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nissan
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Changed my master and slave recently as the slave had a leak and ever since I can't properly change gears. When the clutch is in it'll come back to neutral no problem but then won't go into any other gear unless the speed is perfect and it'll slide in like the old Crash Boxes.
Bled it 3 times. 2 times with the rear up. The clutch is only 4 months old. Every mechanic I've talked to said it'd just be air in the system but I'm sure it'd all be gone by now? Clutch is only about 5 months old, and I'm new to manuals so I'm at a loss here. I adjusted the clutch pedal to try and get more travel but had no luck. The slave moves the fork about 1.5cm and that's it. Doesn't look like it comes back far enough to disengage the clutch either.
So what're your thoughts? Faulty Slave/Master or Clutch issue?

I'm going to bleed it once more today and flush the lines just to make sure I've got no crap in their either. Also it changes gears fine when off or on aslong as I'm at a standstill.

EDIT: I've also changed the Gearbox oil, there was next to no Metal in there.
 

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nissan
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There's a good thread somewhere on here about bleeding a clutch, they are a real pig to get right, from memory your best to pressure bleed from slave cylinder bleed valve back to master cylinder
Adjustment of clutch pedal is really only a position thing, master cylinder travel is only so far which equals the amount of fluid into a slave to give you travel
 

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Every dog has his day
2005 TD42 GUIV
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Definately sounds like air, they can be a real bugger.

The only way I got mine to play the game was to attach a bit of thin hose from the bleed on the slave to the bleed on the front left brake caliper, crack them both and start pumping the brakes. This flushes it upwards, where the air wants to go. Just keep an eye on the reservoirs and with a big syringe empty out a bit from the clutch into the brake as you use it. This took ten minutes after I'd spent half a day stuffing around and saved my sanity.

Also you could buy a flexible hose from Road Runner that cuts out the crap T piece which goes to the other bleed at the top passenger side of the engine bay, which is half the problem. Only about $90 I think from memory for a braided one.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Will give it another shot today then take it into a shop Monday as they'd have pressure/vacuum bleeders.
Hoping that's all it is. I'd rather it be me incompetent at bleeding than something more severe haha.
Cheers guys.

Edit: Completely drained it, gravity fed it to fill it back up. Re-bled the system. There's still obviously air in there (although none was coming out), but it's letting me select gears when I want so it'll do till I can get it into a shop come next week.
 

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Used same method when I did mine and yep still had plenty of air PITA!
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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I have a brake bleeder which costs about $12 from an auto shop and allows you to do brakes on your own. Commonly referred to as a "one man brake bleeder". Makes the job very easy. I started with a dry system and had no issues with mine, done the first go in about 10 minutes.

For he small price well worth having. My experience tells me that the version with the small plastic tub works the best and lasts the longest. Others only work a few times.

This is the one I have.

 

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there's another bleeder in the corner of the engine bay on the passenger side near the firewall... if you haven't spotted that, that's your problem.
best way to bleed the system after replacing the master cylinder is to start at the master cyl, then the one in the corner of the engine bay, then the slave cyl. If it's still not right, try the bleeder in the corner of the engine bay again.
 

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gday, long story short, old mate was helping me bleed me slave cylinder on the clutch and snapped the bleed screw off flush with the cylinder. got a new one. put it together and bleed it. pedal only came half way back. pulled it all off again and even rebuilt the master cylinder ( no new parts just clean and assemble. my problem, i didnt have rubber grease on my seal and there was too much friction. lifted the front of the car, bleed master, bleed slave, bleed extra port near fuel filter and bam good as new !!!!!
 

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Safari Hoarder
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HRDSafari typed it, if you do not know about the second bleed point then you are screwed. Only issue i ever had with clutch hydraulics is if there is air in system it will get hot, expand and disengauge the clutch while driving (slip).
 

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there's another bleeder in the corner of the engine bay on the passenger side near the firewall... if you haven't spotted that, that's your problem.
best way to bleed the system after replacing the master cylinder is to start at the master cyl, then the one in the corner of the engine bay, then the slave cyl. If it's still not right, try the bleeder in the corner of the engine bay again.
I used a vacuum bleeder and had my neighbor pump the clutch with no luck.
I then tried looking for the 2nd bleeder but my tb4.2 '90 model maverick doesn't have one? its just a joint where the tunnel starts on the firewall.

The clutch feels good and the slave is pushing the fork. (When I start the car it gets a bit softer though)

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 

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Safari Hoarder
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Just thought of something. How much fluid goes back into reservoir when clutch fully depressed? look at reservoir level throughout full stroke. Does level increase while holding clutch depressed?
 
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