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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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New airbox looks good!! so much still to do on mine! one day i'll get a turbo upgrade :p took me 2 years to get a remap lol
Don't rush into a turbo upgrade :).
 

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nissan
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Discussion Starter #102
Don't rush into a turbo upgrade :).

Well there is the $ issue which i'd rather not fork out some more money for something I dont need at this stage. then there's the install and re-remap. Thirdly, it sort of depends on stuff like if we buy a Van, anything around the 1T mark should be fine for the current set up to handle. Doubt we'll tow more than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #103
PRAISE TO THE FORUM AGAIN!

This time another good link that I would have given up on the job at had if I hadn't read this and had the photos.
https://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/diy-modifications-accessories-40/gu-changing-thermostat-zd30-99074/
2hrs 20min for changing a thermostat. what a pain of a job. Trouble is if you have an increased inlet size then this makes the job harder. In the end i removed 1/2 my inlet and found it easier.
Only problem was I managed to 1/2 destroy my cobra head airbox in the process, so 45min later it was back together....
Since the ECU is away it will have to wait to be purged, better remember to put the heater on for that. Was nicely surprised the coolant that came out seemed very clean.
Also remembered to change a fog light bulb today, hope I changed the correct one, batteries are disconneted so I hope so.
Interestingly, a friend's ZD was having issues with boost bounce after removing his needle valve (remapped CRD). I remembered something about the length of the vac pipe from actuator to controller being a factor. His was very short so I found some vac pipe in the parts bin and we doubled it. Much less bouncing and slightly less turbo whistle. Still nice to drive so that's a win.
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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Will be interesting to see how well the TB48 thermostat works in your CRD. I've been meaning to do this myself for the last couple of months however my back has not allowed me to do it. The fact that its a cow of a job hasn't helped the cause.
Unless AP stuffs up again. You should have the ECU back on Friday. Fingers crossed.

I like shiny stuff
 

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Discussion Starter #106
funny you should mention the back, my back was sore this morning after doing it, the thermostat really is hard on the back. So the tb48 thermostat fits the Di too?
AP better not stuff up and the weather better be good, i want to drive it! its been good tho, forced me to do some other jobs.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
So today I was patient and waited for my ECU to arrive.... still waiting. hopefully tomorrow morning.

So I tidied up some wiring, double check the last work i'd done and turned the heater switch on so I won't forget to do so when i get the ECU back.

I also installed an anderson plug on the bullbar, now I can run the compressor without having to pop the bonnet to connect it. All done properly with fuse 15cm from battery on pos wire.

Since I had the time i played around with where i thought i'd be able to install my slim line sub that's been sitting in my garage unused for 5 years. its a nice little unit that has good output for it's size. Anyway it turns out there's not enough space behind the back seats infront of the draws. So I went looking under the drivers seat and I can fit it there, albeit nothing else will fit under there afterwards, not that it matters. I'll need to trim the ac/heater outlet that goes to the rear seat passenger but thats ok with me. That will probably be a job for first week january.

Still need to change fuel filter... eventually.... and install fire extinguisher properly in the passenger side footwell. Haven't got the Chief of war's permission yet for the encroachment on her space.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
so remapped ECU finally arrived today, much quicker to install than remove.

Firstly, thoughts on remap. very good, lots more low down, nice to be running 21 psi.
Could do with a little more power still but that's just me missing the old 4.8TB

Coolant sits at 83 deg now instead of 90, so the TB48 sender seems to have worked a treat for that.

EGT's are lower still than before and recover slightly faster than before, massive improvement over factory set up. It does make me wonder though how good a remap is for a non modified engine, I dont think i could recommend a remap for someone simply running gauges and manual boost control. Even now with remap done I'd still like EGT's to sit lower and be more stable.

