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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gday everyone.

Well took the ute in for a pink slip and they knocked it back saying the engine mounts are stuffed and I need to get them fixed since the rego runs out at the end of the week.

So I was just wondering if anybody had any tips or tricks to swapping them out? I'll have access to an engine crane and stuff, but is there anything I need to remove to access the mounting bolts? They look like they'll be difficult to get to and getting a good swing on them with a breaker bar or spanner could be difficult.

Cheers guys
 

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Did the passenger side not long ago, I used an engine crane and found it not too difficult however was a bit of buggering around tightening nuts. Took me an arvo however I checked my valve lash too.

Do you have to do one or both? Have you tested them yourself? Generally the passenger side goes first.

Process to do the passenger side was approx.:
1. Remove intake, I/C , spare battery (just to give you room to get to it- makes like a little easier and only takes 5min to pull all this off)
2. Connect engine crane to engine, undo passenger engine mount nut (the big middle one) 17mm from memory also loosen the driver’s side but leave the nut on the thread a little to stop you from lifting the engine too far.
3. Lift the engine until you see it swing, this didn’t pull any pipes and nothing was too tight in doing this for me. Be careful though!
4. Undo engine mount (14mm). Takes a little longer than it sounds here but not impossible. I did unbolt a solid pipe from its mount to allow my ratchet to get in there. Smashed my knuckles to, mainly cracking the 17mm nut with an open ended spanner.
5. Once in lower the engine a little, throw the nut on that joins the mounts, and start on the driver side mount. There is less room to get at it here so expect it to take a little longer.
6. Bolt it all back together

That’s about it really; it might be worth getting a price to have a shop do it. They’d probably be able to knock it over in an hour or two and saves you taking a day off work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Great write up, thanks heaps. I had a look at them and yes the PS is pretty well buggered and the DS is showing signs of cracking too.

I'm going to have to do it one arvo after work I think. I've also thought about just letting someone else do it, but I'm still undecided. Thanks again for the info
 

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If you have access to an engine crane and a range of different 14mm and 17mm sockets and spanners it's not too bad a job but keep in mind that you might lose a little skin along the way...

I found it a little easier to loosen/remove the engine bracket that the mount/s bolt to. This can help align the little dimple on the mount as there won't be as much pressure on it.

Please do your self a favour and buy genuine Nissan mounts. The aftermarket ones look the same, smell the same, and the rubber even seems to flex the same but sadly in my experience they sag under the weight of the engine and you might get a horrible vibration coming through. I tried to save a few bucks but it just cost me more in the long run before I learnt my lesson:(

Due to the design of the mount, there is very little room for error and if the rubber sags you will get metal-on-metal contact creating the vibration.
 

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Give me a minute and I'll dig up a another thread regarding engine mounts. Defiantly go the genuine article but also note worthy are the heavy duty replacements for a similar price from Superior or the like. Replace Passengers side with heavy duty item and drivers side with genuine is the go.

Edit : Found it and bumped it. Over in the engine section here's a link if your interested.

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-55/td42-engine-mounts-170498/
 
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