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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After reading many threads on coolants and especially the 4.2 overheating thread, the subject of coolant type comes up often, I spent a few hours at Supercheap yesterday going over all the types of coolant on sale and finished up saying to one of their people that I was a bit confused when I came into the store but now I'm totally confused at what is the best option and also if you don't wish to spend a fortune what is a good option.

Ethylene Glycol (CH2OH)2 gets a bad wrap from many. In the old days we just whacked in coolant (or often just plain water but we often paid for that later lol) and away we went, when I was racing we didn't run thermostats just simple orifice plates for different circuits. Mixture rates are also confusing with higher Ethylene Glycol content apparently not good for actual cooling ability. The more I read the more confused I become, there appears to be many myths out there. I found a paper linked below on one aspect of the lifecycle of cylinder heads with diesel engines.

I am currently using Ethylene Glycol at 40/60 ratio, down from 50/50 of past years, I've changed coolant 3 times this year due to playing with the water cooled turbo, I've got a very slight leak that just raised its ugly head a few weeks ago and not located yet (written in build thread) that may require pulling front cover off engine so another coolant change could be on the cards, if so I would like to do it with an efficient and cost effective coolant type and maybe assist with educating myself a bit more and anyone else interested in the subject.

Remember if a ZD30 (DI or CRD) is seeing temps regularly in the mid to high 90's under normal conditions this is not 'the norm' and should be investigated.

Coolant experts! Go for it please.

Modeling of nucleate boiling in engine cylinder head cooling ducts

Below are pics of coolant on the shelf, Interestingly this one says at the bottom in the yellow strip 'not suitable for aluminium engines after 1980 something' (sorry about blurring).
514401


This one is a concentrate, they also sold it premix.
514402


This one was interesting, also says good for normal road use.
514403


Bloody expensive and to me a bit of overkill, but what do you guys reckon?
514404
 

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Patrol Hybrid.
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Getting too technical for me and my engine with it’s cast iron heads.
 

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CRD Wagon
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Getting too technical for me and my engine with it’s cast iron heads.
Your hybrid definitelty has a certain appeal tho.

Personally I'd just stick with the nissan stuff because I dont want to flush. In your case I'd go with normal cheap green ethylene glycol.
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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I personally wouldn't recommend the waterless coolant on any vehicle that will see remote travel. Can get very expensive very fast if you get a leak in the cooling system like Foo did in his truck a while back.

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nissan
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514413

I've got this in mine atm.

So far no probs and was told by the mechanics i work with that they have never had any dramas with nulon in the 30 odd years they have been servicing vehicles.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Discussion Starter #6
Does that one contain Ethylene Glycol?
This is where my confusion lies with coolant varieties and the use of this chemical and it's effect on components, forgetting environmental effects for the sake of this discussion.
 

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2000 Y61 ZD30DI
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I've always run whatever green coolant was cheap, never really thought about it. Now that I'm doing a full rebuild I've been looking into the best option as it'll be simple changing coolant type with a fresh build.
I've found it difficult to find concrete info, but do remember reading that red, blue or yellow is better than green for systems with a range of different metals. I can't remember the details, I'll try and find the info I was looking at.

I'm leaning towards the Nulon ONE brand which has 1090g/L of Ethylene Glycol. Still not sure though, hopefully some good info will be found in this thread to help with my decision.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Discussion Starter #8
I've always run whatever green coolant was cheap, never really thought about it. Now that I'm doing a full rebuild I've been looking into the best option as it'll be simple changing coolant type with a fresh build.
I've found it difficult to find concrete info, but do remember reading that red, blue or yellow is better than green for systems with a range of different metals. I can't remember the details, I'll try and find the info I was looking at.

I'm leaning towards the Nulon ONE brand which has 1090g/L of Ethylene Glycol. Still not sure though, hopefully some good info will be found in this thread to help with my decision.
You and me both mate, while at SC yesterday I noticed the same coolant brand in different colours had different prices, green was the cheapest, I have always used Nissan Coolant, but when we did the turbo I couldn't get any quickly so I got some from Radiator place and have used that since, I know it is Ethylene Glycol but I don't know what the Nissan Coolant was, I can't remember seeing any recipe on the container, maybe there was I just don't remember.

While at SC yesterday the nice lady looked up for an info sheet but we couldn't find concrete details, just general info.
 

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nissan
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Why is the green coolant bad for alloy heads . Still it must be better than tap water
 

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2000 Y61 ZD30DI
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Why is the green coolant bad for alloy heads . Still it must be better than tap water
Can't remember the details, and can't find where I read it, but it has something to do with the acid technology. Inorganic, organic, or hybrid have different traits and react differently to different metals. One thing to keep in mind though is that just because it's green doesn't mean it's the same makeup as all green coolants. For example I know that my brother runs the genuine Toyota coolant on his cruiser which has a copper radiator, but some brands of red coolant will say not to run it in a system that uses a copper radiator. There are obviously different standards between manufacturer.

