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Discussion Starter #1
Well not too cheap, I'm looking at 240v 200amp units in the 1500-2000 dollar range. I've been looking around but the specs are starting to do my head in.
square wave, soft square wave, sine wave, trapezoidal wave, ac+dc hybrid wave squiggly wave blah blah
Any recomendations would be appreciated
 

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Weekend Warrior
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Pay attention to the duty cycle for the rated output, this will determine how much of the day you will be waiting for the temp light to go out.

If using it daily for work, stick to a big brand with good local service like BOC, lincoln, miller, in my honest opinion.

What are you welding and how often?

I own this welder and shes a beauty.
http://www.boc.com.au/shop/en/au-boc-industrial-store/boc-smootharc-185-ac-dc-tig-welder

But I only do hobby stuff
 

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Doing It My Way
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The best bang for your buck ac/dc tig will be the UNI MIG ac/dc 200amp it's 240 volt ,3 year warranty. It comes with everything you need it's foot pedal compatible, and if you wait till Hare & forbs have their EOFY sale you'll get a great deal with a foot pedal included. Ac stands for alternating current you need ac to tig aluminum. It will come with a stick hand pice as well. I can't remember what the duty cycle is but you won't out do it tig or stick welding.
Me and my mate's all run these at home . P's We're all boiler makers. $1300 approximately.
 

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i agree with boosted6 theres a few different brands that all put their sticker on that tig, at my last work we had 1 dont remember the brand but it was yellow, unless you have a very very poxy welder the average person will never hit the duty cycle, ive only ever got it once on a mig and i was laying a weld a couple of meters long around a 5mm steel square to round,
 

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Weekend Warrior
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There's "what you should be doing to save your machinery"

Then there's "well look at that Cletus, it just keeped on goin and goin!"
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Its for my own use and i will only be using it for thin alloy or stainless, I have a fronius caddy welder and liquidarc mig for anything else. I will be setting it up at work so I can use it as much as possible while learning to tig aluminium without worrying about how much argon i use;)

Boosted6 thanks for reminding me of the EOFY sales. What's the pedal like? I was thinking of getting one instead of a torch with amp control as I already have a good 17 series torch.

Gee that cigweld does alright Inbits but I'm sure its not just the welder, do you reckon the Ac frequency control and crater control make much of a difference on aluminium compared to units like the unimig that don't have it? I'm definitely leaning towards a digital unit. With all the bells and whistles lol.

Which in my price range is the
CIG weldskill 200 ac dc
Lincoln powercraft 200 ac dc
Tokentools metalmaster 210 ac dc
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cool I was thinking I'm wobbly enough without trying to turn a knob while trying to keep the torch still as well.
 

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Imo crater control and frequency control is great... Crater control is good whenbuilding tanks etc helps avoiding pin holes at the end of your weld...
I spent alot of time using fronius and even a big old 3 phase Kemppi unit
Get a foot pedal if your budget allows makes for much better control
The cig ces woth flexy head and amp Control on the torch and takes a foot pedal
 

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Anti I got a Top Gun one from gentronics, just need to learn how to tig ally:)
Your welcome to come out and give it a try, has foot control
Go see Gentronics they resonably good and helpful with a good selection
 
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Haha once you figure it out you can show me
I was in gentronics a couple weeks back grabbing some consumables for the plasma cutter at work and i saw those silver machines but didnt take much notice of them at the time. Now ive had a look at there website and have noticed the topgun 200 Ac/Dc and Tokentools Alupulse 210 are the same machines.
Will go in there once i get back from this site job and see what they have to say.
 

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when you say crater control do you just mean the downslope, thats the only way ive been shown the stop the friggen wormhole, it only happens when your trying to tig somthing you dont want to leak
 

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when you say crater control do you just mean the downslope, thats the only way ive been shown the stop the friggen wormhole, it only happens when your trying to tig somthing you dont want to leak
Yeah downslope is crater control... And yep always the way leaks when you don't want it to... Last fuel tank I made though big one for bosses big*** boat not one leak
 

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Discussion Starter #16
From reading the manuals when in 4T mode you push and hold the trigger switch to start the down slope and decrease amps until it reaches the crater amps you have set.
It will stay at this amperage until you release the trigger to stop the arc and begin the post flow.
 

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the way ive used down slope is after you take you finger off the button it starts the downslope i cant use tigs where its a button press on and a button press off i always forget lol
 

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the way ive used down slope is after you take you finger off the button it starts the downslope i cant use tigs where its a button press on and a button press off i always forget lol
You'd soon get to love and appreciate 4t mode when doing long runs... I know I do haha
 

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The Member Formerly Known as Lusty Dusty
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Struth....what sort of gear is out there now...to me you guys are talking double-dutch....lol.

I'm still using a 20 year old $99 arc-welder.

Must get up to speed with all this current technology. Where's a good place to start?

Cheers.....Lionel.
 
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