[rejy]

Hi everyone, found no results on my issue so im posting now. I have a clutch that when it gets hot say stuck on a hill climb for 10 min it actually goes to the floor and stays there then after a few seconds or a few hard kicks it comes back up slowly.
Machanics have said without cetainty it could be a hydraulic problem so they changed the clutch fluid and once they got under the car they said we think it could be the fact that the steel heat shield that protects the slave unit under the car next to the dump pipe is on backwards and is putting heat straight onto the slave unit and is boiling the fluid.
Can anyone shed some light for me i own a 99 gu 4.2TD.

 

[jimako]

Boiling the fluid will cause it to expand.

Not familiar with this particular vehicle / clutch system, but assuming its hydraulic.
Probably a leak in Master or Slave cylinder, do you loose clutch fluid ?
Pull boots aside and see if it looks oily.

 

[Ed C]

Ummm, I just re-read your post..

I'll just go away for a while...................................


:cheers:

 

[TB45_Bruce]

I just had the same problem while changing the clutch fluid (which had been changed 18 months ago, so it wasn't that old and the level was right on the max mark when I started the job). The fluid looked pretty clean, but I had to hook my toe under the pedal to get it to start its way back up. It all worked fine when the job was finished. Anybody know what is happening?

98 GU wagon

 

[SeSp]

I had the same, was my master cylinder.

 

[89 GQ]

Try bleeding the clutch, more than likely its got abit of air in there and when you depress the pedal you compress the air and because there is not enough resistance from the fluid, the clutch pedal doesn't come back to the correst position.

 

[THE FERRET]

Ummm, I just re-read your post..

I'll just go away for a while...................................


:cheers:

Yeah, Me too!!, backwards eh??

 

[hellfire_bitchslap]

sounds like the master cylender, if it was air in the line etc it would be spongy all the time. a fluid change might help free up a sticky master cylender piston but best to replace it.

 

[GUTourer]

Try bleeding the clutch, more than likely its got abit of air in there and when you depress the pedal you compress the air and because there is not enough resistance from the fluid, the clutch pedal doesn't come back to the correst position.

^^ what he said.

 

[rejy]

Thanks guys who answered.
There was no loss of fluids no signs of leaking and yes its hydraulic.
Fliud has since been changed i havent yet had the chance to get it hot or go where it happended last but i do feel that the clutch is allowing me to change gears easier especially back to 2nd form 3rd..

 

[sparky08]

sparky

i had the same problem. changed clutch,slave & master cyls. however it still did not fix the problem.. turned out to be the booster on the clutch master cyl.. ( convincing someone & finding somewhere to properly reco. it was another story.) hope this helps.

 

[rejy]

oh wow really well i hope i dont have to replace all that to have them tell me that as well dam sorry to hear that.

 

[jackd]

rejy, if the troll engine is not turned on, does the clutch pedal seem to work fine. And when you start the engine it goes to the floor and stays there. father in Law has 99 GU 4.5. This is the problem Father in Law had, we changed master cylinder, clutch, slave cylinder, still no good. In the end we removed the vacum line and the clutch worked fine. He drove from canberra to grafton towing his caravan with no vacum assist, he didn't have any trouble. Turns out it was the vacum server/line/clutch booster, can't remember exactly which one. He ended replacing it and it works fine now. Hope this helps and sheds a little more light.

 

[SeSp]

I not sure why people go to the effort of reconditioning an old slave or master when a new one isnt much more and the reco'ed one wont last nearly as long.

 

[jackd]

I totally agree, cost FIL (father in law) about 270 for new master and slave cylinders (trade price)

 

[crayman]

I not sure why people go to the effort of reconditioning an old slave or master when a new one isnt much more and the reco'ed one wont last nearly as long.

I go for a re-sleeved master cylinder over new if the price is comparable.
A re-sleeve gives you a stainless bore, not the questionable alloy that wears oval and can't be successfully re-kitted.
You can safely put a kit through a re-sleeved cylinder in the future (if it ever needs it) very cheaply.

 

[rejy]

Jackd. It only happens when its done some hard labour. For eg i just bought a camper trailer and my driveway is on a hill when i reverse it up the hill by the time its sitting in the shed the clutch is sitting in the last position that i had my foot at eg maybe half way.
So only when it does some work (heavy work). driving around town and on trips no problems.
Might check all my lines tomorrow its also going back to machanic to sort some other stuff out and to do a dyno so might pass my learnings over to him and see what he sais.

 

[bennoGU28]

Any chance you can connect a vac gauge to you vac tank/system and see whats shes doing?

 

[rejy]

Will look into it, machanics said something about if i could get it to happen while im there they can disconnect a line that should tell them the answer im looking for.

 

[jackd]

Rejy, FIL's got hot and lost pressure when he was towing caravan up Clyde Mountain. Whilst it wasn't hot it was fine. Mechanic couldn't figure it out after he replaced clutch, thats when we were there, FIL asked him to block vacum line with a bolt and other end as well. Did that whilst we were there, bingo problem solved. We only clicked to it the night before over a few beers. We had gone through all our manuals, asked questions here, googled it, nothing. A few beers and a brainstorm and bingo, an idea appeared. Amazing what problems a few beers can solve.