I read up on the differences when trying to decide which one I'll go for in my new build but have yet to find a concrete answer.

Like you said though, I'm sure any solution is better than tap water. And any corrosion due to the wrong coolant used I presume would be relatively minor/slow. My GU had green coolant running for at least ~300,000km with no negative side effects to the whole system(that I could see).
 

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2003 GUIII - TD27T
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Yep, IAT (Inorganic Acid Tech.) coolants are bad for alloy cooling systems, due to high silicate and phosphate levels, fortunately that stuff is getting harder and harder to find.

for example the green 7yr supercheap coolant is HOAT. safe for alloy and the green 7yr Nulon coolant is also a hybrid organic coolant.
 

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nissan
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Does that one contain Ethylene Glycol?
This is where my confusion lies with coolant varieties and the use of this chemical and it's effect on components, forgetting environmental effects for the sake of this discussion.
i don't think so but is apparently safe for all engines.
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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Does that one contain Ethylene Glycol?
This is where my confusion lies with coolant varieties and the use of this chemical and it's effect on components, forgetting environmental effects for the sake of this discussion.
Yes it contains Glycol as well as organic compounds to increase it's service life.
I ran Nissan coolant for most of the GU's life. Changed to this Nulon coolant when I replaced the water pump, main hoses and the large Ally radiator a couple of years ago.
Raises boiling point to 128°c and is designed to reduce nucleate boiling.

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Discussion Starter #15
Remember folks Nissan don’t make coolant. There is a company out there that makes it for them . Probably nulon or similar .
Your right, that is a given, but It will be made to a formula approved by Nissan. Nissan probably make very few, if any, components they are most likely made by different suppliers under contract to a regulated QA system.
 

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Nissan patrol GU
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Due for a coolant change next service, currently using genuine Nissan coolant at 60/40water, never seen coolant temps over 90 even when towing 1.8 t van or 18 ft boat .. following thread with interest, (Have been told the Nulon long life 100% is very good coolant). There’s also a diesel version in the nulon range also recommended for our ZD30 Di.
 

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I've watched with anticipation because this is a very valid question.
Unfortunately not alot of feedback.

For me coolant has to satisfy a few needs.
Firstly the coolant must not promote cavitation. Reading a blurb on the front of the bottle doesn't really cut it for me. I like to test.
I have an advantage over most as I have a glass tube incorporated into the cooling system to view coolant quality. Alot of coolants foam when put through a pump at temp.
Another way to test it to take some coolant and put it in a bottle and shake the sh#t out of it. If it looks like a coolant milkshake, try something else.
Another prerequisite is availability.
As I travel I don't want to have to carry 10lt + of coolant with me in case of a burst hose ect.

There is a mention of OEM.
Although I'm not 100% sure, but I'm lead to believe that most brand new cars run a coolant that doesn't contain any water. Is this different to the coolant sold through their spare parts? I have a sneaking suspicion it is. I've seen a GM coolant ( NO water ) work very well and i i would suggest other straight coolant from Cummins or Cat would be effective as well.

I personally use a product called RMI-25 mixed with water and behaves very well as examined through the site glass. It also removes scale and rust in the system and if the coolant changes colour it's a notification that your cooling system is contaminated. It also has a few other benefits in reducing aluminium corrosion, lubricating pump seals and not being harmful on rubber hoses among other things.
rmi-25.jpg
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Discussion Starter #18
Unfortunately not a lot of feedback.
I was also expecting more from this seeing as it would be all in one place and not spread around through a hundred other threads, the intent of this was to go into the Archives as an advisory.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Discussion Starter #19
So not a lot of info for the educated and uneducated so I'll add some light reading.


This is the one not recommended for alloy engines after 1984?

PDF, Penrite Race Coolant.

PDF, General Penrite coolants.

PDF, Evans Waterless.

A general paper on 2 coolants.

PDF for Nulon Blue Premium.
 

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nissan
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Not sure on the technical specs or what was run in our Patrol previously, but I did a full flush when I started doing various work on the engine a while ago and filled it with Nulon green. I went with Nulon as I've always been happy with the Nulon red in my motorbike and wouldn't trust a cheap brand of coolant.
I always buy the concentrate and mix myself to 50/50 or 60/40 with demineralised water.
As mentioned earlier, not all coolants are the same, regardless of colour, so always do a full flush before changing brands/types as different coolants can react in bad ways when combined.
 
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