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Discussion Starter #1
Since buying my '97 GQ two years ago I've found that the clutch pedal needs to be all the way to the floor before it'll disengage enough to put it into gear. It's usually difficult to get it into 1st from a standstill so I've got in the habit of selecting 1st just before I get to a complete stop and hold it in while I sit at the lights.

I've tried some basic tests: It doesn't slip under load, that's snatching a car up a hill offroad, starting the car uphill (stalls) and under heavy acceleration it can slot straight into the next gear up. I can start driving away in 4th and it doesn't shudder in reverse uphill so I figure the clutch itself is in decent shape.

I've bled the system, including the slave, and I think I've got all the bubbles (and scunge) out of it. The bleed screw on the slave cylinder needed to be removed since it was completely blocked with rust. Managed to clear that fine. The master cylinder did have a bad leak only a couple of months after I got it so I figure that the vacuum booster must be worn too and be leaking. Perhaps not enough pressure to move the clutch fork enough??

What do you think fellas, my instinct sound right to you? I'm thinking of chasing down a 2nd hand vacuum booster but before I hand over the dosh I thought I should see if there are some other common issues that it could otherwise be.
 

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How much free pedal does it have ? You either have air in the line causing lost motion or the clutch needs adjusting .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I thought perhaps there's still some air in the line too and I'll get around to that again later. The pedal adjustment is at it's maximum and the clutch itself isn't adjustable is it?

What's a good way to diagnose whether it's the vacuum booster or not?
 

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When I bled mine , I stabbed a brake fluid bottle with a Philips screwdriver and forced a clear plastic hose into the hole . I attached the other end to the bleed nipple and squeezed the bottle as I loosened the nipple . Worked like a charm as air naturally wants to go up the line . You must take some out of the reservoir as it will overflow .

To test a vacuum booster , with the engine off pump the pedal until the vacuum is exhausted . With light pressure on the pedal , start the engine and the pedal should fall slightly , the effort will also be noticeably less if the booster is working .

Only the slave cylinder pushrod is adjustable .
 

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Hi there i have had a similar problem on a truck where i couldnt get 1st easily it also had power assisted clutch like a patrol it turned out to be a buggered preassure plate check your clutch throw out movement if it moves normal distance then that sounds like thats ya problem would prob keep that in mind if hydraulics are ok good luck with ya diagnosis
 

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x2 rockfinders

I have the same issue on my '88 Safari and am planning on bleeding the clutch this weekend, the only diffference is i have about 1/4 pedal travel free play. Never done this before as this is my first vehicle with hydraulically assisted clutch. Do you bleed it in the same fashion you would bleed brakes??

1 persom in car pushes pedal in > bleed nipple is released > fluid escapes > bleed nipple tightened > person in car releases pedal....... Repeat?
 

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x2 rockfinders

Never done this before as this is my first vehicle with hydraulically assisted clutch. Do you bleed it in the same fashion you would bleed brakes??

1 persom in car pushes pedal in > bleed nipple is released > fluid escapes > bleed nipple tightened > person in car releases pedal....... Repeat?
Attach a piece of clear plastic hose to the bleed nipple and put the other end in a bottle with some brake fluid, make sure the end is submerged in the fluid. Slack the bleed nipple and pump the clutch pedal a couple times. You need to top up the clutch master reservoir before you pump the pedal. Tighten the bleed nipple and check the operation of the clutch, if necessary repeat the procedure.
 

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somalian pig: its loosen the nipple first, then person push pedal, then tighten nipple, then person release. close! rockfinders: i have the same problem in my wagon and HAD it in the ute. solution? ute needed new clutch (not related) and mechanic adjusted the free play on the master cylinder. you can also adjust the clutch pedal rod to take up any slack there may be. the adjusters will be behind the pedal, inside the car.
 

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somalian pig: its loosen the nipple first, then person push pedal, then tighten nipple, then person release. close! rockfinders: i have the same problem in my wagon and HAD it in the ute. solution? ute needed new clutch (not related) and mechanic adjusted the free play on the master cylinder. you can also adjust the clutch pedal rod to take up any slack there may be. the adjusters will be behind the pedal, inside the car.
Cheers Mate :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cheers fellas. I'll give the clutch another bleed and see if that helps. I've found quite a few responses and different threads with the same issues and they've been solved by simply bleeding the system again. See how we go then.
 
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