[Gold Seeking Patrol]

Hi everyone I'd love some input on where to look next to fix my 2010 crd St auto.about 6 months ago I was driving and I heard a loud pop like an intercooler pipe blowing off. I pulled over checked it all looked good but since then it has run very slugish and blowing smoke and hard to start and had an engine knock which got louded and louder, eventually got so bad was struggling to get over 40kmph 700 plus egts and heaps of black smoke and impossible to start without start ya bastardand throw this code P0341 Camshaft position sensor. I changed a few parts, glow plugs fuel pressure relief valve fuel and air filter. Nothing made a difference so I booked it into a diesel tuner. They changed the injectors and injection pump genuine fuel filter and put a hpd boost controller in. That made it heaps better to drive fixed the fuel and boost issue for sure and low stable egts however did nothing for my load engine knock and slugish motor.i left there with all the same codes and out of pocket 5k and no money left for more repairs. It's also got a manifold leak I can hear when it's cold.the mechanic at doctor diesel said the engine knock sounded like the possible can timing jumped half a tooth in his words. Not timing chain as it wasn't a sound from the bottom of the engine.

So I've done about 1000km since getting it back mind you it sat at the panel beaters for about 6 weeks I made sure I sent it almost empty and put a full tank when I got it back. Last night filled up at BP and 30km down the road the car just started power down then shut off and I can't start it. It doesn't even crank over so I left the car on the side of the road. Not sure if the car shutting off related to the earlier problems or bad fuel or som sort of relay. I check a few fuses that I thought msy be relavent and I also took a fuel sample from the primer and it's looks clean to me. Not sure what to do next other that check more fuses and relays. I've included a video of someone else's car I got off this page and mine is doing the exact same thing when I try and start it. I haven't been able to check for new codes yet but I will tonight and hopefully try a few ideas.

 

[GQshayne]

I would do a compression test first. Of course you will need to get it cranking first to be able to do that. I would be looking at the starter circuit, and then the starter motor to figure out why it is not cranking.

You could try turning it over by hand too, it may tell you something.

 

[Gold Seeking Patrol]

I would do a compression test first. Of course you will need to get it cranking first to be able to do that. I would be looking at the starter circuit, and then the starter motor to figure out why it is not cranking.

You could try turning it over by hand too, it may tell you something.

Thanks Shayne I'll give it a go, I plan to tow it home tomorrow.

 

[Nikolay]

you should always start by reading errors and viewing diagnostics, the pressure in the rail at idle should be 34+-, there should not be serious errors, buy an inexpensive Chinese scanner

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[RoBoCoP]

Not sure the cam can jump half a tooth. Unless your engine has variable valve timing then any jumping of timing would be a full tooth and the noise would come from the top end as it would be pistons hitting valves. If the knocking noise got worse, then perhaps a bigend bearing. Drop the sump/oil and check for metal filings in the oil.

However any knocking noise can be many different things. Injectors, valves hitting pistons, bigend bearing, faulty cam and/or crank sensors. sticking valves or broken valve springs.

In my GU rd28 I had a knocking noise especially when starting and stopping the engine, so I didn't drive it for months. Then when going to fix it, as I was pulling the viscous fan hub I saw the power steering tensioner bolt had come undone and was hitting the steering box. problem solved.

 

[Gold Seeking Patrol]

Not sure the cam can jump half a tooth. Unless your engine has variable valve timing then any jumping of timing would be a full tooth and the noise would come from the top end as it would be pistons hitting valves. If the knocking noise got worse, then perhaps a bigend bearing. Drop the sump/oil and check for metal filings in the oil.

However any knocking noise can be many different things. Injectors, valves hitting pistons, bigend bearing, faulty cam and/or crank sensors. sticking valves or broken valve springs.

In my GU rd28 I had a knocking noise especially when starting and stopping the engine, so I didn't drive it for months. Then when going to fix it, as I was pulling the viscous fan hub I saw the power steering tensioner bolt had come undone and was hitting the steering box. problem solved.

Oh wow very luck with that one I'll definitely have a look at the pulley system and make sure it's all working and tight. With a faulty cam or crank sensor, what does it make the engine do differently if it's not working. How may that make a knock? I hope it's something simple like that

 

[Nikolay]

Ask the guys who repaired the motor to give you the scanner data, I will try to tell you what is the reason, do not look for a black cat in a dark room, you need to connect the scanner and look at all the data on the motor, this is not td42 and not rd28 for you

 

[RoBoCoP]

Oh wow very luck with that one I'll definitely have a look at the pulley system and make sure it's all working and tight. With a faulty cam or crank sensor, what does it make the engine do differently if it's not working. How may that make a knock? I hope it's something simple like that

The cam and crank sensors help with the timing in electronic injector pumps. Injecting fuel at the wrong time can cause what seams like a knocking noise as the fuel detonates out of synch.

