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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone

I have been in the process of rebuilding my y60 after having a conrod go through the side of the block. I've fitted a td42t, upgrading from a td42, and am practically finished. One issue that has arisen is that the crank pulley, when fully tightened/pushed hard up against the engine, won't allow the engine to turn over, or even allow it to be barred over.

We have taken the timing case off and everything turns fine. Put the case back on and nothing changes. Put the crank pulley on, but not all the way and can be barred over no worries. Push the pulley on completely and suddenly it's not able to be barred over at all. This is without the nut or cone on.

Any help greatly appreciated.
 

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must be binding somewhere. Should there be a spacer under the pulley? Maybe try spacing it out with a washer or three to see if that helps.
 

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nissangqpatrol
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As far as I know, they are all the same for the TD 4.2's. From your description I would check length from different models. Can only be the crank causing it as you describe.
The crank your trying to use, was it off the old or new motor or is it an after market one?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Andrew1964, as far as I'm aware, I don't believe there should be any spacers. The diagrams I have seen for the td42 and td42t only have the crank gear, followed by the pulley, cone and the nut, working from the motor outwards.

Cokeaddict, the crank is off the td42t, the engine I rebuilt (the "new" one), and as you say, the crank seems to be the issue. However I had another look at it tonight and it seems that it is a little tighter without the cone but as soon as you put the cone in it locks up more. The starter will turn it but it is under quite a lot of strain. Keeping in mind that the nut was not fully tightened.
 

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Sounds to me like either the crank nose is undersize or the pulley is oversize. I'd measure both and check those measurements against the specs. Do you have another pulley you can try fitting up?

Or perhaps, just perhaps, there's excessive end float in the crankshaft? Bit of a long shot, that one.
 

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nissan
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crank shaft pulleys are different from TD42T to TD42.
which are you using?
 

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nissan
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by the way, when you do get the issue sorted, when installing the pulley, before putting the cone on, run the nut on all the way, to wind the pulley ALL! the way back as far as it will go. then take the nut off, put the cone on, and tighten it to the **** house.

A good torque wrench, handbrake and 4th gear and I could get mine up to the spec'd torque without the clutch slipping. This is very very important and I would use loctite too.

if you give the pulley a mm to move, you will have a flogged out keyway and the pulley free spinning on the nose of the crank in no time.

I once made the mistake of installing mine without running the nut on to push it all the way back. not many weeks later, motor out, and that was with loctite and torqued to the spec, the cone wont slide down the crank, but the pulley found enough room to shuffle backwards and flog out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi guys.
Thanks for all the info.

I filed the back of the pulley, the inner and outer and front and back of the cone. All very lightly.
I then did as you said love ke70, and tightened the pulley on, mm by mm until it was on fully and turning fine. Then I put the cone on tightened to make sure it was still right.

I still have to take it off and put locktite on it though.

Also, a quick question but I think the timing is out. Its blowing white smoke and idling very low. Almost to the point of stalling. Any tips on fixing this issue/timing?

Thanks
 

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So you spun the nut up nice and tight against the pulley with no cone?

Did you get the advance of the pump checked with a dual gauge?
 
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