree awning and put it back on (I broke the hinges of the awning in a strong wind one day while opening the awning out, lesson learnt).
  • I might give it a proper cut and polish
  • I often get tempted to upgrade the turbo, but there is really no need, the current set up took a bit of work and it runs nicely for me. Leys see if I can keep the temptation at bay.

Thats all for now. Some more pics - these were taken prior to fitting the new tyres and the rear spare/accessory mounting bracket. The interior shots show the black painted trim pieces and how they match with the seats etc.

Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light Wheel Tire Vehicle


Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light Land vehicle

Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light Vehicle

Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Window Car seat cover

Cloud Sky Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi Folks, today I encountered the drivers door lock / latch mechanism issue. My scenario was:
1) Drivers door had funny locking behaviour, when using the central locking. The actuator made all the right noises, but unless it was locked with a key, it wasnt properly locked. So Id just lock the central locking, then use the key to lock the drivers door mechanically.
2) Today, did the above, then returned to my car. Central locking didnt unlock the drivers door. Used key to unlock drivers door. That also failed. In addition to the locking mechanism, the door handle felt strange, like it wasnt activating the mechanism. Couldnt open door, from inside or outside the car.
3) I took out the plastic surround, which encaptures the door lock and door handle on the inside of the door. Then, there is another inner section of plastic that is hard to remove, but it comes off. Then, there is a philips head screw to undo.
4) Once thats done, standing outside the car, with the window open and the key in the door (with one hand having it pushed to the unlock position) and then by reaching into the car and physically pushing the inner assy (where the inner door handle is) toward the front of the car, I periodically opened the outer door handle while just kind of moving the levers through their motions. It finally opened the door...thanks to the tips on this forum.
5) Took off the door card and had a good look at the rods. One had come out of the inner door handle's locating hole (probably by trying to open the door while the locking mechanism was stuffed). So I put it back in. Now, I have the door card off and the door can open and shut with the handle. It wont lock with the key or with the central locking mechanism at this stage.

Next step is to buy the new locking mechanism and install it, as its likely stuffed, per the notes in this forum (re how the dowels break and so forth).

Oh well, its cost me an hour and a bit so far.

This is why I love the Patrol and the forum. I can fix most things, with the help of the forum! Its reasonable for a plastic mechanism that is used every day for 18 years to get a bit of wear and ultimately fail. The car did let me know it was on its way.

Im also going to replace the worn door hinge or hinges (they have too much play) and put the new door catch on, so that it all works as intended and can be aligned. Now for parts shopping. I might ask the boys at the local shop to finish this job off, as Im time poor ATM. Lets see.

Thanks all.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top