As Nikolay said, you need to get the fault codes. If it is a cam sensor fault then you need to replace it.

Can you turn the engine over by hand - socket on the harmonic balancer with long bar handle. However if you can't get the engine to turn over by hand your engine is locked up, usually caused by either the timing chain is slipped/jumped teeth or you've done a big end bearing and the piston is now seized in the bore.

 

[Gold Seeking Patrol]

The cam and crank sensors help with the timing in electronic injector pumps. Injecting fuel at the wrong time can cause what seams like a knocking noise as the fuel detonates out of synch.

As Nikolay said, you need to get the fault codes. If it is a cam sensor fault then you need to replace it.

Can you turn the engine over by hand - socket on the harmonic balancer with long bar handle. However if you can't get the engine to turn over by hand your engine is locked up, usually caused by either the timing chain is slipped/jumped teeth or you've done a big end bearing and the piston is now seized in the bore.

Thanks heaps for that I'll try and turn it over by hand, after you explaining the sensor help with timing the fuel injection it makes me wonder why doctor diesel mechanics changed the injectors and injection pump without changing the cam or crank angle sensors or opening up the motor.

 

[Nikolay]

the engine will start without a camshaft sensor, don't reinvent the wheel, connect a scanner and post the data here otherwise you will look for last year's snow for a very long time)

 

[Gold Seeking Patrol]

the engine will start without a camshaft sensor, don't reinvent the wheel, connect a scanner and post the data here otherwise you will look for last year's snow for a very long time)

I have scanned it again with my cheap scanner nothing new came up. I'll get a buy a better scanner in the next day or two or I'll get the car towed again.

 

[Nikolay]

The problem is electrical, possibly bad ground contacts, bad contact in the chips, the wire is broken, the battery needs to be charged and the terminals and connection to the generator checked for them, you need to try replacing the main relay for a while.
I understand that your climate is dry and the contacts are unlikely to have corrosion, but you need to check everything.
still very important!! you reset the error, but after that do not start the engine, but again check for an error, if the error has not reset, then the wires or the sensor have a short circuit

 

[Gold Seeking Patrol]

Thanks for all your replies, tonight had a look around the engine found a few things

Diesel around cylinder 3/4 and looks like it may be coming from the injector lines on the fuel rail side.

I removed the camshaft position sensor for inspection and testing. First thing I noticed was something has warn down the sensor ( what could cause that ) and I tried to test the sensor with my multimeter but couldn’t get a steady reading. I tried alternating black and red on the plug pins.

I am uploading photos

 

[Nikolay]

judging by your photos, you have a problem with the chain, gears, something broke inside where the gears are. We recently had a case, the gear broke, the oil pump bolt got out and damaged the gear.
I'll try again, the engine starts even without a camshaft sensor.

 

[Gold Seeking Patrol]

Im hearing what your saying, my start problem is not the sensor. As you wrote that, I was searching up timing chain kits. I will start pulling the timing case off tonight after work and get ready for a pain in the but job.

I will take the thermo fan and shroud off to get access, any thoughts of if I should remove radiator for access?

 

[Nikolay]

first I would remove the valve cover and look, in the future for convenience it is better to remove the radiator and battery

 

[Gold Seeking Patrol]

Thanks I will do.

 

[Gold Seeking Patrol]

Hey guys an update, the problem it’s not100% fixed I’m sort of learning to deal with it. What happened was one of the cams snapped I don’t know why which is why I couldn’t turn it over. Also chipped timing gear tooth and bent some sort of tab on the cam gear.
I had 2 new genuine cams put in new timing chain kit and all new gears 2 new camshaft position sensors because after all that it still has error codes so they suspected faulty new cam position sensor. Since getting it back it drives much nicer I guess. Recently blocked egr and repaired warped manifold and replaced stock inter cooler with an eBay special which over all have made it much nicer to drive. It is still hard to start with the same camshaft position codes. Battery replaced. Fuel filter replaced ( genuine) Now I’m leaning towards sucking air in some where as primer fails to stay hard and fuel cap is pressurised. Hoping to find some clear tube to run from filter to IP the only heavy duty clear hose I found had white Criss cross pattern and I’m concerned I may not see air bubble coming through. Has anyone bought decent clear hose? I tried to get new fuel line but out of stock at super cheap I’ll go to pirtek soon. I also have a lose negative terminal on the batter which I will replace tomorrow.

 

[geeyoutoo]

Any clear hose will do, you won't be driving on it, just monitoring it while idling and someone giving it a rev, that's all you need to see if air is leaking in.

 

[Gold Seeking Patrol]

Any clear hose will do, you won't be driving on it, just monitoring it while idling and someone giving it a rev, that's all you need to see if air is leaking in.

Sweet I’ll pick up some tomorrow thanks