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So update. first tank of fuel since remap. 14.8/100. this had about 250km of off road and low tyre pressures. also over 2hr of idle while out on the Glasshouse trip. I think that's not bad. Still need to adjust the tillix up a touch, and get used to the boost then learn the new set point for the needle valve. nice to have it in cab.
On the Bruce highway the hill past Nambour, i can accelerate up from 100 to over 110, EGT cap at around 520 without continuing to rise. Water temp sits steady most of the time around 83-84 deg in this 34deg hot weather (54% humidity this afternoon). However it is possible to still see water temps in the 90's (highest was 94 today) so the lower thermostat doesn't stop the top rise it seems.

Thats all for now, see how this next tank goes, might be mainly around town.
Mine will sit on 84-85c when driving around town but rise to 86-88c out on the highway, if I push it hard I'll see the odd 90-92c but not often. That hill is a great test strip as is that part of the Bruce up to Gympie, I have tested and documented my Digibooster along there a number of times since fitting it.

I think you will find you have a bit of right foot syndrome, once that wore off I got back in high 10's and low - med 11's, but each time I change something the right foot syndrome hits me a again :).
 

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Discussion Starter #122
Mine will sit on 84-85c when driving around town but rise to 86-88c out on the highway, if I push it hard I'll see the odd 90-92c but not often. That hill is a great test strip as is that part of the Bruce up to Gympie, I have tested and documented my Digibooster along there a number of times since fitting it.

I think you will find you have a bit of right foot syndrome, once that wore off I got back in high 10's and low - med 11's, but each time I change something the right foot syndrome hits me a again :).

I suspect there's something else also going on, I noticed this on the drive up to QLD last year, it was happier sitting around 2100rpm instead of 2000. very tempted to drop back to stock tyre size when these tyres need replacing, reducing the rolling resistance and weight but also increasing RPM slightly. if it wasnt duel locked I'd probably do diff ratios, would be nice to have it sit around 2200rpm at 100.



also turning over drive off at the right time this trip allowing it to sit at 3000rpm uphill kept the auto temp down, water temps were far more stable too, wasn't expecting water temps to be lower despite almost keeping the speed the same for this trip (ambient air temp was higher, so was humidity).
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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I suspect there's something else also going on, I noticed this on the drive up to QLD last year, it was happier sitting around 2100rpm instead of 2000. very tempted to drop back to stock tyre size when these tyres need replacing, reducing the rolling resistance and weight but also increasing RPM slightly. if it wasnt duel locked I'd probably do diff ratios, would be nice to have it sit around 2200rpm at 100.

also turning over drive off at the right time this trip allowing it to sit at 3000rpm uphill kept the auto temp down, water temps were far more stable too, wasn't expecting water temps to be lower despite almost keeping the speed the same for this trip (ambient air temp was higher, so was humidity).
Years ago when I first fitted my CCIC I did a trip to Adelaide for a meetup, on the way home coming up the huge climb out of Adelaide you can do a lot of testing, mines a manual and I had it at 100k in cruise, it was easily pulling up there in 5th but engine and EGT were getting higher, I changed to 4th and re engaged cruise and temps came down, The climb is that long I could do that several times with the same results, so your comment on switching OD off comes as no surprise.

I agree with you about tyres, I made a concious decision to go from the early 265x70x16 to only 265x75x16 and stay with them, 19 years on it has had zero negative impact on the performance of my vehicle in any respect, in fact I believe it has positives.
 

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Discussion Starter #124
Well home again, big trip done down to NSW and then back up via the Scenic Rim. lovely spots for hiking there. was a good workout.
Car towed well, had a few little issues but seems solved now. saw some higher temps towing than what i'd seen before.
Front wheel bearings got re packed before the trip, thanks Josh for the help.
So @geeyoutoo was right. got 14.8/100 towing, so obviously there is some right foot syndrome at play. very happy with that.
This evening pulled up along side a worked TD42 with some go fast bits on it. we were evenly matched the whole way, altho he was having to work more cause of gear changes and my auto just let me be lazy.
 

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Discussion Starter #125
haha, so what i thought was elec interference causing noise coming from the speaker post remap has turned out to be an exhaust manifold leak! only when EGT's are under 180. explains why it only happens when starting up at the start of a drive. Well new exhaust studs have been ordered from Mr Burrows. Hope i don't snap too many...
 

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Discussion Starter #126
So this has been posted by myself on the zd FB page.

