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Hi all,

Looking at getting a GU ute to use for touring next year. My question is should i be getting coil or leaf spring. I plan on going off road whilst touring and weight wise, will have an alloy canopy with all gear inside + rtt attached to canopy. currently got a gq wagon with rtt and drawers etc loaded on the back and can notice some sag on the back wheels but dont know how much of an indicator that is or if its really relevant to this situation. Got little to no knowledge on this topic so all information is appreciated.

Thanks <3
 

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If you go coils, I would brace the rear towers. If you're going serious touring with lots of corrugated roads, leafs in the back would be hard to beat....
 

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Yep, have a look at the GVM and take that into account. Leaf spring utes are capable of much higher ratings than the coil spring utes. This is a combination of the suitability of leaf springs to carry load, and also the load rating of the drum braked (yes, drums unfortunately) fully floating rear axel assembly.
 

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Hi all,

Looking at getting a GU ute to use for touring next year. My question is should i be getting coil or leaf spring. I plan on going off road whilst touring and weight wise, will have an alloy canopy with all gear inside + rtt attached to canopy. currently got a gq wagon with rtt and drawers etc loaded on the back and can notice some sag on the back wheels but dont know how much of an indicator that is or if its really relevant to this situation. Got little to no knowledge on this topic so all information is appreciated.

Thanks <3
Both have their place, I have leafy GU and with heavy rear springs to boot (550kg plus I think) I can put up to1.5 ton on the back and it handles ok, but unoaded it's very chattery in the cab. Of course you can get softer springs than these and probably get nicer ride.

leafies should be more affordable, coils are very comfortable and everyone seems to want them, but I'd rather have the capacity over the comfort for a work ute. You can't have the best of both worlds.

I had a front and back leafy GQ and I actually loved it's all round handling, and capacity on and off road loaded or not. But yeah hard and bumpy if used to coils.

Edit: Towing is another thing to consider, leafs shine for towing heavy
 

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Niss Torq has made a few good points, one of which I overlooked. From what I have seen, a leaf spring ute will save you some good money over a coil ute.

And weight is a big factor. In my case my GQ is 3.1T unloaded. Yes, too heavy I know. :rolleyes: But if your vehicle will be at one constant loaded weight, rather than being unloaded quite often, the leaf springs are worth considering. I may even convert mine to leaf one day for this reason (maybe).
 

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Niss Torq has made a few good points, one of which I overlooked. From what I have seen, a leaf spring ute will save you some good money over a coil ute.

And weight is a big factor. In my case my GQ is 3.1T unloaded. Yes, too heavy I know. :rolleyes: But if your vehicle will be at one constant loaded weight, rather than being unloaded quite often, the leaf springs are worth considering. I may even convert mine to leaf one day for this reason (maybe).
Yes because coils are the rage, your going to get good deals on leafy utes, and if you can live with some bumpys unloaded then your saving money and getting higher load capacity. And people here have some very capable leafies off road with the right set ups. When buying a leafy you can haggle more I guess, AND convert to coil later if you must. I'm sure somebodies converted coil to leaf like you mention, woudn't there be other ways to improve coils for constant loads though.
 

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My brother recently picked up a grandpa spec leafy GU. 2001 model with 112 klms from new. $15K but it was fairly well neglected so all fluids, new clutch, new steel tray, new suspension, snorkel, two inch lift etc etc. It was a N/A so it also has had some UFI goodness added and a dyno tune.

I have been a part of the build as he is working overseas. I took it for a drive the other day (60 klm round trip) and was pleasantly surprised about how well it drove. As in over the rough stuff as living in the northern rivers area our roads are well known for how they bad they are.

Now all the work is done next job is to strip it for a respray. Body is a little knocked around but all original and no rust. Interior is perfect with still original radio cassette player.

I would not dismiss a leafy sprung GU. Also for towing the capacity of the coil cabs is only 2500 kg.

Before the mods started.

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tire
 

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Yes because coils are the rage, your going to get good deals on leafy utes, and if you can live with some bumpys unloaded then your saving money and getting higher load capacity. And people here have some very capable leafies off road with the right set ups. When buying a leafy you can haggle more I guess, AND convert to coil later if you must. I'm sure somebodies converted coil to leaf like you mention, woudn't there be other ways to improve coils for constant loads though.
Coils work fine for constant loads, but the advantage of the leaf rear end is that it comes with the fully floating axel, which can be rated with a much higher GVM than the coil semi-floating axel.
 

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fully floating axel, which can be rated with a much higher GVM than the coil semi-floating axel.
From an ignorant old fart, can you give me a simple explanation of the difference. 🤔
 

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From an ignorant old fart, can you give me a simple explanation of the difference. 🤔
Mate to be honest you would be better off using Google!!! LOL :LOL:

The semi floating assembly has the hub and axel in one assembly with the bearings pressed on. The full floating axel has the axel separate. I cannot remember if the bearing sizes are the same or not, but the full floating assembly is much stronger, and with a GVM upgrade you can rate them at 3950kg via Pedders (if not others).

Here is a video on it.
 

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Mate to be honest you would be better off using Google!!! LOL :LOL:

The semi floating assembly has the hub and axel in one assembly with the bearings pressed on. The full floating axel has the axel separate. I cannot remember if the bearing sizes are the same or not, but the full floating assembly is much stronger, and with a GVM upgrade you can rate them at 3950kg via Pedders (if not others).

Here is a video on it.
Ahh, so it’s not how it’s mounted, it’s the construction of the whole rear assembly, thus they could be interchangeable. 💡
 
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Mate to be honest you would be better off using Google!!! LOL :LOL:

The semi floating assembly has the hub and axel in one assembly with the bearings pressed on. The full floating axel has the axel separate. I cannot remember if the bearing sizes are the same or not, but the full floating assembly is much stronger, and with a GVM upgrade you can rate them at 3950kg via Pedders (if not others).

Here is a video on it.
So that's semi-float v/s fully floating axles. Is there such a thing as a "non-floating axle"? Obviously not in a Patrol, but anywhere else?
 

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Ahh, so it’s not how it’s mounted, it’s the construction of the whole rear assembly, thus they could be interchangeable. 💡
Certainly you could replace the entire assmebly. As for modifying/swapping components, this topic has popped up here and there over the years, with no-one ever having done it that I know of. The problem is that the fully floating assembly has drum brakes, which no-one really wants. So making the disc braked assmebly fully floating would be ideal, but I have not seen it done.

Oldmav tells me it is possible.
 

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So that's semi-float v/s fully floating axles. Is there such a thing as a "non-floating axle"? Obviously not in a Patrol, but anywhere else?

Good question. I think the semi-floating designation would be due to the diff centre. So potentially an axle assembly with no differential could fit that description. Maybe.

Outside of my knowledge for sure.
 

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My brain hurts. 😵‍💫
 
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