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nissan gu
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Discussion Starter #1
so as most of you people on here probably know, having a shower when your covered in crap feels pretty good.

I tossed around the idea with using glind/helton heat exchangers but when camped up for a few days, I didn't want to start my GU and wait for it to warm up - wasting fuel. Then Id have to find a location under my bonnet for the exchanger itself and the pump itself.

so then I thought, what does every camp site have (well the ones I go to) - FIRE

then, a brain fart. copper has incredibly efficient heat transfer capabilities. so I decided to make my own heat exchanger that can be thrown on a fire, pump some water through it and done...

so here are some pics of the process of building such a setup.

so the first thing I needed was a pump. I decided on a 40PSI diaphragm pressure pump that flows about 26L p/m. a 50A Anderson plug powers it through a 30A Fuse.

Car Shower (03) [1024x576].jpg

Car Shower (04) [1024x576].jpg

I had to buy some threaded fittings so I could attach some hose couplings. I glued the adapters together because I don't really like things leaking.

Sure, I could have used thread tape but then it could be undone and since this is a permanent setup, I glued them together.

Car Shower (05) [1024x576].jpg


Next thing I needed was a shower head. Since I decided on using hose couplings for all the connections, I needed some more fittings/adapters.

Car Shower (06) [1024x576].jpg

Car Shower (07) [1024x576].jpg

Car Shower (08) [1024x576].jpg


I decided on some stainless steel braided hose because I like the feel of it, it doesn't rust, corrode nor does it kink.

Car Shower (09) [1024x576].jpg

Car Shower (10) [1024x576].jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
this is the heat exchanger itself. I put some taps on the ends of the coil. mainly so I can close the coil up and keep stuff from getting in there when not in use.

Car Shower (11) [1024x576].jpg

Im not terribly happy with the solder connections on the brass fittings. I still might silver solder them together later on. Buff them up all nice and shiny then reattach them back to the coil. but for now it works fine

Car Shower (12) [1024x576].jpg

I put some bracing in between the inlet and outlet tubes to stiffen it up a bit.

Car Shower (13) [1024x576].jpg

The copper coil has been silver soldered to itself so it does not collapse and rattle around.

Car Shower (14) [1024x576].jpg

Car Shower (15) [1024x576].jpg

not the best silver soldering. I needed a bit more heat as you can see the solder hasn't fully taken to the copper.

Car Shower (16) [1024x576].jpg

Car Shower (17) [1024x576].jpg


shower head itself

Car Shower (18) [1024x576].jpg

Car Shower (19) [1024x576].jpg

Car Shower (20) [1024x576].jpg


In all, when I tested this, the water was being pumped through about 40m of tube. 2 15m hoses and the 10m copper coil.

Im pretty happy with it. It only took me 5 minutes to set up and 5 minutes to pack up. and it all fits inside a hessian bag.





...and this is my take on camp showering
 

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Thanks for putting 'your take' up, because it has broadened my view on things. At this stage the best camp shower I've had was an old army bucket shower. Water heated on the fire. I don't usually camp too close to water (children) and can't afford to carry more than 20l for a shower

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
 

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Ah cool idea, or should I say 'hot idea'. So I gather that you put the heat exchanger on the fire or stove. How do you regulate the temperature. Be interested to hear how the test run goes.

Once you get the technique sorted out as to how much water and how much heat then it could be a bloody nice shower rather than a little heat exchanger under the car bonnet.
 

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Well done bud, great effort, very practical.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
geordie4x4

yes. just start a small fire and throw the heat exchanger on it. Im not too sure about the regulation of heat yet. its basically going to be trial and error for the first couple of uses. Im hoping a small bed of coals will be enough to heat the water flowing through the copper. if not - bigger fire. If the water heats too much, open the shower head valve to let more water through. less time in the copper - less heat transferred into the water.

Just have to wait and see I guess...



Leethal

Thanks



Heavensent

fire bans? whats a fire ban? lol

I don't go camping unless I can have a fire... I don't really see the point IMO... its like car racing - speed limit 80kmh... wheres the fun in that...
 

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nissan gq
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I have one of these my self it is good but with mine I found it was best to set it up into a bucket and cycle the water to slowly heat the water up.

I would say this though make sure the water is running before you put it fire as a mate of mine didn't it very quickly heated what water was in side it and blew it apart ( steam pressure )

The only reason it no longer gets used is there was a fire ban on Fraser and I bought a gas powered shower system.

But good work mate it looks better then mine did....
 

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You could attach or sit it on a cast iron plate (bbq plate) to regulate the heat better or slow down the heating rate if its too hot. Of course opening the valve and increasing the flow will work too but if you only have a bucket of water or a limited supply then your shower won't last very long.
 

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Hey gumflapper,
Red dog had a good idea, circulating through a bucket. You could make that work easily.

Seeing you have a double ended pump, you could probably separate the pipes from the pump so it is two stage. That way you could pump through the heat exchanger and back into the bucket with one half of the pump. Then the other half of the pump supplies water from the bucket to the shower head, once you have got it warmed up and checked the temperature you want.

The diaphragm pumps (it looks like that one is) are fine to run dry, but whilst the water is warming up, you could have the shower sid running back into the bucket just to keep it pumping wet.
 

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Have you tested it?

My father made one almost identical, but he had a cold tap too. Not sure if there was two pumps involved or something else. Worked fantastically. Could set it up next to a river and shower for hours if you wanted to.

I'm not a fan of the engine bay heat exchangers. Realistically at idle the car is going to use so little fuel but i hate the added complexity and extra **** in the engine bay. There's already enough crap under there.
 

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A valve between the inlet and outlet of the coil would help you control the temp.

Is that a variable speed pump?

Looks good
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey gumflapper,
Red dog had a good idea, circulating through a bucket. You could make that work easily.

Seeing you have a double ended pump, you could probably separate the pipes from the pump so it is two stage. That way you could pump through the heat exchanger and back into the bucket with one half of the pump. Then the other half of the pump supplies water from the bucket to the shower head, once you have got it warmed up and checked the temperature you want.

The diaphragm pumps (it looks like that one is) are fine to run dry, but whilst the water is warming up, you could have the shower sid running back into the bucket just to keep it pumping wet.
I didn't think of doing a two stage setup. what i'll probably end up doing is sometime in the near future start a fire and test it properly and see how hot it gets. if it get too hot then I will probably do as you've suggested here...

yeah this is a diaphragm pump. I did look for a pump like this so it wont get hurt when it cavitates or ever does run dry...


Have you tested it?

My father made one almost identical, but he had a cold tap too. Not sure if there was two pumps involved or something else. Worked fantastically. Could set it up next to a river and shower for hours if you wanted to.

I'm not a fan of the engine bay heat exchangers. Realistically at idle the car is going to use so little fuel but i hate the added complexity and extra **** in the engine bay. There's already enough crap under there.
Im not a great fan of the engine bay heat exchangers either... hence I decided to make my own.


A valve between the inlet and outlet of the coil would help you control the temp.

Is that a variable speed pump?

Looks good
no its a pressure pump. it pumps up to 40PSI then cuts out. when the pressure drops below 40PSI ie. the shower is on - the pump cuts back in

there is a valve on both ends of the coil and the shower head itself. I'll be using the shower head for flow control. the only reason I put taps on the heat exchanger is to stop crap getting into them when stored plus it will keep any small amounts of water in there from leaking out when packing up or not in use.



this is the setup atm minus the details about the fittings

Car Shower (22)2.jpg
 
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