"Ok, been reading about CRD fuel rail relief valve. Mine hasn't failed yet but i don't intend to wait until it fails before doing something about it.
options:
1. replace with new stock item
2. replace with shimmed valve
3. completely block valve off.
So i've been told but haven't been able to find any info about the effect of blocking off the valve. supposedly the rail pressure can spike.
To what pressure will it spike to? what level of pressure can the rail cope with spikes? Supposedly it effects pump longevity, how so?
Anyone with actual data or info pls share."

I'm am strongly leaning to completely blocking the relief valve. 2nd option would be to shim, not going to replace with another unit that fails again, well thats the plan anyway.

Thanks To Craig for the 'how to' on replacing exhaust manifold studs, looks like a pain of a job, will put it off until I have to do it now!
 

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Discussion Starter #127
new exhaust studs have arrived... i'l put that job off for a little while I think.

Seems the upgraded relief valve is probably the way to go from Diesel Central.

Replaced the fuel primer, starts better now, so thats 1 issue solved. not bad for $22.

My new grease gun cannot make it through the gap to attach to the front dif/drive shaft nipple. suggestions? is there an adaptor?

Have removed the pink wire maf resistor to compare fuel usage. it was installed prior to remap, and i've done a few tanks of fuel now so have a good idea of what to compare it to. i suspect it wont make a difference but only one way to find out.

Handbrake has been adjusted, wife kept thinking i was trying to murder her every time we stopped when the car would rock a little as the handbrake took up the slack.

Hopefully have some sliders soon!
 

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My new grease gun cannot make it through the gap to attach to the front dif/drive shaft nipple. suggestions? is there an adaptor?
Had a similar issue, shopped around and found a skinnier tip, now my only issue is it doesn't like to let go :rolleyes:.
 

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Dan, some fuel rail pressure actuals (08 CRD) stock IP readings from UltraGuageEM Plus. nominal figures (rpm/psi) mate:

750 / 5000
1000 / 6300
1500 / 8000
2000 / 12500
2500 / 16200
Full load / can get 25000

Note that mine at redline 4600rpm it seems to rev limit(drops away) and pressure drops to around 16000psi?

Some specs given to me some time back (not sure from, maybe Diesel Tech - Lilydale, Vic):
idle nom 750RPM / 4350-5800 psi (30-40MPa)
2000 RPM / 11600-13050psi (80-90MPa)
Full load 23200psi (160MPa)

Doing rollers/tune ECPT this week, on new 4" induction, JT cooler, Procharge stage 3(26psi). She is a real game changer now with the 4" induction. Very pleased.
Around my norm drive doing 11.6l/100ks down from 13.7 l/100ks. Went up the mnts (snowies), so improved low down, eco average for trip 12.7l/100ks down from nom 14l/100ks. Totally different boost behavior( lower at low load cruising 10-14psi)
 

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Discussion Starter #130
thats awesome info thanks JT54!

In other news I've got my needle valve settled, it was making a racket in the cab, have lengthened the vac hose and buried it in the carpet at the back, but it still can be rather noisy (i'm a finicky bastard I know). Anyway I got to do a long drive by myself which resulted in lots of music and the needle valve getting to work properly cause i couldn't hear it, returned 12.1L/100km. thats best ever, pre or post remap!

Currently I've run the tank right down to find out how much I can get out of a tank with this better economy, with the main tank expansion mod (bending the breather up) I can get 760km from the main alone. This is good news, as I've done well over 1600km in the last week, rather tired of driving. Good thing the wife feels like driving the 300km tomorrow so we'll take the i30.

In other news it looks like another house move is on the cards, so in a hurry to get a few mods done prior to disrupting life again..

cosmetically, i've built a partition to stop gear falling in behind the fridge when the slide is used. This has also worked out to become a mount point for the Sub, so more good music is in my future! Will have a on/off switch most likely mounted on the dash that way the sub can be turned off when small back seat passengers object to extra noise.

On the subject of sound, not a drive goes by that i regret installing the split speakers up front. they're just absolutely amazing and the improved quality means even quiet music is understandable.

A dedicated power supply has been run to the rear for an anderson plug to charge the trailer while driving. the solar panels are great for days we're stationary, but if its a big day of driving they don't help much, so an anderson plug in the rear is the plan.

I've talked a little with Chris from sunny coast, and it seems the stock turbo's sweet spot (even with pipe work etc) is around the 16psi mark, as he says, its a heat sink up around 20, so that probably explains my better eco cruising at 15-16psi rather than 18 at 100km/hr.
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Sub is wired in! so pleased and it is always a good thing for the music part of my brain.

