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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey y'all,
Having a few issues with my MK ute SD33t in removing the crank pulley to get to the leaking front seal, after a bit off a search on here and a look at my ute it turns out the nut and the cone on the pulley have been missing for a while :eek: !!

the crank and pulley dont look too stuffed and the key has taken most of the abuse by the looks of it however its now jamming up and not allowing the pulley to slide off the crank.

Have tried lightly tapping on the back of the pulley which has worked to a certain degree but i think its now at the point where its jammed and i'm not sure whether to keep whackin...

Any ideas on how to get it off?? i'm getting desperate, considering undoing the nuts between the pulley and the timing plate and then cutting it off as i dont think a puller will help at this stage.

Any help or ideas much appreciated!!!! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hmmm was hoping i wouldnt have to go down the heating track (dont have oxy set) plus now that i've half pulled it to bits its gunna be a pain to tow anywhere.... any alternatives? (fingers crossed)
 

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nissan patrol
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Can you get a drill in there and drill out the key?
 

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nissan
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From memory the key is a half circle in shape (flat top against the pulley). You might have sucess by pulling the pully out and then using a punch to tap the key back then repeat several times.

Best of luck.
 

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I would not use a drill, you could wreck the crank or pully.

I would use a puller.

And maybe try some heat
 

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nissan
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks guys! great suggestions, will give them a go after work tomorrow , thanks again! :)
 

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nissan mk
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Scarey stuff, I had mine come loose and the nut dropped off it threw oil out everywhere, lucky enough to spot it and buy a new nut ($40) and lock tighted the new one on.
I think the idea would be to drive the pulley on a little more with bronze drift then use puller then repeat. It needs shock and backwards and forwards movement "like getting out of a bog"
Porta gas torch on pulley may help expand it a little. If you stuff the keyway you will need a new crankshaft, bearing gaskets etc etc etc probably need to pull the motor. Someone else had same problem search the posts.
 

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nissan MQ
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I had a worn out keyway and used 'Metal Magic' - epoxy putty/glue for metal. Was recommended to me by a stranger one day down at the 'speed' shop. He was a mechanic and he said he has done this repair with Metal Magic many times and never had an engine come back with problems. Apparently it is the pressure of the bolt on the balancer and crankshaft that stops the balancer from spinning. The Woodruffe key is more of a locator for the TDC mark on the balancer. It does not take very much stress, unless of course the bolt comes loose!

Anyway I have done about 40k or 50k since rebuilding the motor and here has been no problem with the balancer spinning on the shaft as far as I know. So might not need to get a new crankshaft because of a worn keyway.
 

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But if you use the Metal Magic, make sure you slide the balancer on without doing any 'rocking' movement. I made the mistake of 'rocking' as I pushed mine on, and of course this just 'rocked' the little Woodruffe key in its epoxy and broke the bond. Only knew this because I had a problem (no oil thrower fitted) that meant I had to again take off the balancer ( and the front cover!:( ). Then I saw that the key was loose again. I first blamed the epoxy. But after thinking a bit I realized it was my faulty technique!

And to torque up the crankshaft bolt to specification ( quite large torque needed) I actually dropped the sump and wedged a clean piece of timber up beween the side of the crank and the engine block. Maybe there is a quicker way, but putting the gearbox in top gear, full handbrake and wheel chock did not work. I just ended up spinning the motor and 'slipping the clutch' as I used a lever to tighten up the bolt! Worn out clutch maybe? Not sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay!! A minor victory, managed to get the pulley off!! tapping it back and forth on the shaft and finishing it off with the 3 jaw did it... so thanks to you all for your help!!!

As for the actual keyway, as initially thought, it looks like the woodruffe key has taken most of the abuse and the inside keyway in the pulley is slightly knocked about - have photos to put up, just cant find the cable to put them on the computer!~!

In any case a new key, cone and nut have been ordered from nissan ($4.80, $32.00 and $38.00)
will put them all on over the weekend with the help of that metal magic to compensate for the slight amount of play in the keyway.

Only concern is now that the face the seal sits on , (on the pulley) is lipped from years of use and i'm fairly sure it will leak again straight up - what have others done in this case? heard that in the TD42's Nissan changed the design of the seal to allow for wear and tear, do I get it machined down and then try to find a suitable seal to fit or what?

Again, thanks for all your input guys...!!
 

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Would it be too much of a problem if it just weeps a bit of oil? Maybe just use a bit of fine emery to smooth off any sharp/jagged edges that are sticking up. Then just wipe away excess oil that weeps out on a regular basis to stop too much oil from being blown over the motor from the fan. But hopefully it won't leak too much for a long time because of the new seal.

Hopefully the new seal has a lot more rubber to do a pretty good job than the old hard seals that did the damage. They would have been pretty worn out by the time they hardened up, so that would have limited the depth of the damage compared to the size of the new seal.
 

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Sometimes you can instal the new seal at a slightly different depth to the old one so that the sealing position on the crank is in a different place from the worn grooves.
Myles
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I spose it would not be too much of an issue if it was only weeping, though i'd like to avoid having issues with it in future at all if possible!, may try to recess the seal a marginal amount and see if that helps it along - have attached a few pics,
as can be seen the woddruffe key took most of the damage along with part of the pulley keyway.
 

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Good luck with it.

I also used a smear of the Loctite bearing bond compound to give a bit more grip between pulley and crankshaft as I slid it on. Not sure how useful it was. As I said have not had any issues so far.

Hopefully that bearing bond stuff does not cause too much of a headache next time I have to pull the balancer off though! Hopefully my puller is up to it. I might need a few knocks on the side of the pulley, parallel with crankshaft to shatter the bond first, without damaging the balancer of course!
 

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Would anybody know where to get nut and cone from in nz?? Parts aren't very common even Nissan has to import them from Japan. If anyone has the nut and cone and key for sale that would be awesome.
 

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BOAT
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Hi, I have a SD33 in a boat with a bit of a oil leak from the crank shaft pulley seal. What is the tapered spacer that holds the pulley on made of? Also is the spacer used on the TD41 able to be used on the SD33?

Thanks ( I know this is an old discussion but someone may be able to help)
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
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The cone is made of steel, not sure on grade, but its hard.
Part number is the same between L28, SD33, SD33T and TD42.
 
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