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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i know this should go in the classifieds but i REALLY need another tie rod for the poo. the shop wont do wheel alignment with a very slightly bent tie rod.

plus i cant drive it with the mega death wobble its got!

give us a bell on 0403700643 if you have one

thanks alot
Luke
 

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i might not be right in saying this, but a bent tie rod would cause more toe-in and i couldnt imagine that causing death wobbles.

i could imagine the knock that bent the rod having damaged a ball joint though, i would check them if i were you.

ive seen the dimension for stud to stud for the tie rod in either my gregories or the service manual. even if the rod were bent, just adjust the ends back to the correct dimension and your wheels should be right.

on a similar note, what is the point with a wheel alignment on the MQ, there is nothing to adjust except the toe (via the tie-rod length). camber and caster etc is all fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do you have the stud to stud distance handy? I would love that!!!

Your right in saying the toe in is causing the wobble. I can feel the car tracking on each wheel causing the wobble.

Reason i needed one is because the shop won't align the wheels with a bent arm, and i'm not real confident when it comes to steering geometry and all that jazz that needs to be perfect.

Still would like one!!

Excuse caps (work computer)
 

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Too much toe-in or toe-out will wear the tyres on the outside or inside and can make it a little more responsive to steer.
If you have more than 2" lift you may need a castor wedge under the spring to tilt your "Kingpin" to give you back some positive castor. (you can get the wedges in 1deg or 2 deg from superior engineering) To correct camber you need offset top bushes for swivel hub bearing.
Put it up on stands under the chassis rails and get some one to give the steering wheel some left and right while you hang onto the front wheels one at a time and look for that "slack" feel from backlash that may help pinpoint the problem. (mine turned out to be swivel hub bearing was shot)

Less than 2" lift (not counting body lift here) and you shouldn't need to do anymore than toe-in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Its got 2in springs and 2in shackles so 3in over standard. I would have though excessive toe in would have definitely caused my wobble? But since you guys have beent here done that, i'll have a look at the swivel hubs.
 

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Check the bearings

Havent perhaps dropped a wheel wieght by any chance ???

Check the tyres for tyre seperation,its an age thing,but still happens

Is it death wobbles from standing start and gets worse with speed ???
OR
Is it death wobbles from a speed or at a speed ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Didnt think about a wheel weight....

The wobble comes on at speed, the car is fine up until about 50 then it starts a bit of a wobble which i can power out of but if i maintain speed the wobble turns into the death wobble

EDIT: CHANGED WHEEL BEARINGS LAST NIGHT, SO ITS NOT THEM AS IT HAPPENED AGAIN THIS MORNING
 

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Get the tyres balanced,wont cost what $5 each

How old are the tyres ???
Run ya hands around the tyres and feel for a bulge

Sounds like a tyre issue
Yep tyre issues can come in at a speed then disappear after that speed
My old MQ wagon had a wobble at 90Ks , then went away at 95 and beyond

We found our problem was tyre seperation
Didnt do much damage when it let go
The belt smashed the tailights,tore the rear flare of,scratched the paint
And scared the living Sh*t out of us when it let go

Could also be the shackle pins and bushes
 

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jack up the front, grab the wheel at 12 and 6 oclock and push it back forward. if you get movement, then do the same at 3 and 9. if you get movement there too, then i would suspect wheel bearings, if only move at 12 and 6 then king-pin bearings.

did you tighten the wheel nuts up enough!

could also be broken u-bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The old u bolt aye?? Forgot that trick. I'll have a look tonight. As said before its definitely not bearings as they're about 1km old.

Tyres are unknown age. Only had the car 4 months.

What is tyre seperation? Is it just when the belt lets go?
 

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Sounds like Swivel / king bearings -mine did the same, king bearings fell apart when I pulled them.
 

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Tyre seperation,is when the belt starts to seperate inside

Generally an age thing
So although the tyres can have plenty of tread and look good,they could be had it

If and when ya get the tyres balanced,if you end up with too many wieghts next to each other
The rim will be damaged,look for a replacement rim

Wouldnt a broken u bolt vibrate worse as speed increases ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
went out and bought a set of 33 MTZ's today. WOOHOO!! they look good and hopefully will grip a little better than my AT's.

ANYWAY.. they helped in reducing the wobble i'm getting. so it might have been a tyre problem contributing. however, i did still get the wobbles under heavy braking. i didnt go over about 60kph either.

i did what nerok said and did the 12/6 check then 3/9 check. found no play in 3/9 and very small play in 12/6 direction.. i hope this doesnt mean its the kingpin (still not sure what that is)

also checked the pin to pin distance of the tierod and found is was about 6-7mm shorter than in neroks diagram.

any more thoughts?
 

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I didnt have a lot of 6 - 12 moement when my king / swizel bearing failed.


As I had the wheels apart I also replaced the wheel bearings at the same time.

All up it was around $200.

I ended getting my bits from bursons, as I could return any kits that I didnt use. Plus burson got the bits in within 2 days, and where around the same price as evile bay ( autobarn was a lot dearer)

Depending on the ebay seller you get complete kits including wheel bearings etc, or swivel kits, one side both sided etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
WHEEL ALIGNMENT!!. i did a wheel alignment on the girl yesterday morning and now it points straight! still a bit of tracking going on but i put that down to the 33's.

nearly blew the foofoo tryna turn the tierod though! i dont think that bar has been turned since 1982! i had a pipe wrench on it with about 4 foot of steel hanging on it and she wouldnt move. soaked in crc and mouse milk overnight. (if you havn't heard of mousemilk, go and hear of it. its the best for loosening up old rusted and gunky threads) got on the bar agin in the morning and got it to turn probly took about 1.5 full revolutions of the bar.

job done!
 

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On the wheel alignment thing, I took mine in for one, was 4.1 mm out but the adjustment was seized, so they could not do a thing. took it back today and it was spot on. That the [email protected]#K.
anyway going back next week to see what it reads again.

With your wheel wobble (aka the death shakes) i had done mt king pins and repacked the wheel bearings and still had the shakes. Then put new bearings in and gu locking rings tensioned them up[ to 120ft pnds and did my front u bolts up and low and behold, drove like a new car.

2 shackles require 2 degree caster wedges, if not it may contribute to the shakes.
normal spring lift does not need wedges.
 
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