The test hill I've been using that previously would drop from 100 to 85 going up now only drops from 100 to 95, and that was on a hot and humid afternoon. Will try another run to compare.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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EGT can be too low, I would prefer to see EGT sitting around 300-350c when touring at low load, as long as it doesn't exceed 550c for a DI when pushed it is fine, for a CRD maybe 650c. Mine sits on 210-240c touring and I don't like it.
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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EGT can be too low, I would prefer to see EGT sitting around 300-350c when touring at low load, as long as it doesn't exceed 550c for a DI when pushed it is fine, for a CRD maybe 650c. Mine sits on 210-240c touring and I don't like it.
Try disconnecting the fan. My CC fan finally died after all these years so I had to pull it out. Net result is my EGTs are sitting around 50°c higher ATM. Downside is that temperatures don't recover as fast as with the fan. Another item in the list of things I need to replace or modify.

I like shiny stuff
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Try disconnecting the fan. My CC fan finally died after all these years so I had to pull it out. Net result is my EGTs are sitting around 50°c higher ATM. Downside is that temperatures don't recover as fast as with the fan. Another item in the list of things I need to replace or modify.

I like shiny stuff
Fan is disconnected, I'm using the power from that to power the digibooster, but with the 50c switch it hardly ran anyway, fan really only does its work on slow speed stuff like beach or rock crawling.
 

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Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
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I'm sitting around 270-280 while cruising at 100 on the flat. sitting around 230 while driving around town. some of the stuff nissan did makes sense, some of the other stuff....
When used stock turbo/stock sized Adrad TMIC/ECPT remap max boost 21psi:
Egts 375 DegC nom 45% eng load while cruising at 100 on the flat & nom 88 DegC ECT. Would run 500-680 Deg C at higher load conditions.

Different game now procharge h/f turbo / Tube & Fin large TMIC / max B 26psi. Cruise @ 325-350 / loaded say 425-600. Not much difference for cruise EGTs but a good 100 Deg C drop at high end load driving. Cooler has terrific recovery (full time fan), very little town driving.
 

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Really could not imagine that remap alone could cause EMI/RFI . The ECU case would earth thru it mounting cradle frame (if bolted up well not a problem).

Did note that you hooked up some slim line sub speaker, if this is the case, they may be more susceptible to the vehicles emissions(isolate those and check for noise). Check any other electrical installations you have done recently, routing of cables(their placement) and even look at the swirl valve and VNT solenoid resistor install mods to ensure they are well connected. An elimination exercise.
 

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Discussion Starter #116
No, sub hasn't been fitted, was only looking to see where it would fit in future size wise. the EMI is only while the engine is cold, revving over 2500rpm. disappears when coolant reaches around 40deg.

Other than changing the thermostat nothing changed other than the remap.
 

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Discussion Starter #117
So update. first tank of fuel since remap. 14.8/100. this had about 250km of off road and low tyre pressures. also over 2hr of idle while out on the Glasshouse trip. I think that's not bad. Still need to adjust the tillix up a touch, and get used to the boost then learn the new set point for the needle valve. nice to have it in cab.
On the Bruce highway the hill past Nambour, i can accelerate up from 100 to over 110, EGT cap at around 520 without continuing to rise. Water temp sits steady most of the time around 83-84 deg in this 34deg hot weather (54% humidity this afternoon). However it is possible to still see water temps in the 90's (highest was 94 today) so the lower thermostat doesn't stop the top rise it seems.

Thats all for now, see how this next tank goes, might be mainly around town.
 

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Excellent write up possum.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #120
So have acquired a stock standard camper trailer, sidewards fold, 70L water tank. running 3x 33's with patrol stud pattern, 16" rims. solid frame, body needed a little love which has been sorted now. All the canvas got a new application of water proofing and the seams sealed. Very fast to set up and sits well enough behind the patrol, I think it needs some shocks fitted to smooth it out a bit.

Anyway the interesting stuff was, after 650km of driving 95% towing, returned 14.4L/100km.

I'm considering dropping the trailer wheel size back to stock patrol wheels to reduce rolling resistance, 31's is plenty big enough. keeping my eye out for 3 series 4 factory alloys with stock tyres. will reduce a little bit of trailer weight too.

Also considering taking the high lift jack and shovel off the roof, reduce some wind drag.

Anyway, BCF has a special on solar panels, picked up a 160w system for $200, this will make camping off grid much nicer as i dont have to think about keeping the batteries charged while the fridge is running.

PS. Best addition to the shopping list was a 12" fan from RTM shop. helped cool the tent off in the evening when there was no breeze.
 
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