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1989 GQ TD42 wagon
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 10 pin rocker switch, and I've been wiring up the plug to suit. Problem is, with all 10 pins inserted (yes, I need all 10 of them for this application, and yes all the pins have inserted correctly) it's as tight as a drum and I can't push the switch into the plug. Anybody got any handy ideas/tricks?

@Leethal ?
 

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nissan
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56 Posts
Where did you get the packing plug from? I've had a few of these in the past that didn't line up correctly. Also, having 10 female spade crimps in one block is going to need a lot of force to connect, you may want to widen the gaps in the female crimps to help get the plug in.

I did 28 of these on my build, they make patching switches so much better, but its a lot of work. I found the ones that work the best to be from Duke's 4x4 Camping | 4x4 & Camping | Warner | Rocker Switches
 

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Yeah id widen the spades just a little bit. I also ripped off the little catch tab because its not really needed and just makes it too hard to disconnect if you need to.
 

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Every dog has his day
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What do you mean when you say you ‘can’t push the switch into the plug’?

Are you saying you can’t get the whole switch in to the hole in the dash? If that’s the case there’s a small square bit in the corner of the dash hole, easily filed away with a small file, and will also have to file the hole a little bigger. Careful though, only takes a fraction too much and it’s too loose.

If that’s not the issue sorry mate I’ve misunderstood the question.
 

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1989 GQ TD42 wagon
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Discussion Starter #9
What do you mean when you say you ‘can’t push the switch into the plug’?

Are you saying you can’t get the whole switch in to the hole in the dash? If that’s the case there’s a small square bit in the corner of the dash hole, easily filed away with a small file, and will also have to file the hole a little bigger. Careful though, only takes a fraction too much and it’s too loose.

If that’s not the issue sorry mate I’ve misunderstood the question.
No, the switch goes into the dash beautifully.


The plug (similar to the one shown above) is as tight f*** to get the switch into, by reason of there being 10 pins to push in simultaneously. I was wondering if, in your vast experience, you had come across some cunning trick to do it.
 

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I Have Imaginary Friends
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Bit of contact spray to lube it up.
 

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Every dog has his day
nissan
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Ah I see... sorry mate I haven’t used those types of frames.

I usually use the frames for fitting carlings that you can expand with as many as you want as they click together.

I assume you need the double pole because it switches a six port solenoid and also the fuel gauge wiring?

Really sorry mate haven’t come across that do not sure what to suggest.

I’m not anywhere near home either so I can’t go and get one to fiddle with.

Does using uninsulated terminals help?
 
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1989 GQ TD42 wagon
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2,237 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ah I see... sorry mate I haven’t used those types of frames.

I usually use the frames for fitting carlings that you can expand with as many as you want as they click together.

I assume you need the double pole because it switches a six port solenoid and also the fuel gauge wiring?

Really sorry mate haven’t come across that do not sure what to suggest.

I’m not anywhere near home either so I can’t go and get one to fiddle with.

Does using uninsulated terminals help?
Close. Double pole switch for the 6 port solenoid (6 pins of the switch), and two pins each for the independent lights in the switch. The gauges would be switched at/by the solenoid if I had wired it that way. Instead I have 2 separate gauges, rather than switching between tanks.

Anyhoo, I just took the actuator off and used brute force to push the switch in. About 20 times by the time testing and debugging was done :rolleyes:.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Why don't you make up a pigtail harness? Leave the plug on the switch permanently connected and have a second plug set 150-200mm down the line which is easier to connect/disconnect?
I did. Of course, the other plugs I had available won't fit through the hole in the dash, so I had to feed it through from behind the dash. And the switch won't fit through the hole in the dash, so I tested and debugged with it hanging loose (or cable tied out of the way), and then had to separate it to push the plug through from the back of the dash for final installation.

Had to swap a couple of pins during the testing stage, so the switch had to be unplugged each time to enable removal of the pins.

PITA job, but I got there eventually 🍻.
 
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