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Discussion Starter #1
Hello hope someone can help me out with this.
Iv had a good search around but can't seem to find anything to help my situation.

I have a 2010 CRD ZD30 manual wagon.
Mods are...
Dawes and needle valve.
Full 3" exhaust.
Snorkel.
9" fan under the intercooler.
Blocked EGR.

Iv got the Dawes set at a max of 18psi.
When cruising at 100kms I can only adjust the needle valve to sit around 6/7psi. Egt temps are around 350 but do easily creep up. No matter how much or little I adjust the needle valve I can't get it up to 10/11psi at 100kms where u would like it.
If I open it up more the egt rises and yes I am turning it the right way.

Can anyone shed some light on this for me?


Thanks
Kyle


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2010 DX 3ltr wagon
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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When you say you can only adjust it to 6/7psi, that should be with the needle valve fully closed, which is when maximum spoolup is achieved. I would be looking for leaks in the system if that is what you get fully closed. Does the VNT arm move freely? Do you know the full history of the vehicle, is it possible the VNT has been adjusted at some time.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When going through the gears will climb right up to 18psi.
I did some more testing this rvo at 100kms egt is more near the 400 degree mark and boost still at 7psi. Next weekend I'll have more of a play with the needle valve. If I open the needle valve more boost gets up too 8/9psi cruising at 100kms but has a lot if turbo lag and the egt is close to 500degrees. The car was completely stock when I get it. I'll have more if a play next weekend. I'll start with the needle valve fully closed and go from there.

Cheers


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2010 DX 3ltr wagon
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. Will give it a go.


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2010 DX 3ltr wagon
 

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I got sick of adjusting my needle valve. I run just a dawes now. The CRD ecu does a half decent job of running my car. But everyones different.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I had another play with the needle valve today. Started from scratch and still couldn't get it to work for me.

So one by one I replaced every bit of vacuum hose in the setup and slowly adjusted it again. Works a treat. Boost set at 11/12psi at 100kms. Egts r still around 350 degrees but don't climb as fast as before.
Thanks for all your help guys.

Cheers.


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2010 DX 3ltr wagon
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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So I had another play with the needle valve today. Started from scratch and still couldn't get it to work for me.

So one by one I replaced every bit of vacuum hose in the setup and slowly adjusted it again. Works a treat. Boost set at 11/12psi at 100kms. Egts r still around 350 degrees but don't climb as fast as before.
Thanks for all your help guys.

Cheers.


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2010 DX 3ltr wagon
Mate it is written here many times, 99% of problems with a Dawes/Needle system that has previously worked is leakage, predominently vacuum leakage, they can be hard to find for sure and sometimes a bit of a strip down is required but it still remains as 99% of the cause.
 

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nissan patrol
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I have found the needle valve alot less usefull on the CRD over the old DI systems.
Most of the time they will cruise at 10-12psi without it in there anyway.

The other thing I have seen ALOT is the ball inside the dawes valve actaully get sucked up into the middle of the spring so it no longer seats and generates low down boost.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I have found the needle valve alot less usefull on the CRD over the old DI systems.
Most of the time they will cruise at 10-12psi without it in there anyway.

The other thing I have seen ALOT is the ball inside the dawes valve actaully get sucked up into the middle of the spring so it no longer seats and generates low down boost.
Wow, that's a new one on me, never seen or heard of that occurring with any of the ones I've fitted and I've got 3 of my own, is that with old softer spring, new firmer spring or all of the above. Has someone changed the size of the ball at some time, I know Darren hasn't, I have around 20 spares Darren sent me last year when I told him a few guy's had pulled them apart and lost the ball, is it possible this has happened and a smaller ball has gone in? as said I've never heard of it.

I also have the ceramic ball in my hi pressure side and had no issues with that either.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I have had it happen with alot of new ones in the last year or so + old ones from years back.
Next time I'm talking to Darren I'll mention it to him, but as said I have not come across it in my time with both old and new :confused: and like you I have fitted a few and had zero negative feedback.

The OD of the genuine ball is 0.312" (7.93mm) and the OD of the spring is 0.271" (6.96mm), that is a fair difference and one would assume it would take considerable force to push the spring over the ball, I certainly can't manage it just by hand. My high side reacts very quickly and with more force than most as it is running 18.5psi.

Anyway I'll take it up with Darren shortly and get his feedback.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Just contacted Darren before he left here's his reply.

[FONT=HelveticaNeue,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,Lucida Grande,sans-serif][FONT=HelveticaNeue,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,Lucida Grande,sans-serif]Hi Ross,
It is POSSIBLE for this to happen and it has to do with taking it apart, then putting it back the wrong way. The heavier spring has less clearance than the old skinny spring. It is POSSIBLE for it to catch on the i.d. of the controller if it is improperly assembled. The right way to assemble it is to hold the main part of the controller vertical and then put the spring it. Tighten the top a couple turns until the ball does not rattle. Then, flip it over and tap the 2-way in your palm or a soft surface like a rug. The ball should not rattle when you shake the controller, but when you tap it on the end, you should hear the ball lift and a slight "tick" sound. This means everything is seated. If you can't easily tighten the tip to stop the rattle, without things binding, it means the bottom of the spring is hung up on the inside edge. You could also blow in the single port end and if it doesn't leak, it is likely seated. However, all of that said, it is tough to get them to hang up unless you assemble them horizontally. Once it is seated, the spring cannot bind because it the ball will never lift far enough for the end of the spring to hit the edge. I know, I've tested them with bursts of 90 psi. If one person seems to be having this problem, I think they may be "inspecting" them first. We test every one to make sure it is seated and then it goes through 3 days of testing, before going in the shipping bag. So they are pre-pre-set. Feel free to reprint any part of this.
Well, I've been waiting on a neat test part for you to try out, but it has yet to arrive. It is coming in from Europe and so, I've been to the Post Office to check on it a couple times. I'm about to head out on vacation, so it will likely have to wait until January.

[FONT=HelveticaNeue,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,Lucida Grande,sans-serif][FONT=HelveticaNeue,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,Lucida Grande,sans-serif]Regards,
Darren Dawes
3 Bar Racing Inc.[/FONT]
[/FONT]

[/FONT]
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nissan patrol
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So the most possible cause is the assembly being pulled apart before we receive it!
The packaging is only sealed in bubble wrap with a bit of adhesive on the folding edge so it isnt beyond the realm of normal.

I will make sure to pull every one apart and put it back together before using them again..

The scary part is on two occasions the valves have been installed by customers and run fine for a number of weeks before I set them on a dyno, only to run into the issue 15-20 dyno runs into the tuning.
 
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