Reversing lights on the roof rack have been mounted but not connected for 18 months. Tonight they lit up the driveway for the first time. The sweet thing is they come on automatically in reverse, or from a secondary switch inside the small barn door. switch panel is from Jaycar.

Rude twist of fate, my soldering iron died on the 2nd last join, so its just crimped.
 

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Sub is wired in! so pleased and it is always a good thing for the music part of my brain.

Reversing lights on the roof rack have been mounted but not connected for 18 months. Tonight they lit up the driveway for the first time. The sweet thing is they come on automatically in reverse, or from a secondary switch inside the small barn door. switch panel is from Jaycar.

Rude twist of fate, my soldering iron died on the 2nd last join, so its just crimped. And who doesn't love splicing into a loom to patch some audio cables... its got me tired tonight!
 

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Discussion Starter #134
photos didn't load (user error)

Now i'll have to get organised and install those lights i've been talking about for ages inside the rear draws.
 

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Discussion Starter #135
well 2,500km across country QLD, across to Blackwater then up to Airley and back home. 9 days and plenty of adventure, a little off road and towing all the way. best towing was 13.9 which I was pretty impressed at, worst 15/100. Very happy with that. the electrical projects are almost finished and I was very pleased with the functionality while away.

Took the exhaust studs along incase they needed replacing while away but nursed it along.

Trailer needs new wheel bearing as it spat a seal (grease all over the rim) so that will get some TLC too. Also need to move the spare back so i can open the rear doors properly and access the fridge.
 

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Dan, read thru your thread and looks like U are yet to do remap. Understand remap negates the need for the swirl valve mod.

Interested in the MAF temp sensor pink wire (resistor in series mod). I do not experience a flat spot low down. The EGT drop looks beneficial. Currently run good EGTs with my CRD eng mods, Procharge h/f stage 3(maxB 26psi), improved induction, JT cooler, NADs / manual boost control etc.

From what U understand, would the MAF resister mod provide a gain for all CRD eng modification variants?

Also what exhaust heat wrap product did you use?

John

Hi John,



exhaust wrap ive used on the last 2 patrols ive had were ebay spec. both have worked well and lasted. Dump is the most important to wrap.


I've heard of remaps that you dont need to use the resistors on, and multiple ppl who have had a remap and still benefitted from the resistor mods. Not all remaps are equal and we finally have the proof.
Hi,
What is the exhaust wrap you are talking about? I am soon to fit a new 3” exhaust? Gotta try and get those EGTs down on my 2014 Dx Ute.
Thanks
Craig
 

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@ChadGu

Info: Wrap that I used, same spec, different colour, same supplier and plenty other types available:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WRAP-50MM-X-10M-10-STAINLESS-STEEL-TIES-1022F-TITANIUM-EXHAUST-HEAT/162569312226?epid=10026728500&hash=item25d9e2d7e2:g:5MsAAOSwJihckFtP

Bought 2 rolls. Wrap before installing exhaust sys as is easier. Do dump pipe and continue until past clutch slave cylinder (to reduce heat adjacent to slave).
Thanks Mate,
I’ll do it before I install the new 3”.
I checked out some info about wrapping and ceramic exhausts and the reasons why.
Interesting stuff!
 

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Discussion Starter #140
Wheel bearing was shot in the trailer. definitely rolls easier now, bearing wouldn't spin even after i clean it up, probably lucky we made it home. explains the slightly higher fuel usage for the last day's driving (15/100km but also fair share of hills). That being said tho the trailer would have been 200kg lighter as water tanks were emptied and supplies had been eaten.

Welding was done today by a friend with a nice MIG, amazing how fast good tools can get projects done. I played apprentice as usual and made myself useful and avoided getting any fingers chopped off. Spare tyre on the trailer will sit 150mm further back now. the other bit of good news with that is the jockey wheel can now be moved back so it doesn't impede.

The trailer currently has 285/75/r16 rubber on it, previous owner put brand new micky T's on it. way to heavy and large. Picked up some 265/70/r16's today that are 2/3's used, so much lighter. The trailer is light and these Maxi's will be fine for it. Just have to find a right sized spare now.

And to bring the topic back to the patrol, it settles it, next set of tyres for the troll will be back to stock size, good aggressive pattern but no need for that extra 8% rolling diameter. But that's probably still 40,xxx km away provided they continue to wear well.
 
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