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Discussion Starter #1
Around this time last year I drove a 1993 LWB Safari TD42T off the docks in Long Beach and registered the rig in Nevada (yes, I'm a Yank). But then I attempted to transfer the registration to California. I took advice from a handful of guys who'd managed the feat with old Land Cruisers, and I thought I pulled it off. Got plates, waited for title and final registration to arrive. But a paper-pusher in Sacramento caught on and flagged the rig. Which brings me to my current predicament.

My only option now is to have the vehicle tested in a lab to verify it meets 1993 US standards. I'm convinced it does, but Nissan North America, Nissan Japan, and UD have all refused to help for various reasons that have nothing to do with the vehicle's actual emissions. This engine (minus the EGR valve present on mine) was certified for use in the UD 1300 and 1400 trucks over here in 1993 (albeit to a slightly different standard given their GVWR over 8500 lbs). Also, at the time, Japanese standards were more stringent than US standards for all emissions aside from particulate matter. In any case, I am convinced I can get this rig to pass, but I intend to spruce it up a little to make sure it definitely does pass the very expensive lab test. That's where I am looking for input.

What would you guys do to make sure this vehicle runs as clean as it possibly can? I figure this should be approached in two ways: 1. Increase fuel efficiency, as emissions will be tested in grams/mile. 2. Get the fuel to burn as completely as possible. I guess those are close to the same, but maybe not completely

New fuel and air filters right before the test are on the list. Also, I am thinking of dumping the HT18 turbo and fitting something that spools up early and pushes as much air as possible for a very lean tune. A new 3" exhaust with a brand new cat seems like it may be wise, as well. This is an auto, and I will probably do a transmission fluid drain/refill, as well.

Thoughts? Thanks in advance for all of your help. I really do appreciate it.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Wow, sorry I can't help but man that was a trap, I'm sure some of our US guys can help out, is it possible to have it registered in another, easier state if you have a trusted address there, the guys in Texas don't seem to have these issues, California does have a reputation.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I forgot to mention that I'm running 33" tires with I believe the original gearing. I haven't confirmed the gearing. But I know the bigger tires are dinging my mileage and this will be a problem. I'm currently getting about 18 mpg on the highway, but from what I hear some of these rigs get 25-plus. So what would be the ideal tire size for fuel efficiency? The answer I'm looking for is only for running an empty rig on a dyno. I'll likely throw the 33s back on immediately after the test.

Oh, and I believe I can register this without a hassle in every state aside from California (EPA doesn't care about emissions after 21 years, safety certification becomes irrelevant at 25). So out-of-state registration is a possible route for me to take, but I'd prefer to register and insure it straight-up for a handful of reasons.
 

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2x ford mavricks
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could you fit a partlic filter in the exhaust or pehap fit some form of water injection just thinking out loud here keep us posted
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Absolutely and a catalytic converter would do wonders.
There is a cat on there already, but no idea how old it is or how well it's working. I was already thinking a new one would be a good idea. Might even make it smell better in the parking lot at my kid's school when I park between the Rolls Royces and Bentleys. SoCal is a crazy place...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
get your pump and injectors replaced as well. old injectors will have poor spray patterns and fuel delivery so will effect the outcome of this. run it lean and away she goes.
Pump, too? Injectors seem like a very good idea. Hadn't really thought about replacing the pump, though. It is 26 years old I guess, but I'm only at 115k on the dial.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Also, i'm not entirely sure if the fuel is tested or supplied entirely by the lab. But thoughts on putting some percentage of vegetable oil in the tank? I'm pretty sure it would help with emissions, but I have no idea about other consequences in a rig that's never run this before.
 

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Years ago a work colleague showed me a schematic of a belt driven air pump fitted to a flat 6 air-cooled Porsche 911 engine. I think it was from the late 70's / early 80's...? All this thing did, was pump fresh air into the exhaust, to "dilute" emissions.
 

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nissan
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Search secondary air injection pumps
A lot of new cars use them such as Mercedes
You will find plenty on eBay I would imagine
12v air pump straight into the exhaust....
 

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2001 GU ST TD42t coil cab (gold)
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Years ago a work colleague showed me a schematic of a belt driven air pump fitted to a flat 6 air-cooled Porsche 911 engine. I think it was from the late 70's / early 80's...? All this thing did, was pump fresh air into the exhaust, to "dilute" emissions.
Search secondary air injection pumps
A lot of new cars use them such as Mercedes
You will find plenty on eBay I would imagine
12v air pump straight into the exhaust....
I bought an MG Midget in from Cal with the A Series BMC engine which had the smog pump. The head was actually a different casting with tapped ports for the pump plumbing which injected the air close to the valves. In later vehicles I believe they sometimes use it upstream of the cat to warm it quicker then in the cat to assist with burn coupled to a richer mixture.

It wasn't so much to dilute the exhaust emissions but was designed to allow the unburnt fuel, which was far greater than today in the old carby vehicles, to burn in almost a secondary nature to reduce the emissions.

At any rate I suspect it is a petrol only technology as I'm not sure the unburnt diesel would have the temp in the system to combust properly and reduce the emissions in that format. Even if it did burn off in the exhaust wouldn't that create more NoX emissions??
 

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2001 GU ST TD42t coil cab (gold)
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Oh OK so then maybe it would generate more soot, so doing just the opposite of what we want here. Suppose it also depends on exactly what they test for in Cal for that vintage engine/vehicle.
 

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My first car had a smog pump, but the valve that stopped it pumping air when you lifted off the throttle died, meaning it "backfired" (not an actual backfire, but it sounded like it and damaged the exhaust) with every gear change.

A new valve cost more than the car was worth so I didn't bother fixing it; and coincidentally the belt driving the smog pump broke :oops:!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It's at 115,000 km, not miles. Still old at 26 years, but it's in better shape than most cars even a year or two old. This summer I was visiting family that was staying at a really high end resort nearby, and the valet parkers put the old beast up front, literally next to a McLaren. That was a first for me. People do go bonkers over this thing over here. Occasionally an Aussie or someone from the ME knows what it is, but mostly everyone gawks and asks, "What is that thing?"

I'll definitely think about the pump. If I'm going to do it, I'll probably think about the 12mm upgrade while I'm at it. Any recommendations for where to pick up a pump and new injectors?

In researching vegetable oil briefly, it seems there's a big improvement in all emissions from it--aside from NOx. I'll figure out if my own fuel would even be used before I research this much further, though.

Thanks for the air injection idea. It's something I hadn't thought of and actually know nothing about. I'll take a look, though. If it's just diluting the emissions, it may not help me, though. The test measures each type of emissions in grams/mile, so a parts per million reduction probably won't do anything for me. Still, I'll read up on this a bit.

Thanks to all of you though for your help. I'll keep you posted with what I do and how this plays out.
 
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